LCA question: replace just bushing or the whole arm?

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swampy_swimmer

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After replacing outer tie rod, I proceeded to get the track aligned and was shown lca bushings that were completely destroyed. Shop owner wouldn't even do the alignment and suggested I bought a set of bushings, OR better off new LCAs, since he will charge me $125 a piece to swap the bushings, thus new arms would be a better option.
I just researched the prices and lowes I could find OEM part are about $200 each.
What aftermarket manufacturer/model do you recommend for the lca?
Or should I keep the original and let him do just new bushings?

He also suggested I bought new alignment bolts, nuts, and I can't find them anywhere. Maybe someone can help with the p/n or correct name for it?
I need to do it fast cause my steering wheel is getting crooked.

Thanks and Happy New Year!
 
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the last LCA's i have done were on a 68 camaro. i pressed in new bushings. what a pain in the azz. damn near taco'd the LCA in the process.
 
Considering you are in NY, and if you could afford it, I would just get new OEM LCAs from an online dealer and have your mechanic put them on. Should run about $360 to $400.

Stay away from Dorman. Far away. Far Far away.......
 
this thread needs a poll.

Coming from someone who has replaced the bushings on these arms, just get new whole arms.
 
I just swapped bushings, and I can vouch for the job being more about getting the arms in and out, than just bushings. The bushings were the "easy" part.

I would get a quote on the install of new arms, with an alignment; because either way you're gonna need to get an alignment. Depending on how many miles on your truck you might want to freshen up the steering rack and sway bar bushings, more so the steering rack because that has to move to access the rear LCA bolts.

With the right tools, time and research this is a job you can do yourself - but not one you can hack your way through otherwise.
 
Is your vehicle just a Daily Driver or do you take it offroad a lot? If it’s just a DD, I’d opt for new arms for the ease. (Don’t get a cheap brand, because they will come with cheap bushing then fail sooner than they should). If you take yours offroading a lot, upgrade to WhiteLine poly bushings.


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If you don't have tools and a press, I would have a shop install them. No matter what you will need an alignment afterwards, so just leave it there and have them do the whole shabang. 2nd on the "stay away from Dorman." I said, "yeah right", and installed dormans on my UCA bushings. Failed in literally 10,000 miles, well not fail but they flexed like a failed bushing, total crap, might as well be shot. Install OEM or Whiteline. Consider yourself warned.
 
AssBurns said:
Is your vehicle just a Daily Driver or do you take it offroad a lot? If it’s just a DD, I’d opt for new arms for the ease. (Don’t get a cheap brand, because they will come with cheap bushing then fail sooner than they should). If you take yours offroading a lot, upgrade to WhiteLine poly bushings.
Click to expand...

runnyrunnerton said:
I2nd on the "stay away from Dorman." I said, "yeah right", and installed dormans on my UCA bushings. Failed in literally 10,000 miles, well not fail but they flexed like a failed bushing, total crap, might as well be shot. Install OEM or Whiteline. Consider yourself warned.
Click to expand...

Mine is a 2WD DD and I installed Whiteline bushings for three reasons: quality, cost and availability. Amazon for $62 and they are poly which means if yours is a low mileage DD they will outlast the vehicle.

While not greasable, they are "knurled" inside the bushings so grease has a place to stay between the sleeve and bushing and doesn't get squeezed right out. Also, use a crap ton of grease when installing them. They improved my ride quality 100% but in all fairness probably any new bushing would, one of mine on the driverside was toast.
 
Only OEM, it's not a fun job, and since you're paying someone to do it twice you don't want to pay them to do it twice when they aftermarket trash fails. Replacing the arm is much easier, that's what I did.

OEM should run about $400 for the pair, order from Mcgeorge Toyota Parts Online, they are cheaper than Camelback Toyota for those of us on the east coast typically.

Also get new cam adjusters, bolts, and maybe nuts (Toyota calls these plates, you can probably get away with reusing your old ones) since you live in the rust belt yours are almost definitely going to be seized.

Here's the part numbers, check the numbers before you order for yourself though.

OEM Right LCA - 48068-35081 - $181.55 x1
OEM Left LCA - 48069-35081 - $181.55 x1
OEM LCA Bolt - 90080-11283 - $4.16 x4
OEM LCA Plate - 48452-35020 - $14.97 x4
OEM LCA Adjuster Cam - 48409-35050 - $12.45 x4
 
Regarding rubber bushings:
Whatever you do, whether you go with just rubber bushings or complete a-arms only go with oe!! NO aftermarket rubber.
Been there, redid that.

Doing the r/r myself but paying someone else do the bushing presswork the bushings by themselves are only roughly about $100 less than a pair of a-arms. I used EB Toyota for parts.
It's up to you to check your numbers.
If you have the shop get them your price will seriously vary.

Lower ball joints are a consideration if they're due, especially if replacing the entire a-arm. Lower ball joint bolts too.

(I'm not saying you have to use rubber....just if you do....)
 
I just went through this. Shop couldn't get the old bushings out and one of the adjusters was seized and had to be cut out. I ended up with brand new arms and an adjuster.

I'll have an opened/unused Whiteline bushing kit up for sale if I can't return it.
 
swampy_swimmer said:
Shop will do it for me. So is that the best option to keep original lcas?
Do all bushings come with sleeves? What are the better ones?
Click to expand...

You don’t need a insane jack. I bought one from Home Depot. Used it on the LCA bushings. Returned it back afterwards. Say what you want!! If you do replace the bushings. Get either OEM ( which are expensive! ) or white line poly bushings. Personally, I’d recommend OEM. I found OEM ones on eBay for a little bit cheaper than from the dealer. I also found used cam bolts. I ordered 2 of them again, for a good price. And I’m glad I did. I needed to sawzaw one of them of. I fallowed Tim’s video on how to remove them. Did exactly like it and it came out great. Couple hiccups but nothing that I couldn’t figure out. All you need is a bottle jack from Home Depot. ( like $30-50) vise ( useful if you have one, harbour freight has them) and a torch.

I live in NJ. And only one can adjusted was seized. So I had to cut that one with sawzaw. The other old ones. I cleaned it up and put anti seize.

If you want to spend money. Go with brand new OEM LCA. Roughly around $200-250 per arm. Comes with bushings. Again, it’s not hard. But it can be a *****. A lot of it is common sense.
 
Thanks gents.
So I shouldn't even bother with parts from moog or ac delco?

And yeah, I dont have right tools and more importantly right place to do it. No garage and with current weather here its a bit extereme to do it outside :lol:
I was up in the mountains yesterday morning, temps were into singles, and my steering was harder to turn at the beginning of the drive.
 
AssBurns said:
Is your vehicle just a Daily Driver or do you take it offroad a lot? If it’s just a DD, I’d opt for new arms for the ease. (Don’t get a cheap brand, because they will come with cheap bushing then fail sooner than they should). If you take yours offroading a lot, upgrade to WhiteLine poly bushings.


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Click to expand...

It is a daily driver. I take it on sand in the fall, but that's it. What in your opinion is not a cheap brand, besides Toyota?
 
swampy_swimmer said:
So I shouldn't even bother with parts from moog or ac delco?
Click to expand...

No. Non-oem parts are generally garbage for these trucks. Most will agree with me on this.

The only thing worse than having to shell out a bunch of money for a repair, is to have to do it again because inferior parts had to be replaced.
 
Unner said:
Only OEM, it's not a fun job, and since you're paying someone to do it twice you don't want to pay them to do it twice when they aftermarket trash fails. Replacing the arm is much easier, that's what I did.

OEM should run about $400 for the pair, order from Mcgeorge Toyota Parts Online, they are cheaper than Camelback Toyota for those of us on the east coast typically.

Also get new cam adjusters, bolts, and maybe nuts (Toyota calls these plates, you can probably get away with reusing your old ones) since you live in the rust belt yours are almost definitely going to be seized.

Here's the part numbers, check the numbers before you order for yourself though.

OEM Right LCA - 48068-35081 - $181.55 x1
OEM Left LCA - 48069-35081 - $181.55 x1
OEM LCA Bolt - 90080-11283 - $4.16 x4
OEM LCA Plate - 48452-35020 - $14.97 x4
OEM LCA Adjuster Cam - 48409-35050 - $12.45 x4
Click to expand...

Thanks for the part numbers
 
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