KO2 vs Big O Bigfoot

[glax]

I know everyone on here loves the KO2 and I am pretty sure that is what I am going to get for my '15 SR5 Premium.
I just went in to Big O and asked about the KO2's and they were trying to talk me out of them.
They were saying a 10ply was too much for my truck unless i was towing a lot. I assume the 10ply is the "E" rated tire? I asked about the "C" rated and was told that that model was 6ply and would be better but still too much.
I live in the mountain of central Colorado. I want a tire for year round driving. I am in the snow a lot in the winter. The summer is a lot of forrest service access road to river and hiking trails, so off-road driving, but nothing serious. In between that is highway speeds on I-70.

They were trying to push the Big O Big Foot A/T (4Ply) saying that I will have a much harder ride with the KO2 and will feel every little bump in the road when on pavement.
Do I stick with the KO2 "c"? or look at something else?

Thoughts???? Thanks everyone!!

 

[ST1FLER]

10 ply works just fine fine.... they get a kick back for selling that crap

 

[USMCRUNNER]

You'll be fine with the E rated. Not sure what kind of pricing they gave you but I like going through discount tire. I got some quotes from Big O Tire when I was living in Missouri and they where very high. Wanted 400 a tire for 285 MTRS. I laughed and walked right the door. I ended up going through discount tire direct and got duratracs. Had my local yota dealer slap them on when UPS dropped them off.

 

[Magnetic4R]

KO are perfectly fine for dd, either C or E. You can run lower psi if needed. There's a sales going on at 4wheelparts. Someone posted the other day.

 

[gm350reratliff]

My load range C KO2's ride very smooth. As smooth or smoother than the P series Hankooks they replaced. I've had a couple sets of Big-O's many years ago and other than price, they weren't very impressive. IIRC, one set had a bunch of flats and the other didn't last very long. I'd choose the KO2 any day over Big-o's unless I needed cheap tires for a ranch truck.

 

[jbjones85]

I have the ko'2 on mine and have no complaints, i'm sure they would recommend their tire as they have more of a margin/kickback on them.

 

[jicko]

I know everyone on here loves the KO2 and I am pretty sure that is what I am going to get for my '15 SR5 Premium.
I just went in to Big O and asked about the KO2's and they were trying to talk me out of them.
They were saying a 10ply was too much for my truck unless i was towing a lot. I assume the 10ply is the "E" rated tire? I asked about the "C" rated and was told that that model was 6ply and would be better but still too much.
I live in the mountain of central Colorado. I want a tire for year round driving. I am in the snow a lot in the winter. The summer is a lot of forrest service access road to river and hiking trails, so off-road driving, but nothing serious. In between that is highway speeds on I-70.

They were trying to push the Big O Big Foot A/T (4Ply) saying that I will have a much harder ride with the KO2 and will feel every little bump in the road when on pavement.
Do I stick with the KO2 "c"? or look at something else?

Thoughts???? Thanks everyone!!

Lots of incorrect info from this place, just walk away!!

KO2 don't *really* have 10-ply.... LOL..... just a rating... and it is not really a "towing specific" tire!

KO2 is an aggressive all-terrain tire:
All-Terrain T/A KO2 | BFGoodrich Tires

Basically, IMO, KO2 @ LoadRange C is a great choice for our trucks, for on/off road, for summer/winter. I think BFG really got it right this time (hopefully it won't go south when we got some serious mileages on these tires). These KO2s are very smooth, minimal road noise increase (if any), minimal MPG hit (if any; unless you are going with different sizes).

 

[JB.]

I
I live in the mountain of central Colorado. I want a tire for year round driving. I am in the snow a lot in the winter. The summer is a lot of forrest service access road to river and hiking trails, so off-road driving, but nothing serious. In between that is highway speeds on I-70.

They were trying to push the Big O Big Foot A/T (4Ply) saying that I will have a much harder ride with the KO2 and will feel every little bump in the road when on pavement.
Do I stick with the KO2 "c"? or look at something else?

Certainly no reason for you to get the Load E (10 ply rating) tire unless you've settled on the KO2 and that's all that's available. Not due to comfort but weight.

The Load C (6 ply rating) might even be more tire than you need but it's more appropriate for your use case.

 

[vailTRD]

Man i hate dealing with the Big O in Eagle-Vail. I only go to them because thats where I have to take my work truck. If you get a chance, go down to the new Discount Tire in Glenwood. Muuuuch better prices than what you will find at Big O

 

[vail4rnr]

Running 275/70/17 E rated on my 14 TRP for just over a year. No complaints whatsoever. Never had a great experience with Big-O in Eagle Vail. Current BFG's came from Meadow Mountain tire. Dave is a good guy and I have always received great service from them. I try and support local when I can. My .02.

 

[willbgood]

I know everyone on here loves the KO2 and I am pretty sure that is what I am going to get for my '15 SR5 Premium.
I just went in to Big O and asked about the KO2's and they were trying to talk me out of them.
They were saying a 10ply was too much for my truck unless i was towing a lot. I assume the 10ply is the "E" rated tire? I asked about the "C" rated and was told that that model was 6ply and would be better but still too much.
I live in the mountain of central Colorado. I want a tire for year round driving. I am in the snow a lot in the winter. The summer is a lot of forrest service access road to river and hiking trails, so off-road driving, but nothing serious. In between that is highway speeds on I-70.

They were trying to push the Big O Big Foot A/T (4Ply) saying that I will have a much harder ride with the KO2 and will feel every little bump in the road when on pavement.
Do I stick with the KO2 "c"? or look at something else?

Thoughts???? Thanks everyone!!

I have been the big foot for several years, actually from first gen to their current. I find the warranty to be really good at my dealership, but I can not speak for others. I do know they have nationwide warranty and I used it once, but they would only do one tire.

When I got home I went to my local store and they measured the others and said that won't work and for about 300, they replaced all four. I have always been credited well for what's left on the tire. My local store has never question any warranty issue, including one tire that for some reason kept going out of balance,(it happens). They simply tried for a two weeks, three visits by me, and pulled tire and the one opposite to be sure, and put on a knew ones. I have no problem with because I know it even happens in NASCAR.

The only problem I have ever had was they picked up stones, and first twenty miles or so on pavement the stone coming loose or clicking was annoying. The current tire does not have this problem and sheds quite well.

I towed a fifth wheel all across the use on those tires and big o trailer tires with out a problem.

I have had one other problem, and that was a young salesman, on my guys day off, who insisted I needed e rated tires for off-roading because they had ten plys. I left and came back the next day and my guy never said anything about e rated at all, he recommended the c. When I told him about the young salesmen, he was called over and schooled about ply ratings, verse plys and why I did not want or need an e rated tire. Which I already knew...

 

[MNBighead]

Don't let the fact that everyone on this forum loves BFG KO2's and raves about them make your decision for you. The "E" rated tires are way overkill for 99% of the driving the average person does on a daily basis. They are way too stiff, people just don't want to admit it. People buy KO2's simply for the looks, even though they will justify purchasing them since they "go camping" or "fishing in remote areas", "hunting in the back woods", etc. Truth is the ride is much better with a "P" rated tire or even "c" rated. Check out tires such as Firestone destination AT, Cooper AT3, Nitto grapplers, Toyo, etc. They ride so much better and perform just as well. Don't make a $1000 mistake just because everyone on the forum has KO2's and the obligatory TRD rims. If you drive off road in the desert all day or climb rocky mountain trails to get to work, then by all means get some "E" rated 10 ply tires.

 

[KidVermicious]

I know everyone on here loves the KO2 and I am pretty sure that is what I am going to get for my '15 SR5 Premium.
I just went in to Big O and asked about the KO2's and they were trying to talk me out of them.
They were saying a 10ply was too much for my truck unless i was towing a lot. I assume the 10ply is the "E" rated tire? I asked about the "C" rated and was told that that model was 6ply and would be better but still too much.
I live in the mountain of central Colorado. I want a tire for year round driving. I am in the snow a lot in the winter. The summer is a lot of forrest service access road to river and hiking trails, so off-road driving, but nothing serious. In between that is highway speeds on I-70.

They were trying to push the Big O Big Foot A/T (4Ply) saying that I will have a much harder ride with the KO2 and will feel every little bump in the road when on pavement.
Do I stick with the KO2 "c"? or look at something else?

Thoughts???? Thanks everyone!!

My first "offroad" tire was a P rated Bigfoot. Seemed to be decent traction, but after the third pinch flat I got rid of them and went to an LT tire with decent sidewalls. The warranty on the tires was great, I got a new tire with no questions asked each time, but I can't have a wimpy tire on my truck, not where I go.

P rated tires are for cars. If you treat your 4Runner like a car and rarely see dirt, it'll be fine. If you ever air down, if you ever crawl boulders and ruts, if you ever see off pavement surfaces with sharp gravel or protruding roots/branches, you really want an LT tire, E is best but they don't make every tire with every load rating so get what you can find. And don't listen to the mall-crawling ninnies telling you about "ride quality". You have a truck. It handles and rides like a truck. The difference between P rated and LT tires on a 4Runner is minimal and even if it wasn't the added peace of mind from running a trustworthy tire is worth the added vibrations.

Don't listen to the Big O drone, he's getting pressured to sell the house brand and he's used to talking to mall crawlers. It comes down to this - if you need an all-terrain tire, you really need something with a sturdier sidewall than a P rating.

 

[willbgood]

Don't let the fact that everyone on this forum loves BFG KO2's and raves about them make your decision for you. The "E" rated tires are way overkill for 99% of the driving the average person does on a daily basis. They are way too stiff, people just don't want to admit it. People buy KO2's simply for the looks, even though they will justify purchasing them since they "go camping" or "fishing in remote areas", "hunting in the back woods", etc. Truth is the ride is much better with a "P" rated tire or even "c" rated. Check out tires such as Firestone destination AT, Cooper AT3, Nitto grapplers, Toyo, etc. They ride so much better and perform just as well. Don't make a $1000 mistake just because everyone on the forum has KO2's and the obligatory TRD rims. If you drive off road in the desert all day or climb rocky mountain trails to get to work, then by all means get some "E" rated 10 ply tires.

But realize that the 10 ply rating offers no more or less resistance to puncture that the c rated tires, ply rating is actually a weight rating and Toyota are to light for e, Unless you drive 70 in the desert on washboards, they are overkill. or load several tons. e are not any better than the c rated for our light duty vehicles.

 

[willbgood]

My first "offroad" tire was a P rated Bigfoot. Seemed to be decent traction, but after the third pinch flat I got rid of them and went to an LT tire with decent sidewalls. The warranty on the tires was great, I got a new tire with no questions asked each time, but I can't have a wimpy tire on my truck, not where I go.

P rated tires are for cars. If you treat your 4Runner like a car and rarely see dirt, it'll be fine. If you ever air down, if you ever crawl boulders and ruts, if you ever see off pavement surfaces with sharp gravel or protruding roots/branches, you really want an LT tire, E is best but they don't make every tire with every load rating so get what you can find. And don't listen to the mall-crawling ninnies telling you about "ride quality". You have a truck. It handles and rides like a truck. The difference between P rated and LT tires on a 4Runner is minimal and even if it wasn't the added peace of mind from running a trustworthy tire is worth the added vibrations.

Don't listen to the Big O drone, he's getting pressured to sell the house brand and he's used to talking to mall crawlers. It comes down to this - if you need an all-terrain tire, you really need something with a sturdier sidewall than a P rating.

I switched from the wrangler for this very same reason and put big foots on my jeep...never had this problem again after thousands of mile in our Rubicon, with an express lift...but the lift, well that's another story and after several years I learned to hate jeeps...and returned to Toyota repenting and returning to my life long loyalty.

 

[KidVermicious]

e are not any better than the c rated for our light duty vehicles.

Huh?

A "ten ply" or E rated tire normally doesn't actually have ten plies anymore, but it's got a sidewall as sturdy as if it did have ten normal plies. That's intended by the manufacturer to carry heavier loads, but it also translates to better protection against sidewall damage and pinch flats. In that respect, an E rated tire is definitely better than a C rated tire, and both are exponentially better than a P tire.

 

[willbgood]

Huh?

A "ten ply" or E rated tire normally doesn't actually have ten plies anymore, but it's got a sidewall as sturdy as if it did have ten normal plies. That's intended by the manufacturer to carry heavier loads, but it also translates to better protection against sidewall damage and pinch flats. In that respect, an E rated tire is definitely better than a C rated tire, and both are exponentially better than a P tire.

I have never seen any real proof of this and the manufacturers say it is not true. Now they may say its not true because they want to limit liability or sell c rated tires, but my thinking is in line with theirs and that is protection in any tire is a factor of the rubber on the side wall, not the load rating or ply rating which are strictly in relation to weight.

Back in the bias ply days this was not the case and plys directly related to puncture resistance and it why many of us who ran farms trucks, off road, hauling cattle and other such weighty items, stayed with bias ply tires until we were priced out of the market, by the cheaper radials as they became the industry standard.

 

[NoDak]

with an express lift...but the lift, well that's another story and after several years I learned to hate jeeps...and returned to Toyota repenting and returning to my life long loyalty.

now that actually got a chuckle out of me

 

[wfo9]

But realize that the 10 ply rating offers no more or less resistance to puncture that the c rated tires, ply rating is actually a weight rating and Toyota are to light for e, Unless you drive 70 in the desert on washboards, they are overkill. or load several tons. e are not any better than the c rated for our light duty vehicles.

This is sort of true... Tires don't come in ply(s) anymore. That was a term from the days before radials, but it has stuck around as an equivalent to the letter load rating even though most DOT tires are not constructed that way anymore.

Most people who offroad their trucks on more than dirt roads are not really looking for puncture resistance, per se. Sharp objects like nails or spikes... are going to get just about any tire. They are mainly looking for sidewall strength and resistance to rips and tears. It just so happens that a higher load rating usually means a stiffer and thicker side wall construction... that is more durable. When you air down and crawl rocks... the sidewalls take a beating.

You typically won't find any C rated tires with a sidewall as strong as an E. They might exists... The wrangler MTRs (a mud terrain tire with pretty rough road manners) have a very strong sidewalls and often come in D rating, but I'm not sure about C.

 

[NoDak]

thanks for more fuel for the fire.

been looking at replacing the oem tires on my 20" 2014 LE. the more research I do, the more I hate these 20's.

I want to go back to the SR5 17's but man its expensive to swap rims and tires at the same time.

been pricing tirerack duratracs and 17 rims for just under $1700.

discount tire is running just over $1700 for the above setup.


I should just hold out until next gen comes out, but ugh its killing me.

edit :forgot to add, been looking at duratracs in P and C load along with KO2 in P and C load.

they are so even in my daily use for snow and very mild off road that it comes down to personal reviews by forum members.