KidVermicious
New member
Since you're not going to use that 4.7 case you might as well just send it my way.
I'll send sumthin' your way, all right. :moon:
KidV's 1985 4Runner
- Thread starter KidVermicious
- Start date
I'll send sumthin' your way, all right. :moon:
KidVermicious
New member
I didn't even think about that, you're right, if the motor had been warm those numbers would likely be higher.
The valves are adjustable, yeah, why?
mikebontoft
New member
just thinking maybe the springs are worn or something.. just thinking.
KidVermicious
New member
Could be. I'll be replacing the rocker assembly with the good one from my '86 on general principles anyway.
Rockdawg84
New member
not a bad thought but worn springs only become a factor if you are running high RPM and float a valve. But with adjustable rockers it is possible to over tighten them and keep a valve open. Unfortunately it sounds like bad valve seats or a bent valve, or so much build up that they are not seating properly.
Kid throw that other head on and run it. then get ready for the sweet engine swap.
just my thoughts
KidVermicious
New member
then get ready for the sweet engine swap.
just my thoughts
So frustrating to be putting time and effort into a motor that I'm not even going to have in a year or two, lol. I really wish I was in a place to do my swap right now and be done with it.
mikebontoft
New member
thank god someone to talk to. I'm going crazy here!
I was just throwing something out in hopes that maybe it was it.
go find a 5vz.
I was just throwing something out in hopes that maybe it was it.
go find a 5vz.
KidVermicious
New member
I've seriously considered the 7MGE, 5VZE, and 3RZ. The Supra motor doesn't seem like the install-it-and-forget-it kind of motor I want - I read about suspect heads and cranky timing, and I think I'm going to give it a miss. The 5VZE is a great powerplant, but whichever way you go you need big-money adapters to access transfer case gearing options, and it's a bigger heavier motor than the 22R. I really think the 3RZ is going to be the most reliable, least expensive, and least painful option - I can get a parts truck for under $1000, the swap harness is $600 from ORI if I can't find a local guru who'll charge less, and the motor mounts from ChilKat are $140, and then it'll need a little exhaust work done. And that's it. I won't need to change my fuel system (unless I decide to bolt on a supercharger), it'll bolt up straight up to my existing drivetrain, weigh the same as the 22RE and fit easily in the bay (a bonus when you have giant hands), give me a (minimum) 50% increase over 22RE power, and be just as reliable with the bonus of OBDII. I'm going to budget $2000 for the swap, and if I play my cards right I'll come in well under that, giving me play money to think about an intake, exhaust headers, hotter cam, that kinda stuff.
When I started looking at swaps I laughed at the guys doing the 3RZ. After looking at it, I'm sold. I have seen the light. It'll take a lot to change my mind at this point.
mikebontoft
New member
well that was some bull****. I had a nice essay going on here and my phone just force quitted the browser.
anyway... the newer toyota motors (especially) are reliable as ****. OBDII is great as well.
as far as the wiring harness goes. sit down with diagrams from both cars and a box of crayons. If you need help, you know where to look. I think its worth the extra effort and satisfaction to know exactly what goes where. its also cheaper, at least by $600.
wiring... it really isn't that bad. Earlier last month, I installed a secondary ecu along with a secondary set of injectors and all the other stuff on an 08 Dodge truck. spliced probably 35 wires and it ran great on both fuel systems.
anyway... the newer toyota motors (especially) are reliable as ****. OBDII is great as well.
as far as the wiring harness goes. sit down with diagrams from both cars and a box of crayons. If you need help, you know where to look. I think its worth the extra effort and satisfaction to know exactly what goes where. its also cheaper, at least by $600.
wiring... it really isn't that bad. Earlier last month, I installed a secondary ecu along with a secondary set of injectors and all the other stuff on an 08 Dodge truck. spliced probably 35 wires and it ran great on both fuel systems.
KidVermicious
New member
The wire harness scares me sh!tless. Maybe as I get closer and do more research I'll get more comfortable with the idea. It'd be nice to save the coin, that's for sure!
mikebontoft
New member
pshh that's what we're here for. you gotta start somewhere anyway. Trust me two years ago I knew nothing about electrical. Now I'm, uh, very confident in my work. lol. I'd love to help explain it the best I can and in the event you don't do this immediately, I'd love to help you in person. I assume everyone in the state of Utah lives in west valley now.... I just moved near/around Taylorsville high.
KidVermicious
New member
I'm in Magna. You just moved, or you're going to move? If you're in town this weekend, you need to come drink my beer.
mikebontoft
New member
i used to live in murray... now its right by the jordan river. Price is my school town. hate it here, but good wheeling. not like I've been to better yet...
Hmm that would be a problem. not old enough and I haven't taken the interest anyway. Thanks for the offer though. always nice to wrench on something.
KidVermicious
New member
Assuming the '86 head is good I'll be picking it up from the shop today. Engnbldr top end kit and fresh bolts are in the mail. I'll be pulling the old head and prepping for install today, need to make sure I've got my ducks in a row. I pulled the head on the '86 so I know where the hidden bolts are and such, but I wasn't so concerned with putting things back together what with the hole in the block and all... :lmao:
TDC is with #1 piston up and the timing mark on zero, right? Then zip the timing chain to the sprocket and tie it up to the hood so it doesn't slip the lower gear, matchmark the distributor so I can ball-park the timing... I don't care what the rotor is doing, right, because I'm going to stab it at 12:00 and it'll rotate to where it needs to be?
TDC is with #1 piston up and the timing mark on zero, right? Then zip the timing chain to the sprocket and tie it up to the hood so it doesn't slip the lower gear, matchmark the distributor so I can ball-park the timing... I don't care what the rotor is doing, right, because I'm going to stab it at 12:00 and it'll rotate to where it needs to be?
KidVermicious
New member
Fine then. I'll drink beer and you laugh at me, we'll be like a team or something. :lmao:
mikebontoft
New member
I'm used to that. lol.
very good point sir. I didn't think about holding the chain up. Did that once on a nissan with a bad head. yeah the altima 2.5. much worse than a 22re. I dont wish repair work on that engine to anyone. Its got some nice power though... crazy nissan staff.
very good point sir. I didn't think about holding the chain up. Did that once on a nissan with a bad head. yeah the altima 2.5. much worse than a 22re. I dont wish repair work on that engine to anyone. Its got some nice power though... crazy nissan staff.
KidVermicious
New member
TDC exhaust would be with the timing mark at 180 though, right?
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