Lets talk skids. What to protect and what is safe?

[DesertCanyons]

RCI skid plates and rock sliders

Rock sliders are the first thing you should get. Those will save your vehicle from expensive damage to the rocker panels below the doors. They're often the first thing you hit when off-roading.

I got the full set of RCI skid plates - engine, transmission, transfer case, gas tank and lower trailing arm anchor point skids. The thin OEM engine skid was totally thrashed and bent up after a few mild trail runs. Besides, the Toyota dealer over torqued the bolts when they did the "free oil change". I had to cut the OEM skid off all around the bolts to get the bolts free when I started my lift install.

The RCI plates overlap from front to rear. The front edge of the transfer case plate sits on top of the transmission plate. The tranny plate sits on top of the engine skid plate. Not getting the engine skid is not a good idea. It would leave the leading edge of the transmission plate exposed to being bent back by rocks as they slide back underneath the OEM engine skid.

When I looked at the rear lower trailing arms I found one of the front mounts had already been bent sideways and scraped by driving over rocks. The RCI skids fit over the OEM mount points so the install is easy. The new anchor point skid plate is beefy and will take all the abuse I can give it.

I installed the ICON Stage 7 lift with tubular trailing arms and track bar. Those are beefier than the OEM but if you high point on any brand of LTA I think you're going to bend them anyway. Fortunately, I haven't tested that yet.

To protect the new ICON rear shocks I also got the rock deflector plates that bolt onto the lower shock mount bolt. They sit vertically in front of the shock piston rods so it's not really a "skid". I think I got those from ICON, not RCI. They're stainless steel and serve to protect the shock pistons from pitting and nicks that can cause shock failure at the seals. I also found rubber shock boots to fit the 2.5" rear shocks and created more protection for the shocks. Those slip on easily if they're the right size. They fit behind the ICON deflector plate. I secured them only at the top with a plastic wire tie so they can drain. They were under $20 for a pair, IIRC.

Get the rock sliders first. It was the first mod I did to my rig, knowing how easy it is to damage the rocker panels.

 

[DesertCanyons]

Gas tank skid & front face of OEM skid

I will let the pictures speak for themselves. I riveted the frontal protection on the gas tank skid. I'm stock TRD Pro suspension for now. Not sure if I want the BP-51 or Icon stage 4.

I like how you rivetted that plate onto the gas tank skid. The front face of the gas tank is left exposed by all of the gas tank skid plates that are available. The OEM tank skid wraps around the front of the gas tank, protecting the tank from small stones, gravel and debris thrown up by the front tires. When I look at every forward facing plate behind the front tires, like the struts on the rock sliders, I see they are heavily pitted from small rocks hitting them. I saved the OEM gas tank skid and I'm trying to figure out how best to insert the front of it above the RCI gas tank skid.

It looks like you created your own plate for this purpose. Is that right?

 

[coltm4]

I like how you rivetted that plate onto the gas tank skid. The front face of the gas tank is left exposed by all of the gas tank skid plates that are available. The OEM tank skid wraps around the front of the gas tank, protecting the tank from small stones, gravel and debris thrown up by the front tires. When I look at every forward facing plate behind the front tires, like the struts on the rock sliders, I see they are heavily pitted from small rocks hitting them. I saved the OEM gas tank skid and I'm trying to figure out how best to insert the front of it above the RCI gas tank skid.

It looks like you created your own plate for this purpose. Is that right?

Yes. I have a friend who has access to scrap (used) signs. I just took an old sign and hammered the bends on my shop table. I thought about using the stock skid as a part, but there was no good way I could think of to make it work with the RCI skid. I'm actually more concerned about random branches getting kicked up and punching a hole through the front of the tank. I used aluminum Marson Klik Lock structural rivets. In hindsight, I think a stainless rivet would be better. I few rivets have had their heads scraped off by rocks.

 

[4RunnerBoise]

After my 1st rocky wheeling trip I high centered on my stupid side steps, but I came to realize that i was millimeters away from damaging the transfer case. Immediatly after that I jumped on a ShrockWorks group buy to get a skid package (engine, trans, Tcase, fuel tank).

They are thick and sturdy, a little could be improved but they do they job well.

It was my first serious upgrade to my 4R and I'm happy i did it, I feel a lot more confident on the trails.

I got at the same time a pair of sliders as well, they are also needed IMO.

Hope this helps

I also got the full set of Shrockworks skid plates, I felt like the driver side rear of the fuel tank skid needed an additional support which I had a local shop make, wondered what you thought.

 

[snif6969]

I also got the full set of Shrockworks skid plates, I felt like the driver side rear of the fuel tank skid needed an additional support which I had a local shop make, wondered what you thought.

Do you have a pic of the mod ?

 

[mtnbiker49]

IF you just needed one skidplate, it would have to be the engine skid to protect the low-hanging engine oil pan. Been there dented that.

 

[cutty01]

Here's how I approached my skid purchases. First supplement the stock skids with what is not already protected. Go wheelin a few times and see how you do with the stock ones in place. You may or may not smash the stock ones which you can replace after the fact.

Right away I purchased rock sliders and I got a RCI fuel tank skid and transfer case skid. Note: I have an LE and only the front 1/3 of the fuel tank was protected. If you have a Trail you may be OK with stock fuel tank skid for a bit.

I've yet to smash up my stock front skid. Also the tranny is higher than the other vital components, so you may not need a transmission skid right away either. A few months ago, I took a bad line and thank goodness I had the transfer case skid and fuel tank skid in place. I now have a very healthy gouge on both. I would've hated to see what would've happened if I hadn't supplemented my stock setup with those two.

I bought aluminum skids for weight issues but they do "stick", whereas the steel skids will "slide". You'll also likely have to repaint the steels skids every time you scrape them to prevent rust, whereas the aluminum skids don't require any paint.

 

[4RunnerBoise]

Do you have a pic of the mod ?

First picture shows the very stout support on the driver's side front of the gas tank skid.

From the back of the flange behind the second bolt (the one on the right) is 38" unsupported to the back of the gas tank skid.

Second picture is my added support. It uses the two holes present in the skid and the existing threaded hole in the frame where the factory skid bolted in. Yes, the whimpy factory skid was bolted at all four corners.

Third picture shows the support for the passenger side front of the gas tank skid. I wanted something this beefy but my shop wouldn't let me into the fab area to discuss the mod so I go what is in the second which is basically bent heavy duty strap metal, much better than nothing, but not what I hoped for.

I didn't get any reply from Shrockworks when I emailed my suggestion to add one more easy to bolt on support, but they have never reply to my comments.