Lift Options for Rig That Will Actually Tow

[Mike W]

Good morning guys and gals. THis is my first post here but I am not new to the 4Runner world. When I turned 16 (I'm 25 now) my dad bought me a '98 T4R SR5 that was 4wd with the V6 and 5spd. Only mods we did to it were putting some 265/75/16 Buckshot Mudders on it and sourcing out a factory e-locker to install in the rear, but it was an amazingly capable ride in that form and served me well until junior year of college. Anyways, fast forward in time to December 2013. I have an '05 Accord for my commuter car but wanted to get back into the truck/suv world. It was down to buying either a 3rd gen Cummins or a 4th gen 4Runner (I know, 2 completely different vehicles but I've been around each my entire life). Well I found a nice Cummins first, so I got it.

Now I am realizing I don't need that much vehicle so I plan to sell my '06 Ram 2500 Mega Cab 4x4 later this year and search for a nice '06-'08 T4R that has the V8, 4x4 and leather (I'd prefer a Limited non-XREAS model). The T4R will let me still pull some trailers, go hunting, off-road way more than the 8500 lb beast of a Mega Cab, and fit my needs quite well. I will be keeping my '05 Accord for commuting. I'm going ahead and planning out the lift, which brings me to my question:

I'm going to get a V8 for the power and towing ability (the MPGs, timing belt vs. chain, and full time 4wd vs part time 4wd doesn't matter to me). I will occasionally tow boats ranging from 18' v-bottom aluminum to a 21' center console for offshore (max weight of 4500-5000 lbs depending on fuel load), 12' utility trailers with a mower or ATV, etc.

But I want to lift this rig 2.5"-3" (doing it right and installing UCAs and possibly even a 1" body lift). My question is what rear lift options would be best for a 4th gen V8 4x4 that will occasionally tow some decent weight? I would like an option that will not squat like a baja racing pre-runner about to launch off a huge jump. I know some squat will occur, but you all know what I'm getting at.

Does anyone have info on what lift options are best suited for 4th gens that will actually tow a dozen or so times per year?

I thank you in advance and I'm glad to have found this site...lots of good info.

-Mike

 

[wnelax04sr5]

as far as the best rear lift options for towing.

you could go a couple different routes, either with OME 895 or 896 coils, which are higher spring rate and stiffer for load capacity. I personally have the icon 2" coils and they ride excellent unloaded but hardly squat under normal loads. The best option for towing regardless of coil is to get airlift 1000 airbags for inside the coils, they will help level the load and provide a more stable ride, especially when plumbed independent of one another.

 

[aha2988]

To bad your not looking for an 03-05 model v8 I'd almost consider trading you for the cummins..

When i originally purchased I was in the same scenario looking at either a cummins or a 4runner. I went with the 4runner as I didnt see myself needing to tow all that often to justify the cummins. Now I find myself wanting to tow a bit more. (mainly I just want to tow my 4runner to off-road parks lol)

anywho.. I had good towing experiences with the OME heavy duty 3" lift with the 896 rear heavy load coils. It was rough without a tow load though. I had the heavy duty front coils as well without a bumper or winch at the time so it could have possibly become smoother had I weighed the front down to a proper preload spec of those coils.

Either way those rear 896 ome coils will put your rear up 3" and not squat excessively when you hook up to a trailer.





Pics from before I had 4.56 gears w/ lockers, and still had the OME lift kit installed. It will get the job done, but I know for fact if I had to tow daily or regular loads of 5k plus pounds I'd rather have a diesel. Its just nice to stay ahead of traffic and not have to work as hard to get up to speed.

 

[sasha11]

The V-8 with RAS is best for towing, I have that and a 3 inch lift. See my thread "I easily added a lift to RAS" somewhere in here. If you can't find one with RAS, add an Airlift system to assist your suspension on a 4Runner with a V-8. Even with 285/70/17 tires there's no issue with torque.

 

[Mike W]

Thank you for the information. I really like the idea of adjustable coil-overs up front so I may just piece together my own lift with ToyTec coilovers and OME 896 rears...or just go the full ToyTec Ultimate kit and add air bags to the rear, but that would be more cost for bags, air compressor, etc (I'd prefer a compressor on board vs. just having the schrader valves and using an air chuck). Then again, an OME complete kit with 886 front and 896 rear coils for the full 3" lift can't ride as bad as an unloaded Mega Cab with those stiff rear leafs lol

If anyone else has info I'd love to hear it. Thanks again

 

[aha2988]

Thank you for the information. I really like the idea of adjustable coil-overs up front so I may just piece together my own lift with ToyTec coilovers and OME 896 rears...or just go the full ToyTec Ultimate kit and add air bags to the rear, but that would be more cost for bags, air compressor, etc (I'd prefer a compressor on board vs. just having the schrader valves and using an air chuck). Then again, an OME complete kit with 886 front and 896 rear coils for the full 3" lift can't ride as bad as an unloaded Mega Cab with those stiff rear leafs lol

If anyone else has info I'd love to hear it. Thanks again

I'd go towards the piecing your own lift together route.

The coilovers up front will provide a nicer ride. Plus rear coils are inexpensive enough that you can swap out different options and dial in the ride the way you need it.

If the 896's are to stiff you can just switch over to All pro 3.5" lift coils, drop down to the 895's, or look at metal tech's progressive coil springs. The front end is pretty straight forward, pick the spring rate (650-700lb per inch seems to be the ticket on the V8's) then set the ride height with the adjusting collar. The rear shocks are mainly just ride preference (ofcourse they need to be the right length pending the coil spring basically you don't want the shocks to be the limiting factor of the suspension travel)

 

[MarkinWMich]

Agree with the stiffer coils and gears.

Other things to consider:

Tires...The 4Runners came with the wimpy P-rated tires. I'd suggest a stiffer sidewall offered by a light truck (LT) or C-rated tire.

Be conservative with your lift to maintain proper front ball joint angles, and if towing, consider a differential drop kit to maintain CV axle angles in a "safer" range, especially if under load.

Urethane sway bar bushings (F/R), front swaybar drop kit, and seriously consider extended length rear swaybar links to reduce binding/correct geometry. (These are usually homemade/custom with the 4th gens right now). The factory tow package comes with a larger rear sway bar (17 vs 21mm).

With a lift, you'll need a hitch with a drop. My '06 came with a useless hitch (ball shaft hole is way too big for even the largest hitch ball) and a 7-pin electrical connector. You may need an adapter.

 

[Tx9812valve]

Exact same reason I got my 04 v8. If you are going to tow heavy getting a set of air bags is your best bet. I have icon coils in the front and icon piggy backs with airlift bags inside allpro fj coils in the rear. It floats over all the crap with the bags deflated for normal driving. To be honest, it's almost just as smooth with the bags pumped up towing a 6k lb trailer. It was also more much more stable with the bags inflated, I was impressed. Having said that, nothing will pull like your Cummins. I have a 98 12valve Cummins lifted on 38s with some fun stuff under the hood that I can't quite bring myself to part with. Both are awesome trucks but the Cummins just can't quite get back in the tight spots the way the t4r can. Good luck

 

[aha2988]

lol you guys are killin me with all this talk of cummins.. and 12valves..money.. ugghhhh

 

[CXS]

I have an OME all-round and haul a trailer regularly with no issues. You didn't mention the weight you'll be pulling but a good load distributing hitch makes a big difference.

 

[Mike W]

Thank you all for the great info. As for front lift, I'm already factoring in some Light Racing UCAs to alleviate ball joint/alignment issues. I'd definitely go with D rated tires just to have better load carrying capacity vs C rated or lower tires. And that is great info on the links, bushings, etc.

Another tow related question: it seems most people who do a 3/2 lift don't worry about a longer rear track bar. Would one be needed considering I do plan to tow?

Reason I ask is my previous 3rd gen 4Runner was not lifted (I did tow with it some, but nothing major). I am wondering if loading the rear up with tongue weight with a stock track bar vs. extended length track bar has any ill effects. Obviously air bags firm/stabilize the towing ride, but I didn't want to unintentionally induce some odd towing behavior by not installing certain parts.

 

[ebg18t]

I run the OME 895's and tow 4500-5000# regularly. But I do use a BlueOx weight distribution system.

The 896 are 75% stiffer than stock, the 895 are 40% stiffer. I might suggest the 895 + airbag to get the best of both.

In reality the 886F/896R will still probably ride better than the other truck.

 

[wnelax04sr5]

Exact same reason I got my 04 v8. If you are going to tow heavy getting a set of air bags is your best bet. I have icon coils in the front and icon piggy backs with airlift bags inside allpro fj coils in the rear. It floats over all the crap with the bags deflated for normal driving. To be honest, it's almost just as smooth with the bags pumped up towing a 6k lb trailer. It was also more much more stable with the bags inflated, I was impressed. Having said that, nothing will pull like your Cummins. I have a 98 12valve Cummins lifted on 38s with some fun stuff under the hood that I can't quite bring myself to part with. Both are awesome trucks but the Cummins just can't quite get back in the tight spots the way the t4r can. Good luck

pics please

 

[aha2988]

Thank you all for the great info. As for front lift, I'm already factoring in some Light Racing UCAs to alleviate ball joint/alignment issues. I'd definitely go with D rated tires just to have better load carrying capacity vs C rated or lower tires. And that is great info on the links, bushings, etc.

Another tow related question: it seems most people who do a 3/2 lift don't worry about a longer rear track bar. Would one be needed considering I do plan to tow?

Reason I ask is my previous 3rd gen 4Runner was not lifted (I did tow with it some, but nothing major). I am wondering if loading the rear up with tongue weight with a stock track bar vs. extended length track bar has any ill effects. Obviously air bags firm/stabilize the towing ride, but I didn't want to unintentionally induce some odd towing behavior by not installing certain parts.

The track bar keeps the rear wheels aligned with the vehicle. When lifting these just 2-3 inches it doesn't throw off the alignment terribly enough to require an adjustable track bar; however, it does throw off the alignment lol.. its a preference thing. If you want a zero degree thrust angle and zero degree toe angle on the rear axle then you would want go with adjustable control arms and track bar aka panhard bar. For what its worth I believe my rear axle is at a .35 degree thrust angle and has a total toe of .25 degrees. This certainly effects tire wear but not to the point where I'm worried about it if that makes since.

on the front upper control arm deal, you'll find a lot of guys here that have been running the LR UCA's have found them to be problematic. Issues consisting of short ball joint life, bushing design causing the main mount bolt to become loose, and even have seen one member have the control arm itself crack. I run them and they are working for me, as well the company has honored their warranty of the product twice now with one ball joint replacement and just recently replacing both entire control arms. Even with that I still recommend going with TC, Icon or camburg UCA's. Again the LR UCA's will work just don't hold them to high expectations as I don't believe I would refer to anything about them being "racing" quality as the name may imply.

 

[Mike W]

I run the OME 895's and tow 4500-5000# regularly. But I do use a BlueOx weight distribution system.

The 896 are 75% stiffer than stock, the 895 are 40% stiffer. I might suggest the 895 + airbag to get the best of both.

In reality the 886F/896R will still probably ride better than the other truck.

That is more what I am leaning towards - not the heaviest spring rating for a better ride, but have the airbags for when the load does make it squat.

Question on these airbags if you all don't mind: I've read several statements that airbags added to a stock rear coil (no lift, no spacers, etc) will give 3/4" lift at max inflated pressure of around 35 psi. So does that mean if I install a 2" lift spring in the rear, do these air bags only "work" when that extra 2" (or whatever extra length the lift coil is over the stock coil) is taken out of the suspension in the form of squatting under load?

I've used air bags on our diesels on the farm before, but never in a lifted coil spring suspension, thus the reason for trying to wrap my head around how they work when loaded or not loaded.

 

[Mike W]

The track bar keeps the rear wheels aligned with the vehicle. When lifting these just 2-3 inches it doesn't throw off the alignment terribly enough to require an adjustable track bar; however, it does throw off the alignment lol.. its a preference thing. If you want a zero degree thrust angle and zero degree toe angle on the rear axle then you would want go with adjustable control arms and track bar aka panhard bar. For what its worth I believe my rear axle is at a .35 degree thrust angle and has a total toe of .25 degrees. This certainly effects tire wear but not to the point where I'm worried about it if that makes since.

on the front upper control arm deal, you'll find a lot of guys here that have been running the LR UCA's have found them to be problematic. Issues consisting of short ball joint life, bushing design causing the main mount bolt to become loose, and even have seen one member have the control arm itself crack. I run them and they are working for me, as well the company has honored their warranty of the product twice now with one ball joint replacement and just recently replacing both entire control arms. Even with that I still recommend going with TC, Icon or camburg UCA's. Again the LR UCA's will work just don't hold them to high expectations as I don't believe I would refer to anything about them being "racing" quality as the name may imply.

Thank you for that first hand info. I will definitely look into the higher quality UCAs and factor that added cost into my budget.

 

[aha2988]

Thank you for that first hand info. I will definitely look into the higher quality UCAs and factor that added cost into my budget.

not a problem man, welcome to the forum and happy hunting for your next 4runner!

 

[Tx9812valve]

That is more what I am leaning towards - not the heaviest spring rating for a better ride, but have the airbags for when the load does make it squat.

Question on these airbags if you all don't mind: I've read several statements that airbags added to a stock rear coil (no lift, no spacers, etc) will give 3/4" lift at max inflated pressure of around 35 psi. So does that mean if I install a 2" lift spring in the rear, do these air bags only "work" when that extra 2" (or whatever extra length the lift coil is over the stock coil) is taken out of the suspension in the form of squatting under load?

I've used air bags on our diesels on the farm before, but never in a lifted coil spring suspension, thus the reason for trying to wrap my head around how they work when loaded or not loaded.

Attached a couple pics of the air bags with the 4runner totally unloaded. The first should be at 0 psi and the second at 35psi. To answer your question, yes you need to take out a little slack in the springs for the bags to work but that makes mine sit fairly level with a load.

Also attached a pic of the Cummins as requested. Haven't attached pics before so hope they work

 

[Mike W]

Thanks for the pics man, that explains everything very well.

And nice 12v you've got...those things run forever. We sold a '93 12v back in '03 that had over 320k on it, and the guy who bought it now has over 500k on it and still pulls his camper with it all over the US

 

[aha2988]

Thats what I had through highschool, a 93 12v..250 baby haha miss that truck like crazy! had a a good bit of goodies on it as well running 35's dana 70 rear 60 front... ugghhhh!!! I'll have to purchase another one of these days