License Plate Screws

apache67

New member
Hi Guys,

Having an issue with some rusted license plate screws (rear ones).

Question: do these screws protrude enough to double-nut them from the backside (inside of hatch) in an attempt to remove them?

Assuming they do, how do you get the plastic assembly off of the rear hatch? (simple or a PITA?)

TIA!!

G
 
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Attached screen capture:

Are the two bolts (circled in cyan) the license plate holder nuts/bolts?
 

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I just dealt with this on my 2012. I hit them with some rust buster and then use a pair of vice grips to grab the head - it can be done- and give them a couple slight turns in both directions. Then screwdriver got them out.
Good luck.
X
 
Attached screen capture:

Are the two bolts (circled in cyan) the license plate holder nuts/bolts?

Looks like you're probably right. I would think the nuts for the license plate mounts would be welded on like the ones shown in your picture circled in blue. This is actually one of the reasons I swapped out my license plate bolts with titanium ones. Good luck !
 
Looks like you're probably right. I would think the nuts for the license plate mounts would be welded on like the ones shown in your picture circled in blue. This is actually one of the reasons I swapped out my license plate bolts with titanium ones. Good luck !

Link to these Ti bolts?
 

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Last edited:
I just dealt with this on my 2012. I hit them with some rust buster and then use a pair of vice grips to grab the head - it can be done- and give them a couple slight turns in both directions. Then screwdriver got them out.
Good luck.
X

Happened to me too. Also heating the screws a bit w/ a heat gun helped.
 
This is a reason I like a lot of the American car companies. I work around cars everyday and trying to get those seized license plate screws out is pain in the arse. With American cars, it's usually just coarse threaded screws into a plastic square.
 
Mine had nylon screws. Both of them snapped off when I tried to remove. I drilled out the center of the nylon machine screws and replaced with stainless screws.
 
My previous vehicle had nylon screws from the factory. Heads sheared off when I was trying to remove the dealer license plate frame. Drilling them out was a PITA. Never touching plastic screws again.
 
I also had this issue and replaced mine with Stainless Steel screws to avoid further rust issues. If you live in a salt prone area, I would suggest being proactive in replacing your screws before they become seized and a real pain in the butt to remove, as occurred on my 1999 4Runner.
 
Replaced mine with plastic screws, also noticed my rear plate lights screws were resting replaced those with stainless steel
 
While you're in there replacing your license plate screws, there are four screws holding the license plate light lenses in above your license plate (look upward). Replace those with stainless too. Future-you will appreciate it.

If you end up having the dig out the old ones, just bite the bullet and take the tailgate apart to remove the whole assembly so you can twist them out with pliers from the inside. They seat into plastic that is relatively delicate so you can't push hard or create any heat with a drill bit/extractor.

Damn rust...
 

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