LCA bolt torque without changing alignment? Front clunk.

[blefevre1]

I must be overlooking something really simple, but I couldn't find an answer to this.

I am trying to figure out a clunk I have when turning left at around 20mph. It's a pretty significant clunk that sounds like it's from the suspension somewhere. It's a 2016 TE/KDSS with 25k miles so I find it hard to believe something is worn. I do have 6112/5160 so maybe the front shock went bad already. They have about 15k on them.

I tightened the RCI skid plate and it was tight, but I will take it off tonight to be sure it's not that.

I want to tighten the LCA bolts as that seems like a common issue. What I can't figure out is how to do it without messing up the alignment. Do I need to hold both cam plates with a wrench while torquing?

The front has two cam plates and a bolt. So I hope I could just loosen the bolt head (facing the front of the truck) and re-torque without touching the cams.

The rear has two cams and a nut facing the back of the truck. I again am hoping I can just loosen the rear nut and retorque without having to hold the cams.

Thoughts? Tips? Do I really need to hold the two cams while torquing?

Thanks!

 

[4OYOTER]

I have always just torqued them without loosening or holding anything.. Hopefully I haven't been doing it wrong!

 

[rocky.mtn]

You and I both sound like we are having the same issue (see thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/238522-wobble-clunk.html)

I'm now getting my clunk moving forward as well. Please update if you find any fixes!

 

[wfo9]

Just tighten the nuts towards the rear of the vehicle. You should not need to hold the cams... but you can with a larger wrench. They won't move unless the bolts are very loose.

 

[LawnDart]

Just tighten the nuts towards the rear of the vehicle. You should not need to hold the cams... but you can with a larger wrench. They won't move unless the bolts are very loose.

Bingo. Just crank the wheels hard left and then hard right to get enough access to torque the rear bolts down to 129ft/lbs.

After my alignment the shop set them to like 100ft/lbs and they clunked when starting or stopping movement. Problem went away after. Also here's a good tip, use a paint pen to mark the bolts to see if they're coming loose.

 

[blefevre1]

Thanks. I will mark them first to be sure but then just tighten them without holding the cam plates. When I first took a look it didn't make much sense.

 

[4OYOTER]

Is there any issue with torquing the front bolts as opposed to the rear nuts? My torque wrench and sockets don't fit on the rear nuts of the front bolts because my CV joints are in the way. Seems like dropping the front skid plate and going from the front would be the only way to get a socket and torque wrench comfortably in place?

 

[4runherpow]

Is there any issue with torquing the front bolts as opposed to the rear nuts? My torque wrench and sockets don't fit on the rear nuts of the front bolts because my CV joints are in the way. Seems like dropping the front skid plate and going from the front would be the only way to get a socket and torque wrench comfortably in place?

Sorry to revive old thread... but did you ever figure out if torquing the front bolts was acceptable? Also, did you get a definitive answer on if tightening will change alignment? Having the same issue and think that torquing them fixed it but now wondering if the alignment was affected. Thanks I advance

 

[honda250xtitan]

Sorry to revive old thread... but did you ever figure out if torquing the front bolts was acceptable? Also, did you get a definitive answer on if tightening will change alignment? Having the same issue and think that torquing them fixed it but now wondering if the alignment was affected. Thanks I advance

if you read the other responses you'd have your answer....

 

[Kurumaas]

So I just wanted to say how thankful I am for this post… I did not want to believe that something this simple was going to solve my issue (same as everyone above). But I just went out and put my shiny new Icon torque wrench to work. We had recently replaced the LCA’s on our 2020 5th Gen… and after two weeks this clunk reappeared (it was original reason for replacing them). I was in shock but sure as hell neither of the rear bolts were anywhere near the suggested spec of 129 ft/lbs! Got torqued took a quick drive and for now clunk is gone.

Side note the advice of installing the KDSS accessories provided by DR. KDSS has also made a world of difference! Smoother ride and the mechanics said it was easier to get it aligned. I had no idea that lifting the KDSS system a mere 2.5” would put as much stress on the suspension as it evidently had. For now it’s peace of mind moving forward, it will likely take a few off-road adventures (it’s the season) to see if the IFS + KDSS work in unison again.

 

[seth1991]

Reviving an old thread! Having the same clunk in the front suspension on my 5th gen a few hundred miles after an alignment. Have a relatively simple question— is it essential to hold the rear nut with a wrench while torquing down to 129ft/lb, or can I just grab the front bolt with my torque wrench and crank down? Logistics of holding a wrench on the rear nut while trying to torque the front bolt seem complex. Thanks!

 

[rdruss]

Reviving an old thread! Having the same clunk in the front suspension on my 5th gen a few hundred miles after an alignment. Have a relatively simple question— is it essential to hold the rear nut with a wrench while torquing down to 129ft/lb, or can I just grab the front bolt with my torque wrench and crank down? Logistics of holding a wrench on the rear nut while trying to torque the front bolt seem complex. Thanks!

Holding the bolt head while you torque the nut can be accomplished by putting a 4x4 or 6x6 or stacked 2x4 under the opposite end of "hold" wrench so it can't move when nut on other end is torqued. You would have to be much stronger than I am to hold one end of the bolt and torque the nut to 129 lb-ft. simultaneously.