LBJ boots tearing

jhuerta22 said:
... :faint:
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Lol. That's off-road life. The UBJ when lifted has a major angle. This will cause it to loosen up if you wheel and flex it out. SPC UCA's fixed the angle issues.

My buddy had an OEM fail but it broke at the threads not the ball. We believe it was over under torqued.
 
spongerx said:
Just installed new Toyota Lower Ball Joints. When I tightened the bottom nut to 105 the boots were really bulging. As soon as I started driving a lot of the grease started coming out and about a week later the boots were torn. Any ideas?
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lets see some pics of these torn boots.

GrassFed said:
As far as suspension goes I was taught the suspension has to be under load when you torque it down otherwise you risk tearing boots, bushings etc.

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this is true for bushings yes. but, this does not apply to ball joints, or tie rod ends, or anything with a tapered hole.
 
Chuckles89 said:
If it was me, I would get some used OEMs with some energy suspension poly bushings
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The only issue I have with buying certain used parts like control arms is that they do not have any Toyota markings (atleast I haven't seen it if it is stamped somewhere). This makes it difficult to verify if the used control arms you are getting is truly a Toyota part. Even if it's a trusted seller, it would be hard to determine unless you (or the seller) knew the vehicle's history. I'm not saying to not get a used part but something to keep in mind.
 
spongerx said:
Man.... I hope that's not the case. Do you think I should replace them with OEMs?
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I would because it allows you to rule out the aftermarket control arms from being a contributing factor & the Toyota control arms are probably going to have better structural integrity.
 
GrassFed said:
The problem is I wasn't able to fit a torque wrench on the castle nut once the car was back on the tires. I had to torque in the air. With the little I know, I thought that was a pretty agreeable practice.
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You just put a jack under the the control arm, you don't need to be on the tires. It pushes everything up the same way. I catch the jack on one of the 3 big rivets on the lower control arm to make it safe from popping out.

I just did mine last night. I didn't even know anyone ever said anything about torquing while under load. I just did it that way because I had to jack up the lower control arm just to get the thing up to the ball joint to make it easy to put the castle nut on. So I torqued it while under load totally inadvertently.

I did notice though that it made the angle on the both the ball joint and the tie rod end (I was replacing outer tie rod ends at the same time) much more centered and lined up and probably a better position for tightening down just on general principle. So after noticing that, I would now do it that way deliberately from now on because of that too.
 
Awesome idea. I probably should have thought of that as I had to do something similar when doing the strut bars on another car. Thank you for the post. Here forums have been such a wealth of knowledge, it is much appreciated

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Update: I'm replacing the CVs and control arms with Toyota parts. The after market control arms aren' t machined correctly. Parts should be here tomorrow. Once everything is buttoned up all update this again. I've got a set of after market LDJs sitting around and don't have a money right now for OEM ones. I think the after market ones should get me through the winter and I'll replace them in spring if needed. All keep you posted.
 
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