KidV's 1985 4Runner

[GonOvr]

Also you can check injector pulse with a volt meter. With the meter on volts DC, one lead to battery positive the other to the injector plug. It should pulse between 0v and 12v. This won't fry the wiring since the volt meter is isolating the circuit between the battery and the injector harness.

 

[mikebontoft]

now you did remove the schrader valve from the compression tester tube (if you did it that way) right? I just want to verify that so you don't go on the wrong path. if you didn't, it would just hold the air in like a tire.

if you did though... that's good news.

 

[KidVermicious]

now you did remove the schrader valve from the compression tester tube (if you did it that way) right? I just want to verify that so you don't go on the wrong path. if you didn't, it would just hold the air in like a tire.

if you did though... that's good news.

Easier than that - the tester was two pieces, I unplugged the gauge and plugged in my air. Poof.

More pics!

Fuel filter relocation. I highly recommend this, the stock filter location is garbage and an utter PITA. This required no mods, the hoses will reach. I unfastened an existing bolt on the firewall and bolted the filter down. I'll add a bracket from the other side of the filter to a lower spot in the firewall just to prevent vibration fatigue on the one side.

Four nasty dirty injectors.

And, my next project on this beast. Completely flat at full droop, and a broken leaf to boot.

 

[GonOvr]

The one closest to your thumb wasn't firing.

 

[KidVermicious]

The one closest to your thumb wasn't firing.

Tell me what you see?

 

[GonOvr]

All the injector tips are wet except that one. Unless you wiped that one injector tip off.

 

[KidVermicious]

I didn't wipe any of them off. That may be a trick of the light though, I'm looking at them now and I don't see as much difference as there is in the photo.

Of course, they've had 12 hours to dry, too. I'll have the shop mark that one and we'll see what they say.

 

[KidVermicious]

I'll be really glad when this stops being "KidV's repair thread" and starts being "KidV's build thread".

First, a public safety announcement:

NEVER EVER TRUST A HIGHLIFT

I guess I didn't have it straight up and down, because the bottom kicked out away from the tire. Luckily I have another fender, and I was planning on painting the whole truck a rattlecan grey once I repair the rear fenders anyway, so this is not horrible. Scary, yes. Don't trust the highlift, people, it will eat your face.

I don't know if this engine ground was making the truck run worse, but it sure wasn't making it run any better. I'm much happier with it's 6ga replacement. Once I'm done with the have-to-fix's and can get on the want-to-upgrade's, I'll replace the entire battery cable system.

The original owner thought he was getting more air, I guess. I think he was getting more road spray. Luckily I have a parts truck 20 feet away - having the '86 sitting there has saved me so many trips to the wrecker.

Thermostat plug? Is that what wire I broke here? Disappears into the harness, so I see some splicing in my future. I hate splicing on my harness.

 

[4runnin83]

Dude, sorry about the hi-lift, that's scary ****...... Nice ground btw lol

 

[4Running Daily]

2 months ago i jacked up my 4Runner with my hi-lift. You know how it won't go down without any weight on it? So I began lowering the truck when all of the sudden the jack part of the hi-lift flew down to the ground. I let go of everything and backed away. The jack bar hit my big toe, breaking it. I lost that toe nail and I broke my actual toe. 2 months later I'm fine, but Hi-Lifts are scary.

 

[KidVermicious]

Injectors are cleaned with new rubber and in (dude said #2 didn't even spray, just dribbled), and I'm working to piece back together the upper plenum now.

Reposting this one, anybody know the name of this connector? I need a new one, the wire snapped right at the base and I can't splice it.

It goes here, if that helps:

Also, I thought I was pretty anal about labeling everything I disconnected, but I've got these:

One of them goes here:

But which one? And where does the other one go? Neither is dirty on the inside like it's been disconnected.

 

[GonOvr]

The black one, the green has an offset key so it need not apply.

 

[KidVermicious]

The black one, the green has an offset key so it need not apply.

Damn, Nate, good eye!

 

[GonOvr]

I know its a temp switch for the coolant, whether its for the gauge, idiot light or emissions I don't know. im looking through the re-****ed 1st gen service manual.

 

[KidVermicious]

I know its a temp switch for the coolant, whether its for the gauge, idiot light or emissions I don't know. im looking through the re-****ed 1st gen service manual.

Me too. If you find a page number for it, lemme know.

 

[mikebontoft]

that compression tester is exactly what I was thinking of. yes it disconnects but if you look in the part that screws into the head there SHOULD be a schrader valve in there. if its in the gauge part, were good.

that broken connector, just find a female spade with the plastic cover around it and crimp that onto your wire.

let's see how that engine runs now!

 

[KidVermicious]

that broken connector, just find a female spade with the plastic cover around it and crimp that onto your wire.

let's see how that engine runs now!

The release valve was on the gauge.

The 22RE in my '86 didn't have that connector, somebody had just stripped down that wire and stuck it in there and covered it in some goop. Any idea what that goop was? Some kind of conducting RTV?

 

[mikebontoft]

Ok good to hear. Then your gauge is just crap... which I suspected .

they probably just wrapped the wire around the connector and push silicone on it. fail.

edit: wait, not the release valve. it holds pressure in so you can read what your cranking PSI is.

 

[KidVermicious]

edit: wait, not the release valve. it holds pressure in so you can read what your cranking PSI is.

I'm trying to remember, but I think the gauge wouldn't zero even when I pulled it off the hose, so I'm going to assume that any inline valve was in the gauge body. I wish I'd understood that you'd meant there was another valve inline, though, because now I'm nervous all over again.

Hopefully I'll turn the key tomorrow, and it'll be good news.

 

[mikebontoft]

Damn. Thought I explained it well enough till I just saw your thread being updated and went back to read through it. Forgot that the release valve is just a schrader as well. I've never seen the other one inside the gauge body on any of them before. How far back together is it? I'd rather you test it with everything off than have to tear it down again. Sounds like you're just finishing it up though.

I still think your gauge sucks. One injector was clogged and I remember you posting that ether evened it out a bit. If you had no compression in one cylinder, it wouldn't have done ****. If course it won't run perfect though through your "manual" fuel injection .

best of luck.