KidV's 1985 4Runner

[KidVermicious]

Somebody backstop me on this - with the crank at 0, cam index at 0, first piston on the top, both front rockers loose and test port jumpered, I can't get the timing closer than 12* and the truck runs like crap. I've restabbed the dist three times now, I'm sure it's right.

This pretty much has to be the timing chain off a tooth, right? Or am I missing something?

 

[BoatRacer]

These might be dumb questions, but:
Why have the rockers loose?
Is the #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke? An easy way to check this is with the spark plug removed, place your finger in the hole and turn the engine over (with the coil un-plugged) until you feel the pressure trying to force it out, then rotate the crank to the 0 mark and stab the dizzy in with the rotor pointing at the #1 plug wire on the cap.

 

[02SE]

The 22R-E specs aligning the timing marks at 5° BTDC. So set the marks at that before installing the dist. With the loose rockers it sounds like you're at TDC, and not 180° out. Assuming the valves are properly adjusted.

When installing the Dist., take the cap off but leave the rotor in place. With the elongated dist. mounting hole roughly centered on the hold-down bolt hole, and the rotor pointing straight up at 12 o'clock, slide the dist into place. The rotor will rotate counter-clockwise when you do this. When installed, it should be pointing at roughly 10:30. Take the rotor off and look at the reluctor ( the 4 pointed star shaped thing just below the rotor on the shaft)and line up the point closest to the pick up coil by turning the distributor, until it is directly lined up with the center of the pick up coil. Then install the mounting bolt.

With the cap installed, No. 1 should line up with the rotor. Firing order is 1-3-4-2

 

[KidVermicious]

That's a good tip on the reluctor, thanks! That's the sort of thing I never would have thought of.

So here's where I'm at. Motor at 5 btdc on the compression stroke, verified by checking the front rockers. The cam gear is synced correctly with the crank pulley, verified by checking the position of the index hole, which lines up also at -5. Stabbed the dist at 12:00, and it rotates back too far. Here's a pic - even with the dist turned as far counterclockwise as it will go, I cannot line up the pickup and the reluctor.

So now I'm really confused. I don't think the chain is off a tooth now, or the cam and crank pulley should be out of sync. And even with no chain at all I should still be able to stab the dist on the cam gear and get it to line up. WTF, over.

 

[KidVermicious]

Oh, and to add insult to injury I drained the battery cranking the truck, then discovered my charger is dead in the water. Yay! I wanted a better charger anyway.

 

[mikebontoft]

Stab it in a different spot til it lines up.

 

[Rockdawg84]

That's a good tip on the reluctor, thanks! That's the sort of thing I never would have thought of.

So here's where I'm at. Motor at 5 btdc on the compression stroke, verified by checking the front rockers. The cam gear is synced correctly with the crank pulley, verified by checking the position of the index hole, which lines up also at -5. Stabbed the dist at 12:00, and it rotates back too far. Here's a pic - even with the dist turned as far counterclockwise as it will go, I cannot line up the pickup and the reluctor.

So now I'm really confused. I don't think the chain is off a tooth now, or the cam and crank pulley should be out of sync. And even with no chain at all I should still be able to stab the dist on the cam gear and get it to line up. WTF, over.

I would say that you need to stab it counter clockwise one tooth about 11:30. the reluctor should line up then put the bolt hole center of the sweep and I bet your reluctor and pickup are really close.

Stab it in a different spot til it lines up.

x2

 

[KidVermicious]

So, the TPS was out of adjustment. I ohmed it before I put it on the new motor, and then I forgot to dial it in. The ECU won't cut timing advance when you jump the test port unless it likes what it sees from the TPS I guess.

There's still something funny because I can't dial it back farther than 8 degrees, but I'm fine with that. I normally set it about 10 degrees anyway.

 

[KidVermicious]

Great googly moogly but Skittles is a slug. This motor is a dog, feels like I'm driving an automatic again. It's making rude noises when it's warm too, and the oil pressure is low. I think it's got bearing issues. I also think I don't care, because I got the green light to sell some stock to fund a new motor build! Yay! Should have just done this in the first place instead of half-assing an unknown used motor. Lesson learned.

So I need to get busy tearing down the old block. The head gasket was about to pop, which is probably where my coolant was going - I shot some pics to Ted at engnbldr, he's thinking hot spots on the block caused the separation, so I'll have the machine shop make extra sure the oil and coolant passages are clear after they tank it. I'm budgeting $1500-$1600 for the new build, but $450 of that is going to an engnbldr RV head :reddance:. I'm really hoping that intake mods plus the RV head/260 cam and Thorley header will get me close to 150hp.

I thought about a Raptor longblock because their price is really tempting compared to other shops "stock plus" motors, but there just aren't any reviews on them out there and I don't want to risk it. I'll do the work myself, with maybe a little help from [MENTION=86948]mikebontoft[/MENTION] when it comes time to do the bearings and pistons and that so I don't screw it up. What can I bribe you with, Mike? :yo:

Three months to Moab!

 

[Hyde802]

I'm budgeting $1500-$1600 for the new build, but $450 of that is going to an engnbldr RV head :reddance:.

You could have that into a 3rz and have 150 hp with room for more!

When 3.0s go and the person wants to rebuild it rather than drop in a 3.4, and we all rag on them.. this is what your doing with the 22re. haha.

 

[KidVermicious]

You could have that into a 3rz and have 150 hp with room for more!

Find me one! Completely totalled trucks are going for the long side of two grand around here, and then I'd still have to drop another thousand or so on rebuilding that motor and getting the rest of the conversion parts. I'd prefer the 3RZ, but unless I find a donor at a reasonable price in the near future, it's not gonna happen.

 

[brifri01]

You probably are already will get the block bored but that is one thing I should've done. Now i got blow by a piston slap.

Also get the timing cover decked to match your block height. or you'll you will also have a oil leak.

 

[4Running Daily]

Any engine nicknamed skittle is just a disaster waiting to happen.
Good luck with the rebuild! I'm looking into my options right now too actually.

 

[mikebontoft]

Lol not funny at all. Damn. Sorry Kevin. Round... 4? 5?

Why rebuild a 3RZ though? Peace of mind maybe.. but why.

Why not a 3.4.

 

[ChildrenOfBodom]

Turbo 3RZ!

 

[KidVermicious]

Lol not funny at all. Damn. Sorry Kevin. Round... 4? 5?

Why rebuild a 3RZ though? Peace of mind maybe.. but why.

Why not a 3.4.

Yes peace of mind. I think it's established at this point that I don't have the best of luck with motors, and I need to be done ****ing around with them. With my track record, putting a used 3RZ in without rebuilding it first is just asking to spend next winter ****ing around with motor trouble too. No more half-assing, I'm doing it right this time. Whatever goes in (probably another 22RE) is going to be good as new when I close that hood.

The 5VZE is a great motor, but takes a lot more money and work to put one in a 22RE truck than just plopping it into a 3VZE truck. The 3RZ bolts right up to my drivetrain the same way the 5VZE bolts up to the R150.

There's a fella here selling a 5VZE with rebuilt automatic and dual 2.28s on the back for $3000. If it was a 5speed and didn't have the front driveshaft on the wrong side, I'd be all over it.

Turbo 3RZ!

:droool:

Twinturbo or a supercharger would be even better. And while I'm dreaming, can I have a Mark IV to go with it? out:

 

[mikebontoft]

let's just give up and buy Jeeps. at least the repairs will be constant without blown engines.

 

[KidVermicious]

Found a 3RZ. It's 3 hours away, and just the motor, no bellhousing or harness or ECU. Fella wants $800 for it. **** me runnin'.

let's just give up and buy Jeeps

:wow2:

Kiss your mother with that mouth?

 

[mikebontoft]

no. No I don't.

 

[Hyde802]

DDDAAAUUUMM 800 bones! Better come with a reach around.