Lift Install Questions

[Vansnxtweek]

So I have ordered my Toytec Boss lift and I have some questions..

I have read the instructions they have posted online but I have some more questions.

Do the LCA's need to be loosened during the install to allow the bushings reset in their new position? Same with the rear control arms..does anything need to happen with them during the install?

I opted to hold off on the UCAs for now. Is there anyway I could max out the camber just for the drive to get the alignment done? I have a good distance to drive to get it aligned and I hate to put such strain on everything.

Are there any special tools I need other than the typical stuff? I know getting the coil overs to fit in the front can be a bit of a task. I'm hoping I can work out the bottle jack trick.

Are there any secrets for getting the rear springs in?

Thanks for all the help.

 

[seczdbz]

So I have ordered my Toytec Boss lift and I have some questions..

I have read the instructions they have posted online but I have some more questions.

Do the LCA's need to be loosened during the install to allow the bushings reset in their new position? Same with the rear control arms..does anything need to happen with them during the install?

I opted to hold off on the UCAs for now. Is there anyway I could max out the camber just for the drive to get the alignment done? I have a good distance to drive to get it aligned and I hate to put such strain on everything.

Are there any special tools I need other than the typical stuff? I know getting the coil overs to fit in the front can be a bit of a task. I'm hoping I can work out the bottle jack trick.

Are there any secrets for getting the rear springs in?

Thanks for all the help.

Have the same lift on mine....Can't remember if any of the control arms have to be loosened or not, it's been a couple years since I installed my lift. Its just a simple shock and spring replacement pretty much. DON'T FORGET TO CHECK REAR SPRINGS FOR LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE (they are marked) !!!! I didn't and installed them on the wrong sides and found out the hard way. Other than it's pretty simple and straight forward if you're mechanically inclined. No special tools need but air or power tools help of course.

 

[Hepar]

I think the one tool I didn't have that I had to get was a socket for the rear shocks since it was a larger size (don't remember offhand what size they are). The design of the area around the top bolt made it to where you had to have a medium depth socket. Too shallow or tall and you couldn't get a wrench on it.

 

[Vansnxtweek]

Have the same lift on mine....Can't remember if any of the control arms have to be loosened or not, it's been a couple years since I installed my lift. Its just a simple shock and spring replacement pretty much. DON'T FORGET TO CHECK REAR SPRINGS FOR LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE (they are marked) !!!! I didn't and installed them on the wrong sides and found out the hard way. Other than it's pretty simple and straight forward if you're mechanically inclined. No special tools need but air or power tools help of course.

Thanks for the input! I'll be sure to check and be sure I have the sides correct. That would suck!!

I think the one tool I didn't have that I had to get was a socket for the rear shocks since it was a larger size (don't remember offhand what size they are). The design of the area around the top bolt made it to where you had to have a medium depth socket. Too shallow or tall and you couldn't get a wrench on it.

Thanks !! I actually replaced my shocks not too long ago so I've been through the pain of the top nut. Hope I can get these back loose since I'm sure I tightened the heck out of them haha. Also hope I can compress the new shocks enough to get them in there.

 

[octanejunkie]

Loosening the LCA cam bolts allowing the LCAs to drop makes the install easier (mark position of the cams) but don't tighten them back up in the air, put the vehicle on the ground to tighten

 

[Vansnxtweek]

Loosening the LCA cam bolts allowing the LCAs to drop makes the install easier (mark position of the cams) but don't tighten them back up in the air, put the vehicle on the ground to tighten

I appreciate that! I'll keep that in mind when I go to attempt to get them in there.

 

[96RedRunner]

Loosening the LCA cam bolts allowing the LCAs to drop makes the install easier (mark position of the cams) but don't tighten them back up in the air, put the vehicle on the ground to tighten

Octane, everyone says this but it's so much easier to get to things you need to tighten with the tires off front or rear.
You can use your floor or bottle jack to preload the suspension as if vehicle is on its wheels with tires off, makes it so much easier.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

Mark your alignment tabs with a colored marker or a little bit of paint for a reference before you loosen your LCA. In case they move, you might be able to get it close to spec when you tighten them back up. I did my 5th gen without loosening LCA, but I'm stubborn lol.

 

[mtbtim]

The video below will help you out. For the front, I not only loosen the LCA bolts but I disconnect the lower balljoint and the outer tie rod to allow extra movement in the LCA. It makes it easier to get the OEM coilover out and the new one in because the lower shock bolt is easier to get lined up with the bolt hole.

You can do a sort of driveway alignment, but from experience, not only the camber will be off, the toe will be off as well. It's weird, you think you have it right, you back up, and the camber changes dramatically one way, you drive forward and changes dramatically the other way. I've seen this happen on Eric's truck we did the video on, my buddy's Tacoma I put a Toytec lift on and on my 98 3rd Gen I put a Sonoran Steel lift on. After several attempts to try to dial in the camber, I gave up and just drove it to a Firestone shop to get an alignment that luckily is pretty close to my house. It drove like total shit. If you have a real long way to go, I'd actually consider getting it towed if you have a AAA membership. If you don't have a AAA membership, consider getting one.

For the rear control arms, after the lift it is good to reset them by loosening both front and rear bolts to take tension off the bushings and then re-torque them. You want to the weight of the rig on the wheels before torquing the bolts to spec.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/yXjioXyZa_M" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[phattyduck]

Octane, everyone says this but it's so much easier to get to things you need to tighten with the tires off front or rear.
You can use your floor or bottle jack to preload the suspension as if vehicle is on its wheels with tires off, makes it so much easier.

The rear is easy - just set the axle down on jack stands after the spring/shock install, bounce, then tighten the link nuts/bolts. For the front, you can set the truck down with the wheels installed but put them up on wood blocks to get some extra room underneath. That doesn't help much with the upper control arm though, if you loosened the pivot bolt (which, ideally you should).

-Charlie

 

[WheelinGypsy]

No, No, and No. Have someone stand on the rear axle when you get the rear spring in. You can run Stock UCA's no problem.

 

[96RedRunner]

The rear is easy - just set the axle down on jack stands after the spring/shock install, bounce, then tighten the link nuts/bolts. For the front, you can set the truck down with the wheels installed but put them up on wood blocks to get some extra room underneath. That doesn't help much with the upper control arm though, if you loosened the pivot bolt (which, ideally you should).

-Charlie

Rear I do as you stated with tires off, with front I put my jackstands near body mount in line with front door hinge, while installing lift or any suspension work. Take my floor jack lift up on rotors, lugs are installed till frame gets off jackstand 1" or so, bounce it, tighten bolts, that is called preload. That is the same as sitting on the tires and I have access to everthing behind the wheel.
For street cred, I've done 3 lift installs on 96, 1 on 01. 1 FJ, 2 Titan, Super Duty

 

[Vansnxtweek]

Octane, everyone says this but it's so much easier to get to things you need to tighten with the tires off front or rear.
You can use your floor or bottle jack to preload the suspension as if vehicle is on its wheels with tires off, makes it so much easier.

I have often wondered myself how on earth you tighten some of this stuff with it on the ground but the reasoning behind it does make sense to me.

Mark your alignment tabs with a colored marker or a little bit of paint for a reference before you loosen your LCA. In case they move, you might be able to get it close to spec when you tighten them back up. I did my 5th gen without loosening LCA, but I'm stubborn lol.

Hahahah I'm stubborn too! I think I may try without first and if I have no luck I'll get to loosening. Have to get an alignment anyways.

The video below will help you out. For the front, I not only loosen the LCA bolts but I disconnect the lower balljoint and the outer tie rod to allow extra movement in the LCA. It makes it easier to get the OEM coilover out and the new one in because the lower shock bolt is easier to get lined up with the bolt hole.

You can do a sort of driveway alignment, but from experience, not only the camber will be off, the toe will be off as well. It's weird, you think you have it right, you back up, and the camber changes dramatically one way, you drive forward and changes dramatically the other way. I've seen this happen on Eric's truck we did the video on, my buddy's Tacoma I put a Toytec lift on and on my 98 3rd Gen I put a Sonoran Steel lift on. After several attempts to try to dial in the camber, I gave up and just drove it to a Firestone shop to get an alignment that luckily is pretty close to my house. It drove like total shit. If you have a real long way to go, I'd actually consider getting it towed if you have a AAA membership. If you don't have a AAA membership, consider getting one.

For the rear control arms, after the lift it is good to reset them by loosening both front and rear bolts to take tension off the bushings and then re-torque them. You want to the weight of the rig on the wheels before torquing the bolts to spec.

Tim! Thanks so much for posting that man! I had actually looked through your videos the other night and found the one in which you all installed the 99 tall springs but I hadn't found this one. Freakin' perfect man! I really appreciate the input and all the videos you've done!

The rear is easy - just set the axle down on jack stands after the spring/shock install, bounce, then tighten the link nuts/bolts. For the front, you can set the truck down with the wheels installed but put them up on wood blocks to get some extra room underneath. That doesn't help much with the upper control arm though, if you loosened the pivot bolt (which, ideally you should).

-Charlie

Thanks! I will try that if I end up loosening everything.

No, No, and No. Have someone stand on the rear axle when you get the rear spring in. You can run Stock UCA's no problem.

Thanks...I'm really hoping I can get a non tire shredding/horribly rubbing alignment with the stock UCAs. If not I'm gonna really regret not doing it while I'm in there.

Rear I do as you stated with tires off, with front I put my jackstands near body mount in line with front door hinge, while installing lift or any suspension work. Take my floor jack lift up on rotors, lugs are installed till frame gets off jackstand 1" or so, bounce it, tighten bolts, that is called preload. That is the same as sitting on the tires and I have access to everthing behind the wheel.
For street cred, I've done 3 lift installs on 96, 1 on 01. 1 FJ, 2 Titan, Super Duty

Thanks for the input!

 

[Vansnxtweek]

Finally got my parts! Getting started this week.

 

[repo]

I loosened the UCAs when I did mine and re-tightened when it was back on the ground. I've never had to use a pry bar or bottle jack trick or anything when installing it or other front end jobs after. Made it easy. The LCAs have the alignment adjusters so I left them alone.

 

[jeredcollins]

Definitely following this thread. I’m planning on buying the exact lift. Which rated coil overs did you get? Are you running a bumper or plan on getting one? I was told the 600lb would be good if you didn’t have an aftermarket bumper but would be good as well if I decided to get one. Just curious to see what you’re running

 

[Vansnxtweek]

Definitely following this thread. I’m planning on buying the exact lift. Which rated coil overs did you get? Are you running a bumper or plan on getting one? I was told the 600lb would be good if you didn’t have an aftermarket bumper but would be good as well if I decided to get one. Just curious to see what you’re running

I think most people run the 600lb springs but I don't plan on getting a bumper anytime soon and I saw where someone else got 550s and said it rides great. I also emailed Toytec and if I wasn't sure on the bumper go with 550s for ride. I'm curious to see how it is as well. If I do decide to go with a bumper in the future I'd def. move up to 600s.