LIFT? and diff drop?

Cbrdan600

New member
i am finally getting around to lifting my 2000 t4r 4wd 5spd. i want to get a better lift than just the basic Revtek coil spacers. i have been looking at the 3'' kit w/ spacers, rear OME coils, and diff drop kit and not sure if i needed the one with the diff drop or not? also if the spacers in the front wear the front shocks out faster how do you avoid that? do i need new front coils also ? or is there a better waY? thanks for the advice

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i just got that lift kit. i was told not to worry about the diff drop. here is the thread i started (about the diff drop) so you can see for your self.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=41888

obviously it would be better to get new shock in the back and new coilovers in the front becasause ur stock parts are gonna wear out faster with the more strain from the lift and if u get bigger tires. its just if ur willing to spend the money. i got these for the back: http://toyteclifts.com/index.php?pa...ategory_id=71&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53

and next summer when i have more money i will buy the coilovers for the front (not sure which ones yet), but as of right now im using the spacers that came with the kit.
 
I can only speak from experience but after installing my 2.5" Daystar kit both inner cv boots had torn within 6 months. I am waiting to install new front axles, each is $226, until I put my Old Man Emu lift on. Needless to say, I ordered the diff drop and have been running it for the last year and a half with no problems from the CV's. I feel they would have failed by now with no drop because of the torn boots and the added stress of the lack of proper lubrication in the joint. I might add that I originally wanted to just replace the boot but it would have involved rebuilding the entire axle on each side just to replace the boot. New ones are cheaper. Just wanted to add my opinion since I see everyone had decided the diff drop is worthless. $40 would have saved me $452 in parts alone. Your choice.

:awais:
 
cheap insurance

hani1400 said:
Do all lift kits need dif drop?
Or does some of them vary?


Some folks on this forum and Yota Tech have suggested that a front diff drop is not necessary.

I have one that I never installed and I don't see the need for. You can see what I am running in my signature line. I ended up with very little lift up front -just about 1" and 3" in the rear.

For the few dollars they cost they can be cheap insurance as DavidAlexander has posted.

Will you need one-maybe not....

See Sonoran Steel website to read up all about lifts on the 3rd gen Runners. Spacers are not recommended. FAQ section is highly informative. Consider all the options.

Some folks run spacers just fine-others have reported problems.
 
lift?

hey guys. ron did you put a lift on? did you do it for the bigger tires? I'm getting my new tires in a matter of days. now I'm worried about rubbin with the 265/75 nitto's. hit me back. oh and the blacked out murdered look is bad ass but my last two vehicles have been black and in washington you get a little sick washing every other day.
drop diff can't be a bad idea puttin things back where they belong.
I'm just glad to able to post about something other than my runner got totaled. some d@#k head ran a red light when I was trying to make a left turn. we're talking inches from a huge wreck I was so puckered I could barely pop out of the seat. then I would have had to join a tundra forum. ha ha
 
My idea and rationalization was just to get the CV angle closer to stock. On the question of spacers, I have not run into any other problems by installing them other than the torn boots. I do plan on replacing them with Old Man Emu Springs and Shocks for better articulation as the spacers dont really add any to the suspension setup. Bottom line spring lift is far superior!
 
DavidAlexander, when your boots tore, why did you replace the whole axle? You know the boots are less than $30...
 
techno said:
DavidAlexander, when your boots tore, why did you replace the whole axle? You know the boots are less than $30...
I haven't replaced them yet. When I refer to my Haynes manual it states "If the CV joints must be overhauled (usually due to torn boots), explore all options before beginning the job. Complete rebuilt driveaxles are available on an exchange basis, which eliminates much time and work." I would probably have to do an inner cv joint overhaul on both sides becuase of the torn boots.
And when I look at the process of taking out the front axles it involves a lot. So I fugured I should do both axle boots and overhaul both joints on both sides becuase of the age. So the money and time added up to put the old driveshafts in again when I could drop in 2 brand new ones with new cv joints for $226. I have upper and lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends to replace when I do this, in addition to an OME 891/881 N91S N86 setup. I have already replaced the stabilizer end links too. I am going to have these new parts on the suspension because it seems to take the biggest beating off road. So.... I might be lazy by not wanting to rebuild both axles just to make sure they were in "like new" condition. But I will be happy by the ease of the job and the time and mess it will save me.
 
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Good thinking. If the boot was torn there may havae been some dirt and crap that got in, and that is the biggest killer of cv's.
 

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