LawnDart's Build Thread

You can't tow with an aluminum bumper. Pelfrey has no plans for anything but a steel bumper. Frankly aluminum has no place on a rear bumper. Just not enough of an advantage and too many downsides.

The CBI is 200 when you factor in the spindles before the swing arms. The CBI is probably the best bumper on the market currently. I'll give them that.

I can tow with my alu. bumper just fine and it only weighs 70lbs. with out the swing arms.
The tow/receiver is made of plate steel and bolts to the rear cross member.
Its way tougher than plastic.

Granted its a 4th gen... I haven't been under a 5th gen. Well maybe a peek.
 
I guess the Japtor made an appearance on the 50 Best of Baja on CBS Sports:

27751955_10156996389359186_3297193330820538510_n.jpg


Fenders are back, and they look...amazing. The body shop took their time, and did a LOT of clean up. And it shows. These almost look OEM, and you expect them to weigh a lot until you pick them up and they weigh almost nothing.

They're being wrapped this week, clear bra, fender flares will be blacked out, a few other things being wrapped, and then assembly.

27500495_10156995742769186_218524714931191371_o.jpg
 
It's weird to go from a list of things to repair that was 2 goddamn pages long (some minor, some absolutely major), and now it's down to like...5-6 items (a few of which will be when I go down to Pelfreybilt.

Fenders are going on, being wrapped, etc.

27748176_10156999795759186_7418816704901845625_o.jpg
 
Better photos, getting everything aligned is the one downside to these fenders. It's basically trying to force everything into place to best mimic the original panel gaps:

27628688_10157002072984186_5404435056581463295_o.jpg


27709729_10157002072979186_2873018435502666757_o.jpg


27625210_10157002072989186_4003606696165095366_o.jpg
 
Was hoping to get it back tomorrow but the shop noticed that the paint really was still a little soft, and didn't feel comfortable doing the paint protection film until the fenders could really sit under some IR lamps. If you do the film on soft paint and have to correct the film, it'll damage the paint.

So early this coming week I'll get it back.

But...getting there.

27788803_10157007533269186_1102789372802280285_o.jpg
 
Better photos, getting everything aligned is the one downside to these fenders. It's basically trying to force everything into place to best mimic the original panel gaps:


27625210_10157002072989186_4003606696165095366_o.jpg

This looks AHHHHMAZING! I am going to ask a question that I'm sure has been answered here but for the life of me, I can't find it. But, is the snorkel fender completely custom or something that can be purchased?
 
This looks AHHHHMAZING! I am going to ask a question that I'm sure has been answered here but for the life of me, I can't find it. But, is the snorkel fender completely custom or something that can be purchased?

It can be purchased from McQueen Prototype Design. I will caution you, it requires a LOT of fitting to make it look as OEM as possible.

I'm still itchy from the work, and even then the body shop had to do a ton of work.
 
You may or may not be tired of hearing it by now, but I love your build. Be prepared to see a bunch of people rolling around with that hood wrap design.
 
You may or may not be tired of hearing it by now, but I love your build. Be prepared to see a bunch of people rolling around with that hood wrap design.

Thanks, I'm my toughest critic, so I keep challenging myself to improve this thing. And if it inspires other people to incorporate some of these mods into their builds, then awesome!
 
Is the black wrap going to continue on the front fender between the door and the flare?

Yeah, that'll go all the way to the flare. They didn't proceed forward because they want to let the fenders sit under some IR lamps till monday, just because if they wrapped them, and had to re-do the wrap it could damage the paint.
 
I will caution you, it requires a LOT of fitting to make it look as OEM as possible.

That's the #1 thing keeping me away. Gives more clearance but a royal pain to make them fit well. It's too bad there isn't a way to get accurate enough fiberglass molds to match OEM fit - and kind of incredible how tightly OEM molded plastics fit now.
 
That's the #1 thing keeping me away. Gives more clearance but a royal pain to make them fit well. It's too bad there isn't a way to get accurate enough fiberglass molds to match OEM fit - and kind of incredible how tightly OEM molded plastics fit now.

Almost all fibgerglass requires fitting, and they all have some degree of warping unless the process is so automated that it's repeatable. But these are super small hand made pieces.

Just the nature of niche products.
 
Such an awesome truck, I get excited when I see that you have a new post so I can see what else you have done. Keep up the good work and thanks for inspiring a lot of us.
 
So how much lift are you officially at? And how do your CV joint angles look on the front? LT helps those for sure just curious. Also I missed it an haven't found what bump stops you're using.
 
So how much lift are you officially at? And how do your CV joint angles look on the front? LT helps those for sure just curious. Also I missed it an haven't found what bump stops you're using.

Realistically it’s about 4.5”-5” of lift.

I’m running RCV high angle cv axles. The limit straps help keep the stress off the joints. I could get another half inch of down travel but at that point I’m asking for trouble. You have to run factory bumps on extensions in the front. The rear is using the timbren SES bumps on 2” extensions so my tires don’t eat my rear doors.
 
Such an awesome truck, I get excited when I see that you have a new post so I can see what else you have done. Keep up the good work and thanks for inspiring a lot of us.

Thanks. I think I’ve got this fat ***** done with her diet.

Weight is down to 6150. Still wish I could get it down lower but there’s alwaya a trade off.

Once these fenders and other small things are done I have to do the following:
- New Pelfreybilt Rear (late March)
- Replace a damaged rear brake line
- Replace damaged air sensor (the one I had to JB weld)

I think that’s it. I don’t have any other major plans. Possibly new seats from Scheel Mann. But I’m struggling to figure out if there’s stuff that really HAS to be done.
 
Realistically it’s about 4.5”-5” of lift.

I’m running RCV high angle cv axles. The limit straps help keep the stress off the joints. I could get another half inch of down travel but at that point I’m asking for trouble. You have to run factory bumps on extensions in the front. The rear is using the timbren SES bumps on 2” extensions so my tires don’t eat my rear doors.

Surprised you didn't switch to hydraulic bump stops, especially for Baja
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,075
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top