Krypto's 06 2uz, the Sinister Bambi Slayer

Rear Hatch

Right now it's a transitional period while instill have time to research and shop around. Luckily I have a couple of generous friends that will let me di stuff in their garage. Towards the top of the list I can't wait to get rid of the xreas stuff. It's not functioning as it should and is basically set at max ride level which I know will probably work it's way down over time.

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Wondering if you have had any experience with the rear hatch latch. I did install a new switch on the outside of the hatch. I have also replaced the lock actuator. Still wont open. The new part is working. I hooked up a seperate power supply to verify and it is working properly.
So I am not getting a signal from that connection.
Any ideas?
 
Wondering if you have had any experience with the rear hatch latch. I did install a new switch on the outside of the hatch. I have also replaced the lock actuator. Still wont open. The new part is working. I hooked up a seperate power supply to verify and it is working properly.
So I am not getting a signal from that connection.
Any ideas?

theres a handful of threads on the rear hatch that might help you if you google '4th gen 4runner hatch'
 
Agree an thank you. I have looked at those and I have done the suggested fix. New switch and new actuator. It seems as though the signal is not going through. Any thoughts on that?
 
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Don’t mean to hijack the thread. Where did you get that bug deflector? I can’t find one that covers the side of the grill like that.

I’m stoked to see how those LED strips will fit in the headlights. Keep us posted!
 
Don’t mean to hijack the thread. Where did you get that bug deflector? I can’t find one that covers the side of the grill like that.



I’m stoked to see how those LED strips will fit in the headlights. Keep us posted!
Will do. The headlights are going to make a great wintertime project. When I have a couple of days off of work I will tackle it. After shopping I know I will be doing morimoto glass and hid. That's a given. I'll do a halo on the projector glass and I'm really hoping that I can do that angel eye look for turn signals. Drl might get replaced with some of those mini projectors but I've got to rip into the headlight to figure that out. If i can use the stock housings which seem to be better than the aftermarket then this should all be possible.

I also cooked up this crazy idea to plastic weld a 10" speaker ring into the subwoofer box and get a real sub instead of that toy the factory thought was sufficient. It's all concept right now but really it shouldn't be that difficult with a router and a little time.

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Hey I like this too! I was going to monstaliner the lip of the hood. This is a much sleeker solution.

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It’s a bit of a pain to install but it’s great. The front grille comes off then this installs sandwiches between the hood and grille. They provide longer bolts but it’s still a tight fit. I liked that it blacked out the whole front for me.
 
Well suspension is on its way. I felt like I was studying for finals I was reading so much. Hemmed and hawed but I think I'll be happy with the outcome.

BILSTEIN Truck & Off Road - B8 6112 Series Suspension Kit (47-260153)
B12 Spring Kits (36-281824)
BILSTEIN Truck & Off Road - B8 5160 Series Shocks
Trim packers 10mm
Extended brake lines

Since Toyota and Bilstein have been working so closely together on the newer 4runners and Battle Born carries a heavier spring for the front end with the 6112 shocks I pulled the trigger there. I wanted to verify they were a progressive spring setup but I figure the armor will help settle those down a little bit. I'll be doing a full review and tossing in some video on this build as I go along.

Anyone up for a wrenching party in Michigan? I'm going to get this suspension installed post haste so I can get tires installed during the Black Friday deals (assuming I get the suspension in time. I may talk to DT and see if we can work a deal if I don't have them.

I think I'm pretty much settled on the Falken ATW3 255/70r18 but I might go with the Grabber APT in the same size. There's not much price difference and I've been pretty pleased with General Tire in the past. I've been running Grabber AT2 tires for about 8 years and have been impressed with the overall handling on and off road. The snow performance is fantastic.

AutoAnything has a deal on WeatherTech liners currently. I think that rang in at just over $300 for the setup.

@slyfox - thanks and I'm looking forward to the bypass

I'll be working through the switchblade key mod as well but I might put a future twist on it. We shall see.
 
Looks pretty awesome. Nice job on the painting! I should use that for my trailer's hitch. It's getting pretty rusty and could use a clean up. Do you think it will hold the rust at bay for a good while?
 
Looks pretty awesome. Nice job on the painting! I should use that for my trailer's hitch. It's getting pretty rusty and could use a clean up. Do you think it will hold the rust at bay for a good while?
I used it about 8 years ago on my 98 4runner frame. Still looks beautiful down there and its solid too. I tap test it every year since I moved to MI.

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Also on the way are some weather techs and a remote start. Slyfox has shipped out the bypass and I am going to start a key project based on the switchblade style key.

Going to be a busy time here but clearing way for the bumpers to be worked on when I get ready to order them.

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All this talk with no pics. I included a picture of the setup on my 3rd gen for reference.

Starting to work out the retrofit details. Thinking of pulling off a quad projector setup. I drive mostly at night and I like to spot bambi and freeze them off the road rather than on it.

Thinking of going with the nwti open top bumper. I probably won't mount a winch immediately but I like to keep my options open. Rear bumper would be nwti as well. Just unsure of how to do the hitch since it's not included with the original bumper kit. I do tow stuff so this is rather important. I guess I could see how much lower the hitch is from the bumper when I get it done and go from there.

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Look into the Morimoto mini HB LEDs for your hi beam projectors.

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Interesting idea. I'll check it out. I was going to do a twin stage III d2s 5.0. Not totally shot in the head about led lighting yet but that could definitely work and save a ton of cash. Waiting on the black friday deals right now for just about everything else I'm going to try and get done before spring.

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Well it's not a huge update but the weather techs are in and I'm fairly pleased with the fit. 2nd row didn't impress but I was able to shovel it in there. The front definitely fits well though and that's the most important one.

Parts will be pouring in and I'm excited about that. Lots to do and get done.

Incoming:
Slyfox fix
HVAC polarity reversal
UltraGauge
Suspension (sadly hasn't shipped yet)
12 Volt Remote Start

Yet to pull the trigger on:
Headlights/Retrofit
Bumpers (wishing there was a high clearance bumper with a hitch)
Stereo (maybe delayed....depends)
New driver's side seat cover
Timbren rear bumps
Bigger mudflaps
Rubberized undercoating
Internal Frame Coating
Dash cam
Switch panel/aux wiring setup
Tires 255/70/18 (32.1)

Researching:
Bumpers
Retrofit
Aux Wiring
 
Shout out to [MENTION=147171]J-Roc[/MENTION] who pioneered the 2 in 1 fob. I think they improved their quality because this thing feels like the real deal from VW or audi. Borrowed a few along the way during the service and the quality felt the very same. Programming went without a hitch and I'll post up the instructions from the main thread just to help anyone who follows this thread.
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Here is the exact item I bought. It ships from Hong Kong so give it a few weeks. No fancy packaging but it is protected.

ALin1 SWITCHBLADE KEY REMOTE FOR TOYOTA HYQ12BBX CHIP DOT RFID KEYLESS ENTRY FOB | eBay

Before you go try to get the key cut remove the pin and pull the blade. The pin is located right by the 90. Look closely at the key and you will see that it is actually two pieces of metal. I used a very small punch to get it out but a picture nail will work as well. Pop the pin out and you will be able to remove the key blank. Just take the blank it goes in all key machines.


There are two processes you have to do with the flip style key. The first is for the key itself and the second is for the fob.

Key programming. YOU MUST HAVE A MASTER KEY. If your key opens the glove box and trunk.....it is a master.

1. Take the new key and one master key that can start your 4runner(old key) into the 4runner with you and close the driver's door.(immobilizer light should be blinking)

2. Insert old key, remove old key, Insert old key, remove old key,

Insert old key, remove old key, Insert old key, remove old key,

Insert old key (immobilizer light should be off from the first insertion)

3. open and close driver's door six times (immobilizer light should be off)

Step 2 and 3 need to be done in less than 35 seconds(pdf says 35 seconds)

4.remove the old key. (immobilizer light should come on(steady on, not blinking))

5. insert the new key(immobilizer light should be blinking)

Then just sit there and wait, after about one minute the blinking immobilizer light should go off and you're done.


For the fob: This does not require a master fyi.

1. Driver's door open, key removed from ignition switch.

Within 5 seconds:

2. Insert and remove the key from the ignition switch twice.

Within 40 seconds:

3.Close and open driver's door twice.

Insert and remove the key from the ignition switch.

Within 40 seconds:
4.Close and open driver's door twice.
5. Insert the key into the ignition switch and close the driver's door.
6. Switch ignition ON and OFF once to program a remote transmitter code while retaining the original codes or twice to program a remote transmitter code whilst erasing the original codes. Three times to check how many remote transmitters are currently registered or five times to erase all registered codes.

7.Remove key from ignition switch:

System should now lock and unlock vehicle once, twice or five times
depending which mode has been selected. One to four times, slowly, to
indicate number of remote transmitters registered.

Within 40 seconds:
8.Press and hold LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously for 1.5 seconds

Within 3 seconds:
9.Press LOCK button.

System should now lock and unlock vehicle once to confirm registration,
twice to indicate registration has failed.

Within 40 seconds:
10.Repeat button procedure to program remaining remote transmitters.

SIDE NOTE: To exit programming mode: Open driver's door.

SIDE NOTE: A maximum of 4 remote transmitters can be programmed.

Simple as that. This was one of the more satisfying mods I've done and it took me a total of about an hour to accomplish.



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So I had time to get the remote start in today as well as the ultragauge.

Install wasn't too bad. The programming of everything took arguably longer but all in all I am pleased. Also the stock mpg computer is off by 2 or so on the low end according to the ultragauge.

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