Left Front Axle Leaking. Replace at dealer?

Lolaya

Member
Hi guys, this is my first thread after lurking for years (Even from when my dad owned my current 4Runner) and am in love with it. This will be my car for years! Hoping to get to at least 250k from my current 118k miles.

At my last 2 oil changes, dealership has been telling me that I have a left front axle that is leaking oil/grease(?). They are quoting me $879 to replace the whole axle.

Is there anything I should do? Maybe bring it to another mechanic if this is too expensive? Replace both front axles at this point (118k miles)? Do I really have to replace the axle to fix this issue?

If that price is reasonable, I will just do it at dealership but I want to make sure I'm not getting ripped off (in dealership standards).

Last question is... based on pictures below, how severe/time sensitive is this issue?
Thanks everyone!

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CVNiq60.jpg
 
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Hi guys, this is my first thread after lurking for years (Even from when my dad owned my current 4Runner) and am in love with it. This will be my car for years! Hoping to get to at least 250k from my current 118k miles.

At my last 2 oil changes, dealership has been telling me that I have a left front axle that is leaking oil/grease(?). They are quoting me $879 to replace the whole axle.

Is there anything I should do? Maybe bring it to another mechanic if this is too expensive? Replace both front axles at this point (118k miles)? Do I really have to replace the axle to fix this issue?

If that price is reasonable, I will just do it at dealership but I want to make sure I'm not getting ripped off (in dealership standards).

Last question is... based on pictures below, how severe/time sensitive is this issue?
Thanks everyone!

$878 for one side is a ripoff. They might be swapping it with a brand new Toyota unit which is expensive but you don't need to spend that kind of money. Ask if they can install aftermarket axles or go to a different shop.

You can buy rebuilt OEM axles from CVJ and ask to have the shop install those. Or pick up cheap aftermarket CV's for around $100 each, and labor is pretty minimal on a job like that. I wouldn't offroad heavily with the aftermarket CV's but for the price they probably aren't too bad for the street.

You can reboot them yourself but it is a greasy messy job that takes some down-time. You should be able to fix them up after you swap them out or sell them to a user on here for them to rebuild if you wanted. OEM axles last a long time.
 
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remove clip, replace with stainless steel worm drive clip $2. tighten.
does not look like its lost grease, it would be everywhere, however, slide boot toward wheel, inject some with grease gun direct into boot. pull back and tighten worm clip.
infact, blow the budget with 2 clips for $4.

2nd advice, dont go back to that dealer.

go to a regular mechanic and have some grease injected & worm clips put on if your unabled. 20 minute job i doubt no more than 20 minute labor.

if you wanted to change both joints (i dont see why!) probably $180 in parts for both non oem, and 2 hours Max labor.

check carefully and see of there any splits further in the rubber boots anywhere. if not, no need to replace anything but clips and grease; unless you get knock-knock-knock sounds when you turn heavy on the steering going round bends which would indicate cv joint wear (the jointed flexible part of the axle assembly under the rubber)
 
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remove clip, replace with stainless steel worm drive clip $2. tighten.
does not look like its lost grease, it would be everywhere, however, slide boot toward wheel, inject some with grease gun direct into boot. pull back and tighten worm clip.
infact, blow the budget with 2 clips for $4.

2nd advice, dont go back to that dealer.

The grease is pretty much everywhere. The CV shaft, shock, and bump stop are all covered in crap, its just not fresh grease which could mean most of it has already leaked out. Removing the clip might be hard to do without cutting the boot in the process.

Reboot it if you want, but to me its more of a bandaid fix.
 
The grease is pretty much everywhere. The CV shaft, shock, and bump stop are all covered in crap, its just not fresh grease which could mean most of it has already leaked out. Removing the clip might be hard to do without cutting the boot in the process.

Reboot it if you want, but to me its more of a bandaid fix.

i didnt see any grease flicked about apart from the obvious black shine at the part that has moved. perhaps the op could double check for this grease the pics are not that clear.

a clip is not a band aid fix, if the shaft does not knock and has not lost grease, then it could be all thats required if the boot is ok.
 
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i didnt see any grease flicked about apart from the obvious black shine at the part that has moved. perhaps the op could double check for this grease the pics are not that clear.

a clip is not a band aid fix, if the shaft does not knock and has not lost grease, then it could be all thats required if the boot is ok.

I feel you're not seeing what is truely there in the photo, there has been a fair amount of grease loss out of the boot and can be seen in the photo, if you look on the shaft, the boot and also on the shock you'll see, the best way to put it is "fuzzy dirt" coating everything, this is a sure sign of grease being slowly thrown out of the boot over some time and then being coated with dirt/dust, there's no way to tell without removing the boot and inspecting for wear/looseness in the joint to know if indeed the joint is damaged beyond repair. it's possible that there's still enough grease in the joint and it hasn't been damaged to the point of not being savaged by removing the boot cleaning it up, new grease and then install new boots....BUT I don't think you will find a shop willing to do so, if it were me I would buy CVJ replacements and have both shafts changed out, I would do the work myself but I think the OP doesn't have the means or experince to do it so I would have a shop other than the dealer to do it because of the dealer's high labor charges, but the OP could buy the CVJ shafts and have the dealer do the work if that is what the OP want to do or can't find another shop to do the work. IMHO
 
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Actually that's about right for oem parts installed by the dealer.

I was quoted about 1700 for both with torn boots and leaking grease.
You can do a boot kit but the labor to remove, strip, clean and replace is almost the same and it's reusing the old shaft vs replacing with a complete new assembly.

There are many aftermarket replacement options at a fraction of the price.
It all comes down to how long you plan on keeping it and whether you mind aftermarket vs oem parts.
 
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I feel you're not seeing what is truely there in the photo, there has been a fair amount of grease loss out of the boot and can be seen in the photo, if you look on the shaft, the boot and also on the shock you'll see, the best way to put it is "fuzzy dirt" coating everything, this is a sure sign of grease being slowly thrown out of the boot over some time and then being coated with dirt/dust, there's no way to tell without removing the boot and inspecting for wear/looseness in the joint to know if indeed the joint is damaged beyond repair. it's possible that there's still enough grease in the joint and it hasn't been damaged to the point of not being savaged by removing the boot cleaning it up, new grease and then install new boots....BUT I don't think you will find a shop willing to do so, if it were me I would buy CVJ replacements and have both shafts changed out, I would do the work myself but I think the OP doesn't have the means or experince to do it so I would have a shop other than the dealer to do it because of the dealer's high labor charges, but the OP could buy the CVJ shafts and have the dealer do the work if that is what the OP want to do or can't find another shop to do the work. IMHO

you are right i dont see the pic clearly enough.
my ideal is to replace if it is knocking when steering.
 
If you are able to do the work to pull and re-install the axle, check with local driveshaft service places. Some places will reboot it with the purchase of the boots.
 
I disagree with some of the earlier posts. There’s really not very much grease. The metal bands can loosen over time. The inner band on my left half axle became loose and it began leaking grease. I replaced with a new band using a joint banding tool and it has been dry for over a year. The band was less than three dollars and took about 10 min to replace. The tool was about $15. I purchased both on Amazon.

I would ask the mechanic why he thinks it should be replaced. If there is no clear tear and it’s not making noise while turning I’d try replacing the inner band. Good luck!
 
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Actually that's about right for oem parts installed by the dealer.

I was quoted about 1700 for both with torn boots and leaking grease.
You can do a boot kit but the labor to remove, strip, clean and replace is almost the same and it's reusing the old shaft vs replacing with a complete new assembly.

There are many aftermarket replacement options at a fraction of the price.
It all comes down to how long you plane on keeping it and whether you mind aftermarket vs oem parts.

Are aftermarket parts not as long lasting as OEM?
 
Makes sense. Does that mean I also can't upgrade to better performing axles? Is an axle not considered a performance part where you can acquire a new one (non oem) and expect better performance?
 
Toyota sells Boot replacement kits for the axle. Ask the dealer to price out a Boot Kit plus installation for that half axle. They are trying to sell you a brand new axle which you likely do not need.
 
The cost sounds about right. You can just have the boot replaced by a local mechanic but the cost might be just as high, due to the labor of removing the old boot and putting in the new one with grease. The reason why mechanics just replace the whole CV axel is because its quick and easy.

You can also go to a local mechanic and see what they charge for new boots or CV axel.
 
Are aftermarket parts not as long lasting as OEM?

I've heard both ways but you get what you pay for but it seems to me that the cost of doing just the boots is close to replacing the whole thing so that's what I'll do.
 
I disagree with some of the earlier posts. ThereÂ’s really not very much grease. The metal bands can loosen over time. The inner band on my left half axle became loose and it began leaking grease. I replaced with a new band using a joint banding tool and it has been dry for over a year. The band was less than three dollars and took about 10 min to replace. The tool was about $15. I purchased both on Amazon.

I would ask the mechanic why he thinks it should be replaced. If there is no clear tear and itÂ’s not making noise while turning IÂ’d try replacing the inner band. Good luck!

I agree. It does not look like much grease has been flung out at all. When mine went, due to a torn boot, there was grease everywhere. It was blatantly obvious. If it was that bad, the mechanics would have told you so. You look to be having some weeping/oozing. You need to get under there and check the boot for tears, rips, etc. You might have just slipped that end of the boot off the groove it seats in. Shoot, you could probably get an OEM band clamp from toyota, and a CV band wrench from an autoparts store and re-clamp it that way...making sure the boot is in it's groove (there's a shallow groove machined into the axle).

If the rubber is not torn or brittle and obviously deteriorating, then a new band clamp, using a worm drive hose clamp, is a viable option, but temporary. The problem with hose clamps is the sharp edges that can cut into the boot rubber which is already weak due to age. You could totally reboot that. It's messy and for slightly less labor you can just put in a replacement. The deal quote sounds about right but is insanely high... such is brand new OEM stuff from the dealer.

A boot kit will run, I think, around $80 from the dealer. What I did was order a re-manufactured one from Toyota. At the time, about 7 years ago I think, it ran me roughly $150 per axle. I could have returned the old ones for a core refund of $50 but I decided to keep them to re boot/rebuild them. I caught my leak quickly (I drove with it torn for only a week max, and probably less than that) so I'm highly confident that the innards are totally fine. I changed both of mine because I figured another boot was probably about to go. You should check around with the parts dept's from a few area dealerships and see what they can get and will charge. When I called, it was like 400 for a new axle and maybe half for re-manufactured. I think I read something about checking to see if there are online discount prices, so I found that parts dept also had online sales and I found they listed re-manufactured axles with a lower price that I got on the phone. I ordered and selected an option to pick up at the counter. Ever since then I've been going to that parts dept and developed a relationship with one of the main guys. He always recognizes me when I come in, remembers I have a 4runner, sometimes remembers my name if it hasn't been too long. They give me "preferred" pricing, or something like that. Just have to ask them if they can help you on the price ( they sell me the WS ATF at $8 a qt when I get a case for a flush... not that I do it a lot) I know people here on T4R have use "village toyota" (in Texas ??? I forget) for online orders and they have good prices as I recall. CVJ after market units have also been used by several members, which I saw mentioned...

You should be able to find several threads about replacing CV axles on T4R. It's actually a pretty easy job. It'll take some time, but not difficult. Look on youtube and you should find several videos. There's a good one by "the last great road trip" where the do/demonstrate a trail replacement on an FJ cruiser, which has the same front end. You'll probably need new axle seals. The CV has to come out and the seal at the diff might get damaged, plus it's got over 100k age... You'll also have to replace the knuckle seal. It looks like the outboard boot, you could probably replace that boot without removing the CV, but you have to take it out of the steering knuckle, and you're crawling all over the ground, and trying to keep the axle from flopping around, cleaning out old grease, putting in new, etc.... better to just take it out and put in on a work bench. Someone did a reboot write up several years ago with pics, etc.

Maybe all that makes sense. Sorry for the Tolkein-esque post. Hope it helps

Bob
 
I agree. It does not look like much grease has been flung out at all. When mine went, due to a torn boot, there was grease everywhere. It was blatantly obvious. If it was that bad, the mechanics would have told you so. You look to be having some weeping/oozing. You need to get under there and check the boot for tears, rips, etc. You might have just slipped that end of the boot off the groove it seats in. Shoot, you could probably get an OEM band clamp from toyota, and a CV band wrench from an autoparts store and re-clamp it that way...making sure the boot is in it's groove (there's a shallow groove machined into the axle).

If the rubber is not torn or brittle and obviously deteriorating, then a new band clamp, using a worm drive hose clamp, is a viable option, but temporary. The problem with hose clamps is the sharp edges that can cut into the boot rubber which is already weak due to age. You could totally reboot that. It's messy and for slightly less labor you can just put in a replacement. The deal quote sounds about right but is insanely high... such is brand new OEM stuff from the dealer.

A boot kit will run, I think, around $80 from the dealer. What I did was order a re-manufactured one from Toyota. At the time, about 7 years ago I think, it ran me roughly $150 per axle. I could have returned the old ones for a core refund of $50 but I decided to keep them to re boot/rebuild them. I caught my leak quickly (I drove with it torn for only a week max, and probably less than that) so I'm highly confident that the innards are totally fine. I changed both of mine because I figured another boot was probably about to go. You should check around with the parts dept's from a few area dealerships and see what they can get and will charge. When I called, it was like 400 for a new axle and maybe half for re-manufactured. I think I read something about checking to see if there are online discount prices, so I found that parts dept also had online sales and I found they listed re-manufactured axles with a lower price that I got on the phone. I ordered and selected an option to pick up at the counter. Ever since then I've been going to that parts dept and developed a relationship with one of the main guys. He always recognizes me when I come in, remembers I have a 4runner, sometimes remembers my name if it hasn't been too long. They give me "preferred" pricing, or something like that. Just have to ask them if they can help you on the price ( they sell me the WS ATF at $8 a qt when I get a case for a flush... not that I do it a lot) I know people here on T4R have use "village toyota" (in Texas ??? I forget) for online orders and they have good prices as I recall. CVJ after market units have also been used by several members, which I saw mentioned...

You should be able to find several threads about replacing CV axles on T4R. It's actually a pretty easy job. It'll take some time, but not difficult. Look on youtube and you should find several videos. There's a good one by "the last great road trip" where the do/demonstrate a trail replacement on an FJ cruiser, which has the same front end. You'll probably need new axle seals. The CV has to come out and the seal at the diff might get damaged, plus it's got over 100k age... You'll also have to replace the knuckle seal. It looks like the outboard boot, you could probably replace that boot without removing the CV, but you have to take it out of the steering knuckle, and you're crawling all over the ground, and trying to keep the axle from flopping around, cleaning out old grease, putting in new, etc.... better to just take it out and put in on a work bench. Someone did a reboot write up several years ago with pics, etc.

Maybe all that makes sense. Sorry for the Tolkein-esque post. Hope it helps

Bob

No, thank you and everyone who has helped out! Ive been learning a lot.

Couple questions for you or anyone to answer.

I called my local Toyota service dealer and they don't sell remanufactured. I am going to call tomorrow to see if they have boot kit.

What I am probably going to do is get a CVJ, keep my leaking core, reboot it (since that seems to be the problem) or at least change the seal as its hard to tell without really looking at it closely, and have it for when it fails next. This way I teach myself something new and kinda cool which would be a lot of fun. Also would make it so I don't have to replace other side yet, but be ready for when I do.

A couple questions:

Would a boot kit on an old axle be enough to have it be ready to be placed on the vehicle? What else does CVJ do (other than clean it/replace boot)?

Thank you!
 

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