BamaDrewski
New member
I picked up a back glass from a pull yard and installed it this past weekend. I have a few tips for anyone trying this.
I learned the hard way that when you go to put in the glass, the bottom outer corners can scratch the paint on both sides of the rear lift gate pillars. I used some painter's tape to prevent any further damage. I think I can buff and polish out the scratches.
The electrical connectors for the defroster can be a pain as they try and catch on the door when putting in the glass. Put painter's tape over them before the install. DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE TAPE and put some dialectric grease on the contacts before you try to put the glass in. This will help with the electrical connection (I also took a Dremel kit and cleaned up the contacts before installing the glass)
When attempting to put in the glass, take the glass and rotate it about 40 degrees and drop in one corner FIRST. (Also be sure to remove the exterior rubber molding along the top of the lift gate (bottom of the glass)
I had success (after removing the plastic trim panel and metal plants on the hatch) to roll the back window down about 30% to get to the screws that hold the glass on the operating system.
I also greased all the gears and rollers in the hatch while I had her open.
BE SURE to install the rear trim cover before operating. The window molding at the top of the plastic cover keeps the window from shaking and rattling when rolling it up.
The left vertical rail (where the glass roller goes) can be greased without removing it. The right vertical is a different shape and had to be taken out to grease it up. It's not hard to do.
One last thing. The "U" shaped brackets that ride in the vertical rails inside the lift gate will have a tendency to slide down and fall in the cavity of the metal liftgate. You have to fish them out.
LONG STORY SHORT: Glass is in, works smooth and no issues. If I had to do it again, it might take 30-45 minutes tops. I did this alone and did not need an extra set of hands.
I learned the hard way that when you go to put in the glass, the bottom outer corners can scratch the paint on both sides of the rear lift gate pillars. I used some painter's tape to prevent any further damage. I think I can buff and polish out the scratches.
The electrical connectors for the defroster can be a pain as they try and catch on the door when putting in the glass. Put painter's tape over them before the install. DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE TAPE and put some dialectric grease on the contacts before you try to put the glass in. This will help with the electrical connection (I also took a Dremel kit and cleaned up the contacts before installing the glass)
When attempting to put in the glass, take the glass and rotate it about 40 degrees and drop in one corner FIRST. (Also be sure to remove the exterior rubber molding along the top of the lift gate (bottom of the glass)
I had success (after removing the plastic trim panel and metal plants on the hatch) to roll the back window down about 30% to get to the screws that hold the glass on the operating system.
I also greased all the gears and rollers in the hatch while I had her open.
BE SURE to install the rear trim cover before operating. The window molding at the top of the plastic cover keeps the window from shaking and rattling when rolling it up.
The left vertical rail (where the glass roller goes) can be greased without removing it. The right vertical is a different shape and had to be taken out to grease it up. It's not hard to do.
One last thing. The "U" shaped brackets that ride in the vertical rails inside the lift gate will have a tendency to slide down and fall in the cavity of the metal liftgate. You have to fish them out.
LONG STORY SHORT: Glass is in, works smooth and no issues. If I had to do it again, it might take 30-45 minutes tops. I did this alone and did not need an extra set of hands.
