Let's talk PCV valve and breather

SV_Dude

Moderator
After looking around for how my engine is burning oil I think it's through the pcv breather hose. But how is this possible? The intake manifold pressure should push air through the breather hose and into the valve cover area. As the engine rpm increases the intake pressure also increases. At a lower rpm the crank case pressure is higher than the intake pressure but I don't understand how oil gets onto the top of the valve cover and inside of the "chute" that is rivited to the top of the valve cover. During low rpm's is the only time that the engine can push oil through the breather tube due to the low intake pressure.

Along these lines, what is the purpose of the pcv breather line when there's a separate pcv valve and hose.
 
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Your post really confuses me. That add is obviously a scam and I will be effing myself if I try to buy that gem at a whopping $2,300.

As for the old saying... you care to elaborate or is that a joke that I'm not understanding?
 
Your post really confuses me. That add is obviously a scam and I will be effing myself if I try to buy that gem at a whopping $2,300.

As for the old saying... you care to elaborate or is that a joke that I'm not understanding?

Maybe I should have found a decent one instead of a scam. As for the PCV, I have no idea at all.

I'll leave it to the professionals. BUMP
 
I'm thinking that this will be a good fix:

PCV elimination:
K&N Breather-20R/22R/RE/RET/2RZ/3RZ-Eliminates PCV
KN621015-2T.jpg


And for the breather:

http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.../v/vspfiles/photos/KN621015-2T.jpg?1349254137
KN621370A-2T.jpg



This will definitely fix the issue but it still doesn't explain the issue.
 
It's funny that every time I post up a little minute issue with my 4runner, everyone just suggests that I swap my sweet ride for a newer 4runner. I think you guys are just jealous of my sweet ride :D

Actually, I have been looking around and getting reasonable prices for a late 2nd gen or an early 3rd gen v6 auto runner for the wife. After the 1st of the year she's getting a daily driver that is a bit cheaper than a gas guzzling tundra. I could get her a little car but a 4runner seems like a much better idea.
 
22re sucking oil through pcv valve in head HELP PLEASE - TTORA Forum

its not too much vacuum, what you have is called "blow by" its caused by the piston rings collapsing partially if not completely.what happens is under load your putting more volume of air/fuel under greater pressure so the added compression gets forced past the rings into the crankcase which builds pressure inside the engine where it shouldnt be.*the only thing you can do is dont try to go up a hill so fast or pull real hard (such as a heavy trailer)i just got done putting new pistons and rings in my engine but i pushed along till i broke a piston__________________
 
It's funny that every time I post up a little minute issue with my 4runner, everyone just suggests that I swap my sweet ride for a newer 4runner. I think you guys are just jealous of my sweet ride :D

It's called pedestal chipping. They know they aren't worthy to possess 1st gen goodness themselves, so they're trying to bring you down to their level.

:banana:
 
22re sucking oil through pcv valve in head HELP PLEASE - TTORA Forum

its not too much vacuum, what you have is called "blow by" its caused by the piston rings collapsing partially if not completely.what happens is under load your putting more volume of air/fuel under greater pressure so the added compression gets forced past the rings into the crankcase which builds pressure inside the engine where it shouldnt be.*the only thing you can do is dont try to go up a hill so fast or pull real hard (such as a heavy trailer)i just got done putting new pistons and rings in my engine but i pushed along till i broke a piston__________________


Thanks for the input but I understand how blow by works and that is the point of the PCV is to exhaust that blow by back into the intake and into the cylinders. The blow by is normal for all engines. My issue is that the oil is getting into the intake through the pcv breather line. Air is supposed to go into that breather line in the opposite direction that the oil is traveling through. I know that when the oil travels through that line is during an idle or low rpm when the crank case pressure is higher than the intake pressure. But with the valve cover having a baffle and seal, oil shouldn't even be getting in that area. I may be needing to drill out the rivets on that baffle and clean things out and replace the seal. I'll give LCE a call when they open and get their opinion. I would just jump the gun and put those two filters on the valve cover but is oil just going to splash through those filters?
 
Nice post hoe_nah.

Whats the tundra get for milege (low teens) ? I cant see a 4runner being that much better (20s) .

Edit: Hey now!!! >>1986 4Runner Turbo

Edit part duex: Im amazed how many good looking 4runners (1st and 2nd gen) out there. They would sell so fast over here. Rust really sucks the woodpeckers egg. 95 4runner fully locked diffs

The tundra gets about 13-14 mpg. My 4runner gets about 17-18 with the lift and big tires. If I was to get the wife a good running 22re 4runner that is all stock I bet I could get 20-22mpg out of it if not better. I would love to get that turbo 4runner for her but she has to have an automatic. After the first of the year she'll get one. I love the tundra, stomping on the gas with almost 400hp and 450tq, it will sh!t and get!! But it is not an economical vehicle.
 
Thanks for the input but I understand how blow by works and that is the point of the PCV is to exhaust that blow by back into the intake and into the cylinders. The blow by is normal for all engines. My issue is that the oil is getting into the intake through the pcv breather line. Air is supposed to go into that breather line in the opposite direction that the oil is traveling through. I know that when the oil travels through that line is during an idle or low rpm when the crank case pressure is higher than the intake pressure. But with the valve cover having a baffle and seal, oil shouldn't even be getting in that area. I may be needing to drill out the rivets on that baffle and clean things out and replace the seal. I'll give LCE a call when they open and get their opinion. I would just jump the gun and put those two filters on the valve cover but is oil just going to splash through those filters?

Yes over time they will soak those filters and leak a film on the top of the valve cover but thats it. They will need to be replaced ever so often.
 
LCE says the only way to get that kind of blow by is if the piston rings weren't seating properly. I installed everything correctly and the gaps on the rings were good before I put them in the block. I really don't think that's the cause of my oil issue. Besides, I'm not blowing any smoke out of the exhaust and my motor runs way too darn good to have piston ring issues.

I called engnbldr and they suggested that I have a pcv issue... go figure. That was my original concern. haha. Tod talked me through a few things and he makes a lot of sense when he breaks things down. I have said it a few times before and I'll say it again. The guys at engnbldr are great people and have always been extremely helpful with everything. I would highly recommend them for anything you need on your 22re. Anyways, he suggested that I either have a bad pcv valve or the baffles in my valve cover were clogged. I tested my pcv valve again and it's good. Air passes through it from the valve cover side to the air intake side as it should and there is heavy resistance when trying to blow air through the intake side of the valve. I then pulled the valve cover and cleaned the cover as good as I can without pulling out the baffle plate. I soaked it with some degreaser then hit it with some compressed air. I then put a garden hose on it and water freely flowed through the baffle and both ports on the baffle. Hopefully this fixes my issue but I won't know for a couple weeks until I see if my oil level is dropping or staying where it should.

Now I just drive it and see what happens.
 
So, I'm pretty sure that my engine is about F*CKING worthless! It's irritating because I put a ton of work and money into it. I have good flow through my whole PCV system and I'm extremely low on oil again. At this point I am confident that it's seeping through the piston rings and into the combustion chamber.

At this point my options are to stick with this engine and tear it down and have the block inspected my a machinist to see if the bore job from the last machinist was good. IF it is then I can just home and re-ring the pistons and maybe have a good product. If the bore is bad then I can re-bore it to .040 over and then have to buy new pistons that are .040 over. Either way I think I'm looking at a few hundred bucks at the least.

My other option is an engine swap. After thinking a bit about the 3rz, I really think that a turbocharged 3rz would be a really cool power plant. I would also like to have a supercharged 3.4 too.

Right now I can still drive with the 22re, it doesn't really lack any power. But am I risking a serious failure if I keep driving it the way it is? I'm thinking that mid November I'll tear it down and see wtf and have the block inspected.
 
So, I'm pretty sure that my engine is about F*CKING worthless! It's irritating because I put a ton of work and money into it. I have good flow through my whole PCV system and I'm extremely low on oil again. At this point I am confident that it's seeping through the piston rings and into the combustion chamber.

At this point my options are to stick with this engine and tear it down and have the block inspected my a machinist to see if the bore job from the last machinist was good. IF it is then I can just home and re-ring the pistons and maybe have a good product. If the bore is bad then I can re-bore it to .040 over and then have to buy new pistons that are .040 over. Either way I think I'm looking at a few hundred bucks at the least.

My other option is an engine swap. After thinking a bit about the 3rz, I really think that a turbocharged 3rz would be a really cool power plant. I would also like to have a supercharged 3.4 too.

Right now I can still drive with the 22re, it doesn't really lack any power. But am I risking a serious failure if I keep driving it the way it is? I'm thinking that mid November I'll tear it down and see wtf and have the block inspected.

I'm thinking you just need to keep the oil topped off, and drive it like it owes you dinner.
 
You might consider changing out the pcv(if clogged, internal crankcase pressure will be high), clean the TB, and change oil weight. I found our old 1990 4runner(3vze, auto, 4wd) really did well with either M1 syn high mile formula 10w-40, or Castrol Syntec 10w-40. It uses no oil between annual changes(driven about 3-5k).
regards
 
I'm thinking you just need to keep the oil topped off, and drive it like it owes you dinner.

This beyatch owes me a lot more than dinner! I spend a lot of loving time with her and she just recently started putting out. Now she wants to burn oil... I think the oil consumption is getting worse too but I cannot really tell for sure. In the last few months I have added about 5 quarts of oil to this engine.

You might consider changing out the pcv(if clogged, internal crankcase pressure will be high), clean the TB, and change oil weight. I found our old 1990 4runner(3vze, auto, 4wd) really did well with either M1 syn high mile formula 10w-40, or Castrol Syntec 10w-40. It uses no oil between annual changes(driven about 3-5k).
regards

Thanks for the suggestion but the whole pcv system is good. I am also already running 20w-40 oil.


I am not 100% sure on what to do yet. I may try and fix this engine but not quite yet. I may also pull the engine and do my engine swap sooner than later. IF I pull this engine, I'll wrap it in some plastic and throw it in the corner of the garage for a future project. This is still one heck of a 22re that can be saved for a few hundred bucks. I just don't want to put any more money into this engine right now. I would rather do a heart transplant and have a lot more power. I think I'm shooting for the 250hp and 275-300ft/lbs tq area. As for the best way to do that is either a SC3.4 or a turbo 3rz. I figure both will cost close to the same to do. After seeing kid's thread and all the input there about the 3rz, I am leaning towards that route.
 
20w oil is pretty thick for that 4cyl engine, you might consider something slight thinner. This might be counter intuitive but the heavy weight oil your running might be building up too high of an internal crankcase pressure which is giving you the excessive blow by.
regards
 

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