YotaKyle
New member
Yes even after alignment it still was not fixable!
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LCA Removal... SHEESH!
- Thread starter YotaKyle
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MandAtaco
Member
Worn out Bushings could cause that, I would also check to make sure you don't have a brake caliper hanging up or dragging. I've heard even a hanging rear brake could cause a pull.
Yea, my bushings aligned fine, drove down the road straight, but as soon as I hit the brakes, it would change lanes on me.
4Runner4TW
New member
I did my LCA bushings over the winter and it was a hell of a job. Alignment bolts seized, unbolting the steering rack, pressing out then in the new OEM bushings. Took a solid 10 hours and I never even got to the uppers. They are still sitting in my office.
However it was well worth it. The loud squeaking is gone. Truck feels brand new.
My only issue now is when I hit bumps at speed, the front seems to rattle. I'm thinking, well hoping, that it's either my front shocks just worn out or the uppers control arm
bushings
However it was well worth it. The loud squeaking is gone. Truck feels brand new.
My only issue now is when I hit bumps at speed, the front seems to rattle. I'm thinking, well hoping, that it's either my front shocks just worn out or the uppers control arm
bushings
I was looking at eBay you can used LCA for 60 a pop. And replace the bushig then and just a wrap the LCA. Rather then have your truck sit there on jacks.
t4r92
Member
I'm about to tackle this same job with my '99 4Runner SR5. Not looking forward to it. I went the way of the junkyard, purchasing two spare LCAs and then I bought new OEM bushings to go in both of them.
I'm going to purchase new steering rack bushings also and change all that out at the same time. I have the goal of using the Camburg Racing UCA's at some point so I'm not going to worry about changing those out just yet.
I'm going to purchase new steering rack bushings also and change all that out at the same time. I have the goal of using the Camburg Racing UCA's at some point so I'm not going to worry about changing those out just yet.
YotaKyle
New member
Be sure to look up Timmy the toolman on YouTube. It will make your job much easier. He explains in great detail!
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absalom
New member
Don't need to drop the rack when pulling cams. Just need to remove the mounting bolts for rack, and position down about 1", and out of the way.
I'd recommend only OEM LBJ's, and poly LCA bushings. Heat the LCA's just outside the bushing with a propane torch until you hear a pop. Then push out with a flat-head. Messy, but easy job.
Don't be scared of this job. New LCA bushings will dramatically change the way your truck handles. If you have over 100k miles, change em now. Text me @ 480.779.8307 if/when you get stuck.
I'd recommend only OEM LBJ's, and poly LCA bushings. Heat the LCA's just outside the bushing with a propane torch until you hear a pop. Then push out with a flat-head. Messy, but easy job.
Don't be scared of this job. New LCA bushings will dramatically change the way your truck handles. If you have over 100k miles, change em now. Text me @ 480.779.8307 if/when you get stuck.
The LCA bushing thing is confusing to me. Seems like half the forum goes OEM and the other half goes poly.
YotaKyle
New member
Yeah it seems that way. The only real negative I've read most about the polys are the squeaking. I'm a firm believer in OEM though.. there's a reason why it last over 200k miles the first time!
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JayRolla
New member
Its pretty much if you believe in polys or not. They can squeak. I never really had that issue as long as they are greased but Im starting to get a squeak up front so it could be those.
The bad thing about OEM LCA rubber bushings are they can bind up and not allow free travel and actually lift the tire as where polys will give you full flex droop with zero chance of binding. NTM they will pretty much last forever.
Same thing here. I wanted to get it realigned after putting the lift on, but the passenger side adjusters were stuck SOLIDLY.
Ended up having to cut them out. An hour, hour and a half with a sawzall, cutting both sides of both bushings. Went through a bunch of blades too, those adjuster tubes (I was able to get the bolts out at least) are apparently made of some pretty hard metal.
JayRolla
New member
I had the same issue till I bought some Diablo blades. THey cut them out like butter, but I found that out after 4 blades and hours of cutting.
RS Dude
Member
Me too. One of my cams was rusted solid and had to cut it off.
Unner
New member
Just FYI for anyone doing this job I have my old set of LCAs and cam adjusters posted for sale right now.
Worst part of the job by far is the steering rack, but also be careful when separating he LBJ and LCA if you aren't replacing the LBJ at the same time, don't want to damage it.
Worst part of the job by far is the steering rack, but also be careful when separating he LBJ and LCA if you aren't replacing the LBJ at the same time, don't want to damage it.
t4r92
Member
Thanks [MENTION=143546]YotaKyle[/MENTION] !
stir_fry_boy
New member
Lots of heat is your best friend when replacing the LCA bushings.
JayRolla
New member
Just so people know there are two kits of polys when you go looking for LCA replacements. One likes heat, one likes cold.
Whiteline kits come with the metal bushing ring installed. You must press the ring out with an arbor press. Then FREEZE the new bushings so they are easier to press in. If you are not able to press the ring out of the old arm you can blow torch the bushings out then cut the ring with a sawsall.
Energy Suspension kits do not come with the bushing ring so you need to keep this installed when removing the bushing. Blowtorch the bushing out and install the new bushings.
TorqueOfTheDevil
Member
The other issue with polys is that due to the naturally firmer compound (which is the main selling benefit) the front alignment is more likely to get knocked out.
They are also less tolerant to the front and rear cams not being 100% parallel (which they are not in most cases). When I was changing my front drive shaft, I pushed the LCA right down out the way with the lower ball joint disconnected and it was really stiff, when it was all put back together, the alignment was off. (Tubes are not seized)
Of course you can counter argue that you'd not have been able to push a factory rubber mount out the way like that without it springing back up at you, and if it was freshly lubricated the poly bush should deform enough to cover 90 degrees of rotation before the cam bolt moved due to tension, but the way that the factory rubber bushes work would make it more tolerant under normal use.
I'm looking forward to going back to stock bushes.. just need my Total Chaos gussets welding to my new spindles.
JayRolla
New member
I could see this happening but have not noticed me getting knocked out of alignment as long as the cam bolts are TQ'ed correctly.
I have found polys bending the ends of my rear sway bar links. With rubbers they can flex more and no longer bend.
