LCA Removal... SHEESH!

Just got in my OEM arms and bushings yesterday. Going to start bolting them up this afternoon. See if it solves the issues!

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YotaKyle said:
Just got in my OEM arms and bushings yesterday. Going to start bolting them up this afternoon. See if it solves the issues!

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I would switch lanes when braking. When replacing my bushings I found one was completely gone. Now its like a new truck again.
 
JayRolla said:
I would switch lanes when braking. When replacing my bushings I found one was completely gone. Now its like a new truck again.
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Yeah mine has a pull and jerks right when braking (with new arms and bushings.. not OEM) and I didn't have that problem before. Hopefully these OEM parts do the trick

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YotaKyle said:
Yeah mine has a pull and jerks right when braking (with new arms and bushings.. not OEM) and I didn't have that problem before. Hopefully these OEM parts do the trick

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Ohh yeah I remember you saying that now. I would guess thats 99% the issue.
 
JayRolla said:
Ohh yeah I remember you saying that now. I would guess thats 99% the issue.
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Sure hoping so. It also was causing my tires to have a bad positive camber even after alignment also... just have to get those replaced and then getting the tundra coil and billys ordered along with the 906 ome rear coils!

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YotaKyle said:
Sure hoping so. It also was causing my tires to have a bad positive camber even after alignment also... just have to get those replaced and then getting the tundra coil and billys ordered along with the 906 ome rear coils!

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Yeap, I had this issue for two years. Passenger tire was getting v wear on the outside even after two alignments. Shops said everything was solid. They really dont look at the LCA bushings since in most rigs they last a lifetime. The OEM bushings do not like wheeling hard since they can bind up. Even my worn ones kind of binded up when I was flexing the LCA. I had to use a jack to move it up and down. With the polys i can fully travel the arm up and down with just my hands.
 
JayRolla said:
Yeap, I had this issue for two years. Passenger tire was getting v wear on the outside even after two alignments. Shops said everything was solid. They really dont look at the LCA bushings since in most rigs they last a lifetime. The OEM bushings do not like wheeling hard since they can bind up. Even my worn ones kind of binded up when I was flexing the LCA. I had to use a jack to move it up and down. With the polys i can fully travel the arm up and down with just my hands.
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Well I sure hope this is the case for me. I thought about the polys but didn't pull the trigger. What kind of lift setup is on your rig? Got a pic?

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Its in my sig.

OME 881's w/1" lift sleeve (3" front lift sagged with bumper/winch)
New LC 7 wraps w/LC Tokico OEM shocks
 

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YotaKyle said:
Sure hoping so. It also was causing my tires to have a bad positive camber even after alignment also... just have to get those replaced and then getting the tundra coil and billys ordered along with the 906 ome rear coils!

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I'll be doing the same after lbj, flexplate, and a of course lca bushings. 906 ome on the way and need to order the tundra parts.
 
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JayRolla said:
Just so people know there are two kits of polys when you go looking for LCA replacements. One likes heat, one likes cold.

Whiteline kits come with the metal bushing ring installed. You must press the ring out with an arbor press. Then FREEZE the new bushings so they are easier to press in. If you are not able to press the ring out of the old arm you can blow torch the bushings out then cut the ring with a sawsall.

Energy Suspension kits do not come with the bushing ring so you need to keep this installed when removing the bushing. Blowtorch the bushing out and install the new bushings.
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Do you or anyone else have write ups with pictures of this?
 
frodiesel said:
I'll be doing the same after lbj, flexplate, and a of course lca bushings. 906 ome on the way and need to order the tundra parts.
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Just FYI the Bilstein Tundra 5100 part number 24-188265 is being discontinued and upgraded to a newer part number with minor upgrades.
The new part is 24-261425 that will start shipping mid August.

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Where can I order oem LCA's from. I have a 2004 sport v6. Only place I've seen is eBay but it was just for the left arm.


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Damn I was definitely lucky because replacing my LCA bushings went without any issues. After reading many threads where guys were cutting, burning, and beating bushings, I was very apprehensive about doing this. After mustering up enough courage I was pleasantly surprised how it all went down. The bushings popped right out using the bottle jack method and the Whitelines went right in. None of the cam bolt were stubborn, I guess it's one of the benefits of owning a rust free Cali rig.
 
cbr900boy said:
Damn I was definitely lucky because replacing my LCA bushings went without any issues. After reading many threads where guys were cutting, burning, and beating bushings, I was very apprehensive about doing this. After mustering up enough courage I was pleasantly surprised how it all went down. The bushings popped right out using the bottle jack method and the Whitelines went right in. None of the cam bolt were stubborn, I guess it's one of the benefits of owning a rust free Cali rig.
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Even in non rust zones the sleeves can rust. I have no rust on my rig and they all had to be cut out.
 
Well I just hit a dead end. Got my control arms both back on was placing one of the new lbjs on and stripped the threads in the bottom of the steering knuckle. They were turning with hardly any frinction!? Really don't want to have to buy a $300 knucle...

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YotaKyle said:
Well I just hit a dead end. Got my control arms both back on was placing one of the new lbjs on and stripped the threads in the bottom of the steering knuckle. They were turning with hardly any frinction!? Really don't want to have to buy a $300 knucle...

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Damn, that sucks man. I would definitely get a replacement knuckle just because the LBJ is a critical part. You can definitely find one from a salvage yard for way cheaper. Also, I know the knuckles from a 2wd are the same except the internals which can be transferred from your 4wd, that way you have more options of finding a used one. Good luck man.
 
cbr900boy said:
Damn, that sucks man. I would definitely get a replacement knuckle just because the LBJ is a critical part. You can definitely find one from a salvage yard for way cheaper. Also, I know the knuckles from a 2wd are the same except the internals which can be transferred from your 4wd, that way you have more options of finding a used one. Good luck man.
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Yeah im going to attempt a tap first. Got a junk yard saying they can sell one for $50

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