KidV's 1985 4Runner

[SV_Dude]

TDC exhaust would be with the timing mark at 180 though, right?

No. Think about the strokes of the engine. The crank will make one full revolution for the intake stroke and another full revolution for the exhaust stroke. If the head is off of the engine, then the exhaust and intake stroke is irrelevant.

When re-installing the head, put the #1 piston to TDC and the pulley timing mark should be at 0* TDC. Install the head as normal then put the cam gear on the end of the cam with the little dot at the 1130 position with the timing chain on the gear. You should be good from there.

I would read over the whole process in the FSM first so you're familiar with the process. Don't be like me and miss a step that will cause you to completely tear down your engine. It will make you feel like a dumb ass.

 

[KidVermicious]

Cover me, I'm going in.

 

[GonOvr]

When its all said and done, you'll be a pro at 22RE's

 

[4Running Daily]

When its all said and done, you'll be a pro at 22RE's

Or he'll be completely sick of it.

 

[KidVermicious]

What do you mean will be?

I'm no Nate. I hate wrenching. I want to drive the damned truck. :lmao:

 

[Hyde802]

Looks like you need a bigger shop... :biggrin2:

 

[KidVermicious]

You're telling me. I normally wrench in the driveway, but weather is coming and I wanted to be out of the wind and the wet.

What is the trick to getting those bolts under the lower plenum without completely taking apart the IACV and airconditioner? I can't even get a hand in there, much less get a socket on a bolt. I know where they are because I've got another plenum to look at, but I'm having a terrible time getting to them.

 

[4runnin83]

You're telling me. I normally wrench in the driveway, but weather is coming and I wanted to be out of the wind and the wet.

What is the trick to getting those bolts under the lower plenum without completely taking apart the IACV and airconditioner? I can't even get a hand in there, much less get a socket on a bolt. I know where they are because I've got another plenum to look at, but I'm having a terrible time getting to them.

Midgets bro

 

[KidVermicious]

Well, I'm baffled. The piston surfaces look good, the walls of the chambers are smooth, the gasket is intact, and I don't see any damage to the valves.

Nate? Mike? What do you guys think?

The good news is, I may not have to deal with a rear main - there's oil all down the back of the block and on top of the bell housing. I think the valve cover wasn't sealed.

 

[Hyde802]

Can you see crosshatching in the cylinder walls?

 

[mikebontoft]

Kevin, damage isn't always visible. make sure you have plugs in that head and (it appears the cam is off) fill up those chambers with some ATF. see if any have drained after awhile.

edit: it may just be the light... and I'm not familiar with a 22re head but it appears the intake valves are a little bent? they appear to have a gap at one end and the other they are almost recessed into the seat.

 

[GonOvr]

You wont see it, its a burnt valve. If you were to pull the valve out you would see that the face and seat were probably garbage.

Its hard to see in the pictures, make sure there were no burn outs in the headgasket. Look for burn marks on the top and bottom of the head gasket between the oil galley holes and cylinder hole. Its looks to either be a popped headgasket to the oil side or burnt valve face and seat.

 

[mikebontoft]

I didn't catch any black streaks down the gasket in the photo anyway. Is number two the second one from the right?

edit: just one thought on the compression test... you held the throttle open and had a charged battery right?

 

[GonOvr]

Yea just compare the exhaust and intake studs to get orientation. The head gasket has 2 sides though.

Either way I truly believe you will get it fixed with what youre doin.

 

[KidVermicious]

Can you see crosshatching in the cylinder walls?

Yes, 35 degrees (see? I told you I was taking notes )

Kevin, damage isn't always visible. make sure you have plugs in that head and (it appears the cam is off) fill up those chambers with some ATF. see if any have drained after awhile.

edit: it may just be the light... and I'm not familiar with a 22re head but it appears the intake valves are a little bent? they appear to have a gap at one end and the other they are almost recessed into the seat.

Hm. I think I pitched my old plugs, and I'm putting my new ones in the new head this morning. Maybe I'll go grab some autolites or something.

You wont see it, its a burnt valve. If you were to pull the valve out you would see that the face and seat were probably garbage.

Its hard to see in the pictures, make sure there were no burn outs in the headgasket. Look for burn marks on the top and bottom of the head gasket between the oil galley holes and cylinder hole. Its looks to either be a popped headgasket to the oil side or burnt valve face and seat.

The gasket looks good to me, there's no indication of anything moving between the holes on either side, and I looked close.

I hope to get everything put back together tomorrow, once I do I tear down this old head and see what I can find.

 

[mikebontoft]

yeah I figured it out. took me a minute but we do get to see both sides. I used the big hole near #4 since I know the head goes around the cam gear.

You can see #2 was running weird. look at the intake valve. What's all those light spots? pitting or what?

edit: 35 degrees is... wrong

either way the other head should do it. remove your intake valves off this head. clean it up a bit and put (I do this on a clean valve so I dunno how this works lol) sharpie on it. Maybe white out is better for this one. Put the valve back in just by hand and rotate it. If you feel like it anyway. Just to see how much valve seat to face contact there is.

 

[KidVermicious]

I didn't catch any black streaks down the gasket in the photo anyway. Is number two the second one from the right?

edit: just one thought on the compression test... you held the throttle open and had a charged battery right?

Yeah, second from the right.

Throttle open? No, what purpose would that serve?

 

[KidVermicious]

35 degrees is wrong? Dammit!

 

[mikebontoft]

edited my last post as well....

No throttle open? that's why you had low readings in the other cylinders. Engine can't compress any air if it can't get any. Same reason engines will have lower compression at a higher altitude.

you're off by 10 degrees 45*

 

[4Running Daily]

You and SV Dude just deny logic. "The 22RE is the most reliable engine in the world except SV Dude and Kid V's."