Lasfit LEDs - Review

[ElectroBoy]

I don’t know about that, man. I drive a lot at night and see hundreds of car headlights coming at me, one after another.
You can really tell the difference between proper ones and shitty blinding ones. And the shitty ones are increasing.

 

[jp.vegas]

I don’t know about that, man. I drive a lot at night and see hundreds of car headlights coming at me, one after another.
You can really tell the difference between proper ones and shitty blinding ones. And the shitty ones are increasing.

You can’t fix stupid, that’s for sure. All I’m saying is there are ways to make the so-called shitty lights work, and work well, but that’s dependent on the owners giving a shit and the tech being present. I can’t say whether either is true for everyone, just that it’s possible to enjoy more light and not be a dick to others.

Quite frankly I’m tired of the preaching of the sycophants genuflecting on the altar of the “drop in LEDs bad” religion. Some are bad, some aren’t, and the ones that aren’t can be made to work quite well given a little attention. Certainly they work better than the anemic candles the factory shipped with 4runners until this year.

 

[umidkusername]

I just find it funny that image uses a deer. It doesn’t matter what lights I use that deer is still gonna find a way to get hit.


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[jp.vegas]

I just find it funny that image uses a deer. It doesn’t matter what lights I use that deer is still gonna find a way to get hit.


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Now that’s true!

 

[mynameistory]

I'm not really though. The issue is the claim that LEDs in halogen projectors reduce the ability to see down the road far enough. I'm saying that's not necessarily the case since high beams can fulfill that role, and do with no effort in cars that have the ability to automatically switch back and forth. And, the better designed LEDs, those that do a pretty good job ay mimicking an incandescent filament, mounted in projector lights, with the built in physical mechanical cutoff, don't blind oncoming traffic if they're aimed properly.

So the cases where the simulated halogen filament LED in a projector housing are a poor alternative become less and less so every day as more cars are on the road with the proper ways to a) mitigate the offense to others and b) mitigate the issue of the owner of said vehicle not being able to see far enough down the road.

All that said, it does nothing to make the use of an LED bulb in a reflector housing a good choice.

Please read (and re-read) my posts. I am in agreement that projector assemblies with integrated cutoff shields are not creating additional risk of glare. The glare problem was more prevalent with older, reflector based headlights and frankly appalling drop-in LED bulbs (that are even more terrible than examples on sale today).

What does dazzle other drivers, however, is... well, high beams. Which means that their use is limited when facing traffic in the opposite direction. Depending on where you live and drive, that may happen infrequently, or that may happen so often as to make your high beams unusable. I'm still not clear on why high beams existing means that I should stick illegal and unsafe Chinesium LED bulbs in my low beams.

I understand that you may have automatic high beams in your 2020 truck, but this generation is nearing 12 years since its introduction and many of us do not have the newer gizmos, by choice or otherwise. And the discussion of the newest selective beam technology in european OEMs is frankly puzzling. Other drivers enjoying new and precise LED technology doesn't somehow improve our dinosaurs by association, and it doesn't mean that these cheapo bulbs are somehow elevated to OEM levels of safety and usability. This is what I am referring to when I say "sidestepping".

Doing a "pretty good job of mimicking" a halogen filament is actually descriptive of the newer generations of these chintzy bulbs. They're fairly successful at approximating the size and placement of the emitters. The dimension that they're still struggling with is thickness- because they still need power and heat management circuits between the LED chips. If you review this link, you'll actually see that there are so far only (2) LED bulbs that come close to this minute thickness, and therefore retain almost acceptable focus and light distribution patterns if you absolutely insist on LED bulbs (the Hikari Ultron, an Amazon-only brand, and the 2stroke 3.0, an offering from the boutique brand Morimoto). It should also be noted that both are handily beaten by traditional performance halogen and H9 bulbs within the same assemblies.

3rd Gen HID vs LED vs Halogen H11 projector headlights | Tacoma World

The pictures by Lasfit do not inspire confidence, as the distance between the emitters looks to be quite thick -around 3 to 5 times the thickness of a halogen filament.

 

[Axix23]

This. I just replaced my OEM halogens with 2021 OEM LEDs. Which meant I needed to aim them. The dots on the lights were at 40" and I followed the Toyota instructions first (have the cutoff at the same level). They were WAY too high. Light-in-the-face-of-oncoming-traffic high and seeing-the-bald-spot-of-the-guy-in-front-of me high.

So then I ran into [MENTION=208721]mynameistory[/MENTION] and the 2" (lights) comment on another thread that was the same as what [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION] said above. I also found some posts and at least one "professional" site that said above 39" go for 3".

Last night I tried 3" and found it too low so settled on 2" per all the good advice on these forums. I'm going to drive around for a few weeks and see how that feels, as well as check if it's different with a half-full tank (my car was full last night.)

just a suggestion, why didn't you leave the 2021 led headlights at stock level setting from the factory?

 

[Axix23]

my issue with drop in led bulbs for our low beams are how far they shine out and visibility. They look great on a wall but it was horrible at nights.

drop in led bulbs in the fogs are even worse on blinding incoming traffic. they did shine out pretty wide and far tho...


both looks great when just looking at the headlights for the color. The low beams just dont shine out worth a crap. I hate to say it but the halogens lit the roadway better than the drop in's

 

[rageandlove]

just a suggestion, why didn't you leave the 2021 led headlights at stock level setting from the factory?

Because they came off a 2021 TRD Off Road and I drive a 2019 TRD Pro which has a 1" higher front-end lift, so left at factory they would be aimed too high.

 

[mynameistory]

my issue with drop in led bulbs for our low beams are how far they shine out and visibility. They look great on a wall but it was horrible at nights.

drop in led bulbs in the fogs are even worse on blinding incoming traffic. they did shine out pretty wide and far tho...


both looks great when just looking at the headlights for the color. The low beams just dont shine out worth a crap. I hate to say it but the halogens lit the roadway better than the drop in's

If you are looking for a great fog light upgrade, it is better to replace the entire housing with an LED pod. The pods have correct LED optics as part of their design, rather than the drop-in style.

There is a great thread by the same guy on Tacomaworld. The lights reviewed here all meet the SAE J583 standard for road legal use:

The LED SAE J583 Fog Pod & Fog Light Review | Tacoma World

Spoiler alert, the current front runners are all by Diode Dynamics. The SS3 sport, pro, and max all outperform the competition and are priced competitively.

 

[Axix23]

If you are looking for a great fog light upgrade, it is better to replace the entire housing with an LED pod. The pods have correct LED optics as part of their design, rather than the drop-in style.

There is a great thread by the same guy on Tacomaworld. The lights reviewed here all meet the SAE J583 standard for road legal use:

The LED SAE J583 Fog Pod & Fog Light Review | Tacoma World

Spoiler alert, the current front runners are all by Diode Dynamics. The SS3 sport, pro, and max all outperform the competition and are priced competitively.

i am about to start a thread up on a complete 2021 retro fit including headlights and fogs.

 

[Axix23]

Because they came off a 2021 TRD Off Road and I drive a 2019 TRD Pro which has a 1" higher front-end lift, so left at factory they would be aimed too high.

but according to your post, you actually aimed them higher first. because you were matching the halogen pattern on the wall.... Then you aimed them lower? Sorry, just alittle confused why you aimed them higher when you have a 1" higher TRD PRO than the other trims in the beginning....

 

[mynameistory]

i am about to start a thread up on a complete 2021 retro fit including headlights and fogs.

Nice. If you haven't already purchased the 2021 fogs, you might consider the SS3. They are superior in performance and the sport level is cheaper to boot.

 

[Axix23]

Already got everything. I am more of an Oem kinda guy. Lol

 

[umidkusername]

Nice. If you haven't already purchased the 2021 fogs, you might consider the SS3. They are superior in performance and the sport level is cheaper to boot.

So I want to improve my headlights until I can put out the dough for the Marimotos. I’ll stick with halogen lights because it’s a halogen housing. Give me your best recommendation for halogen bulbs.

I have a 2020 TRD Pro.


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[rageandlove]

but according to your post, you actually aimed them higher first. because you were matching the halogen pattern on the wall.... Then you aimed them lower? Sorry, just alittle confused why you aimed them higher when you have a 1" higher TRD PRO than the other trims in the beginning....

Well, let me repeat myself, since apparently the first time didn't take.

When you change headlights, it's sensible to aim them. There's no guarantee that the vehicle you got them off had them aimed correctly. (Case-in-point ... if you look at my pictures above, you will see that the "factory" aim on my original halogens had the driver side light aimed about 1/2 inch or so lower than the passenger, so my truck as delivered from Toyota was off.)

So we can all agree it was time to aim them.

Now, you need to decide how to aim them, right?

I first used the Toyota aiming instructions to aim the lights, because it seemed like following OEM instructions would produce the best result. It did not. It produced dangerous results. Those instructions seem like they came from a Prius or something.

So then I read a ton of forum posts as well as several "expert" sites linked to in this forum, and found conflicting advice . There was the 2" school of thought, and the "above 39" it's 3."

So I figured I would start with the advice that put safety of others first and tried 3" below level. Not enough throw. So I moved to 2" and that seems to be reasonable.

So to those that bump into this post in the future, ignore Toyota and the experts.

It takes about 5 seconds to adjust the lights, so I'm kind of curious why you are so curious about a simple adjustment.

 

[ElectroBoy]

So I want to improve my headlights until I can put out the dough for the Marimotos. I’ll stick with halogen lights because it’s a halogen housing. Give me your best recommendation for halogen bulbs.

I have a 2020 TRD Pro.


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Low beam H11 to H9 & high beam 9005 to 9011.

Take a look at this thread, especially post 122 and 123. Cutting tool post 126.
How To: Headlight Bulb Conversion (H11 to H9 & 9005 to 9011)

 

[mynameistory]

So I want to improve my headlights until I can put out the dough for the Marimotos. I’ll stick with halogen lights because it’s a halogen housing. Give me your best recommendation for halogen bulbs.

I have a 2020 TRD Pro.


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Low beam H11 to H9 & high beam 9005 to 9011.

Take a look at this thread, especially post 122 and 123. Cutting tool post 126.
How To: Headlight Bulb Conversion (H11 to H9 & 9005 to 9011)

What electroboy said. This page keeps a running tab on the current best performers for the halogen H11 bulbs.

3rd Gen HID vs LED vs Halogen H11 projector headlights | Tacoma World

Ahead of nearly all of them, however, is the Philips H9 bulb. It's a high-beam bulb that can be fit into the H11 socket after a simple tab trim. It has nearly twice the intensity of the stock bulb while still retaining proper optics and distance projection.

It's what I run personally. Please note that as a higher intensity bulb, it will burn out more often than the H11 (about every 1-2 years instead of 4-5 like stock). They are usually pretty cheap to replace.

Amazon.com: Philips 12361B1 H9 Standard Halogen Replacement Headlight Bulb, 1 Pack: Automotive

If you're so inclined, the high beam bulbs (9005 series) can be replaced by the brighter 9011 after a similar tab trim. I run these as well.

Amazon.com: Philips Automotive Lighting 9011 HIR Standard Halogen Replacement Headlight Bulb, 1 Pack: Automotive

Take a look at my thread for all my lighting upgrades (lows, highs, reverse lights, auxiliary driving lamps, etc.).

mynameistory's not-a-build thread

By all means I do not claim to be a lighting expert. I just follow recommendations made by those that are. Good luck!

 

[Axix23]

Well, let me repeat myself, since apparently the first time didn't take.

When you change headlights, it's sensible to aim them. There's no guarantee that the vehicle you got them off had them aimed correctly. (Case-in-point ... if you look at my pictures above, you will see that the "factory" aim on my original halogens had the driver side light aimed about 1/2 inch or so lower than the passenger, so my truck as delivered from Toyota was off.)

So we can all agree it was time to aim them.

Now, you need to decide how to aim them, right?

I first used the Toyota aiming instructions to aim the lights, because it seemed like following OEM instructions would produce the best result. It did not. It produced dangerous results. Those instructions seem like they came from a Prius or something.

So then I read a ton of forum posts as well as several "expert" sites linked to in this forum, and found conflicting advice . There was the 2" school of thought, and the "above 39" it's 3."

So I figured I would start with the advice that put safety of others first and tried 3" below level. Not enough throw. So I moved to 2" and that seems to be reasonable.

So to those that bump into this post in the future, ignore Toyota and the experts.

It takes about 5 seconds to adjust the lights, so I'm kind of curious why you are so curious about a simple adjustment.

Your headlights weren’t off. You are.

You do realize that’s the correct setting from factory right? The driver’s side is supposed to be lower than the passenger’s side due to not blinding the incoming traffic. It’s like that on every single car.

No need to be an ass on here. I was just asking a simply question to your dumbass mistake of raising the height and then lowering it. And then trying to cover up the mistake.

 

[rageandlove]

Your headlights weren’t off. You are.

You do realize that’s the correct setting from factory right? The driver’s side is supposed to be lower than the passenger’s side due to not blinding the incoming traffic. It’s like that on every single car.

No need to be an ass on here. I was just asking a simply question to your dumbass mistake of raising the height and then lowering it. And then trying to cover up the mistake.

My word. Have you (1) looked at the design of the cut off on these lights or the halogens that were used pre-2021 and wondered what that stair-step design was all about or (2) cracked open the Toyota aiming instructions which clearly describes the exact opposite of what you are asserting?

Didn't think so. Perhaps instead of "helping me out" you spend a few minutes getting current on your information.

If you don't want snark, stop wasting time on forums trying to poke at people. This is a place to share information and help each other.

Have a good weekend!

 

[mynameistory]

It is normal for the driver side to be lower. I need to do more research but from my understanding, headlights over a certain height (36? 39?) have a 2" drop at 25 feet, while headlights below that are aimed level.