KidV's 1985 4Runner

slacker said:
unless , your going to "trail test " our products :)



.
Click to expand...

Was that an offer of a sponsorship? :pimp: I'd be happy to plaster your company name all over my truck...

ToyoTech said:
nice trips and carnage. i run my BFG AT at 15psi during the summer. most the guys i know with mud like you have, run 10psi. you should air down more next time since the max of those tires are like 35?
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I've tried 12 PSI, but I felt like I had too much deformation. I'm not afraid to back off or go around an obstacle, and at 18 I'm not in near as much danger of blowing a bead or pinchflatting. Changing a flat takes work, and I hate work, so I don't mind running a conservative PSI. :)

dorton said:
Cool pics.
Click to expand...

Thanks!
 
KidVermicious said:
I've tried 12 PSI, but I felt like I had too much deformation. I'm not afraid to back off or go around an obstacle, and at 18 I'm not in near as much danger of blowing a bead or pinchflatting. Changing a flat takes work, and I hate work, so I don't mind running a conservative PSI. :)
Click to expand...

While I'm not sure about the pizza cutters, I run 10 PSI on mine (35x12.5) with no fear. I used to run 18 like you for the same reason till I just randomly tried 10 one day. It makes a HUGE difference when rock crawling. On highway or just pavement in general, I do run 25.
 
IMAG0952_zps4efac26e.jpg~original


IMAG0953_zps50c70ad2.jpg~original


Honest, officer, they're factory. Look, they even say Toyota on them, of course they're stock.
 
so glad we don't have mud flap laws here in co....
awesome pics, looks like you wheeled it pretty hard and should be proud! i'm with Footofgod on the air pressure, i run 8-10 psi on the trail and have never de-beaded a tire, makes a lot of difference on traction! prob can't go that low with the narrower tires you have, but just food for thought.
 
Awesome shots man...jealous!

Hey...I suck wth metric sizes...your tires look roughly like 33x10.5...that about right?
 
liveoffroad said:
so glad we don't have mud flap laws here in co....
awesome pics, looks like you wheeled it pretty hard and should be proud! i'm with Footofgod on the air pressure, i run 8-10 psi on the trail and have never de-beaded a tire, makes a lot of difference on traction! prob can't go that low with the narrower tires you have, but just food for thought.
Click to expand...

I'm jealous of your lax safety laws. They're crazy-strict over here.

Lunch-Box said:
Awesome shots man...jealous!

Hey...I suck wth metric sizes...your tires look roughly like 33x10.5...that about right?
Click to expand...

33x10, roughly. I can't convert them in my head either, I use this link: Tire Size Converter
 
I've got the "other truck" mostly torn down, and I was going to pull the core support this morning and see if I could straighten it out, but the Bastard started making a grinding sound when I turn sharply on the way home just now, so I guess I know what I'm doing today.

Edit - Somehow I lost the nut on the power steering pulley, must not have torqued it. The grinding sound was the pulley rattling on the spindle. Robbed the nut off the other truck and I'm back in business.
 
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KidVermicious said:
I've tried 12 PSI, but I felt like I had too much deformation. I'm not afraid to back off or go around an obstacle, and at 18 I'm not in near as much danger of blowing a bead or pinchflatting. Changing a flat takes work, and I hate work, so I don't mind running a conservative PSI. :)
Click to expand...

i believe you'd be fine running those at 10 or 12. back when my cj had radials (33x10.5 swampers), i ran those at 6 or 7 off-road, and at 12 to 14 on-road. granted, the cj weighs less than the 4r, but i never had an issue.

i switched to bias ply tires on the cj (34x10.5 LTBs), and consistently ran them at 3 to 4 psi off-road, and 10 to 12 on-road. i put over 30K miles on them, so they worked well. never lost a bead. that low psi, sidewall strength is one clear advantage of the bias tire over radials for wheeling. better traction in new england rocks, too, since the tire molds to the obstacle. no beadlocks, either.

i've now got a set of 34x9 swamper bias for the cj. i like the narrow tread, tall, skinny tires. i've had them at 3 psi for wheeling. seem to like that. i've got about 100K miles on the cj since i've owned it. amc got the engine right. that 258 is a damn good motor. plenty of low end torque, 7 main bearings. and the valvetrain is noisier than the 22re, and has been as long as i've owned it.

wally
 
I couldn't find the high heat JB Weld locally, so I ordered a bucket of Thermosteel off Amazon. The stuff is supposed to be good up to 2400 F., and get stronger with heat, so I'm hoping it'll work out fine.

In the process of fixing that stud though, I stumbled on the real reason for my exhaust leak. The exhaust ports on the head have the teardrop shape, but the flange mating surface on the header appears to have been designed for the earlier round style. There's a gap where exhaust is flowing out pretty freely:

IMAG0962_zpsbab701b9.jpg~original


IMAG0964_zps3d16d59b.jpg~original


Gotta find somebody who welds stainless to fill that gap with weld for me. I really don't want to take it into a shop, I'm betting they'll charge me an arm and a leg.
 
The exhaust I built on my truck is stainless. Doesn't necessarily mean I used compatible filler metal, but it's not gonna leak any time soon.
 
It's so pretty.

08-07-13_2005_zps82d11237.jpg~original


He did a really good job, too. Nice and clean, and he surfaced it too, I'm stoked. Got the header back on with a clean gasket, and my redneck JB Welded stud appears to be holding, so I get to move on! On today's agenda, I want to put on my longer front shackles, do a bunch more pounding and grinding on the pinch weld, and see if I can slip a little longer bumpstop in front.
 
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