Shiftless Joe
Member
I don't know who's doing the lift installs around here, but I've seen quite a few lifted Tundras around Appleton, so someone must be doing them.
Lift install at shop....or do myself (in Appleton, WI)?
- Thread starter cjsmuscle
- Start date
Right?!?! I see a gold 4Runner (4th Gen) near the airport all the time, a real nice black one and many Tundras rolling around here!
And, hello fellow Fox Valley Yota owner :cheers:
The rear is easy. Droop out the suspension. Undo the top bolt (unless you're like me and it was rusted solid, so I just cut it off with a cut-off wheel on my grinder), undo the bottom bolt, slide the new shock into place, fasten the top and bottom bolts.
The front is a little trickier. Undo both bottom control arm bolts, loosen the lower control arm cam bolts (I marked mine and put them back as close as possible when tightening them. When it went in for an alignment, they barely changed anything). I removed the ball joint. Some videos claim you can do it without doing that, but I couldn't get enough movement to fit the Bilstein 6112s into place.
The hardest part is getting to the back nut on the top of the strut tower. I recommend using Gear Wrenches for the top nuts, both on the front and rear shocks.
All of the torque specs are online. Plan for the better part of day to do this is this is your first go.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHE3pBdW2po
fihnguy
New member
Yourself is a way to go, IMO.
A day before you start, spray all the bolts/nuts with WD40 or equivalent (a couple of times, perhaps) Especially the ones holding the stabilizer bar brackets since those are almost guaranteed to be a pain. I would even say that it is a good idea to buy those four new bolts prior to beginning the work and replace them when putting it all back together. Replace the bushings while you are at it. The strut mount bolts will be a pain as well. Spray them well, let them soak, and spray again later a day before.
Make sure you have all the tools needed for the job, obviously, as well as the parts. Inspect the tie rods and all other components affecting alignment and get the parts if necessary. Reciprocating saw is a good tool to have in case you are planing to put a new bolt in when replacing the upper control arm. Adjustable pliers is a good thing to have handy as well. Other than that, a good hummer, a ratchet, a bunch of sockets (10, 12, 14, 17 and 19 for the most part), a bunch of wrenches (14, 17, 19), a good prybar or two, a torque wrench, some wood blocks for support, etc. I may be forgetting something, but that's about all you need.
Also, the whole thing can be done on a weekend. There is nothing extraordinary about this job. A set of extra hands if almost necessary, so find a helper.
A day before you start, spray all the bolts/nuts with WD40 or equivalent (a couple of times, perhaps) Especially the ones holding the stabilizer bar brackets since those are almost guaranteed to be a pain. I would even say that it is a good idea to buy those four new bolts prior to beginning the work and replace them when putting it all back together. Replace the bushings while you are at it. The strut mount bolts will be a pain as well. Spray them well, let them soak, and spray again later a day before.
Make sure you have all the tools needed for the job, obviously, as well as the parts. Inspect the tie rods and all other components affecting alignment and get the parts if necessary. Reciprocating saw is a good tool to have in case you are planing to put a new bolt in when replacing the upper control arm. Adjustable pliers is a good thing to have handy as well. Other than that, a good hummer, a ratchet, a bunch of sockets (10, 12, 14, 17 and 19 for the most part), a bunch of wrenches (14, 17, 19), a good prybar or two, a torque wrench, some wood blocks for support, etc. I may be forgetting something, but that's about all you need.
Also, the whole thing can be done on a weekend. There is nothing extraordinary about this job. A set of extra hands if almost necessary, so find a helper.
fihnguy
New member
I found a Reciprocating saw is easier to use; not much room there.
I broke two of those when doing mine, lol. I think it took me as long to remove those
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fihnguy
New member
I would not go as far as replacing everything. Tie rods, sure because you are doing an alignment after anyway. Shafts, probably not if there is nothing wrong with them. Also, they don't need to come out for the job you are preparing for. If there is nothing wrong with sway bar links, I would leave them as well. Both are an easy enough jobs to do later when necessary. But this is just my opinion.
I find that the saw blades dull quickly and I only had the one left. I used the cut-off wheel to score the nut, then turned the shock a little, and scored the other side. Lather, rinse, repeat. Just keep turning it and then put the wrench to it to snap it free.
The Gear Wrenches are more beneficial when tightening the nuts.
Slowgoat
New member
I’m just up the road in Green Bay! PM if you need any info. You’ve got this!!!
Be careful what you ask for, hahaha! Thanks for offering advice if I need it! I knew I had seen some killer Runners in the area! Hope to actually meet some of you.
Thanks for the continued advice, all of you.
Slowgoat
New member
My best purchase was a M18 Milwaukee impact and my second favorite was the M12. They’ll pay for themselves!
bob3dsf
New member
The DIY install is totally do-able, especially if you have some mechanical inclination. Just be methodical. I'd guess the biggest headaches would be frozen or broken fasteners and having to go get it aligned.
A comment was made about having the front struts pre-assembled.... there really isn't a need. Look on the 120 site. There was a write up showing you can use a floor jack and the weight of your rig to get it all together as you do the job. Works like a charm. I installed FJ springs and 5100's. I put the fronts on 1.75 (I'm using stock UCA's). I put 1.5" spacers on the rear springs. I had to rent a spring compressor ( I had rented it ahead of time just to have it if I needed it) to squeeze the rear coils a little to get them in. I was being very carefully about dropping the axle too much and damaging the flexible section of the brake lines.
The only thing I'm ever really "nervous" about is running into a snag where I will be down over a day. It's my daily driver so when the kids are in school, and the wife is at work, I don't want to be stuck.... but it's a fairly easy job, just a little time consuming.
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A comment was made about having the front struts pre-assembled.... there really isn't a need. Look on the 120 site. There was a write up showing you can use a floor jack and the weight of your rig to get it all together as you do the job. Works like a charm. I installed FJ springs and 5100's. I put the fronts on 1.75 (I'm using stock UCA's). I put 1.5" spacers on the rear springs. I had to rent a spring compressor ( I had rented it ahead of time just to have it if I needed it) to squeeze the rear coils a little to get them in. I was being very carefully about dropping the axle too much and damaging the flexible section of the brake lines.
The only thing I'm ever really "nervous" about is running into a snag where I will be down over a day. It's my daily driver so when the kids are in school, and the wife is at work, I don't want to be stuck.... but it's a fairly easy job, just a little time consuming.
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Well I spent 8 hours in total yesterday doing my lift, struts plus UCAs and rear coils and shocks, I also removed XREAS. I thought I'd be able to do it in 4 to 5 but buy was I wrong. On Monday I get my tires on so I'll post up photos and a write up In the Lift and Tire Central thread. As it stands, I would not want to do that again I'll be honest, that was hard work. Ran into only 1 stubborn bolt and I basically destroyed my inner CV boots. But that said, not only does it look awesome but it rides almost near stock, I love it.
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You just watched a bunch of videos and then went ahead and tackled it, by yourself? Because that’s awesome! Bet it feels good to have it done! I’m going to hit the bolts and such with penetrating lube tomorrow and perhaps another time during the week, then may start next weekend. Can’t wait to see pics of yours! Congrats on getting it done!
wadle5
New member
Definitely use more than you think. Soak those things until they are dripping and let them sit for as long as possible before you plan to do the job. You will thank yourself later.
I started soaking this past weekend
(Don't even plan on starting the lift process for another week, or so, hahaha)
I'll hit every nut/bolt I can again a few times prior to starting as well.
