Lifted alignment specs?

[Coopsdaddy]

I have a 2000 with toytec ultimate,running 255/75/17 st maxx.I just installed new inner and outer tie rods and need to check alignment.Im going to a toyota dealer tomarrow and need advise on some Alignment numbers,sadly i dont trust them or any dealer enough to take there word.I just want to be informed prior. Thanks

 

[Endlessblockades]

I have a 2000 with toytec ultimate,running 255/75/17 st maxx.I just installed new inner and outer tie rods and need to check alignment.Im going to a toyota dealer tomarrow and need advise on some Alignment numbers,sadly i dont trust them or any dealer enough to take there word.I just want to be informed prior. Thanks

I couldn't tell you about alignment specs, as it's a bit of black art to me, but I can't imagine what a dealer is going to charge you and I wonder if you'll get a tech with any lifted-vehicle experience. I get aligned anytime I make a geometry change, get new tires or get sideswiped by a couple old hood geezers with no insurance. What I came to say, however, is that I use a $50 Groupon for $100 of alignment service coupled with their $10 off coupon they push if you don't use Groupon much. The techs at my local discount tire chain "Big-O Tires" happen to have 4x4s and seem to do a good job. That's $40 out the door for a 4 wheel alignment. Again I have no idea what the printout really means but it's all green and good and I feel like I did the right thing. I would be interested what the dealer does and how much they charge.....

 

[Devbot]

If they can't get your vehicle within spec, they'll tell you and usually give you a chart showing where and by how much. It's a liability thing. If they put your vehicle dangerously out of spec, didn't tell you, and say a tie rod snapped and caused you to crash into another driver as a result - whose ass is it gonna be? Not yours, I'll tell you that much.
Really, you should get a spec sheet regardless if it's in or out of spec. If they try and send you on your way without one, ask for a copy. If you try to ask for one after you leave, they may not have kept your info and you'll probably stay empty handed, so try to remember before you take off.

 

[Dom8706]

From what I've read on the forum you want to get your caster as close to 3.5 degrees as possible and I think everything else within spec. That's just what I've heard though.

 

[shadow247]

Don't go to the dealer. Go to Firestone for the Lifetime Alignment Service. Bring it in every 6k or 6 months for free realignment. I got 6 alignments on my previous 3rd Gen for 159 bucks (discounted because I sold them parts from the dealer counter), but even at full price it would have been worth every penny.

I will never pay anyone else for an alignment. If I was unhappy with the way it drives, despite being "green" they were happy to make adjustments.

As correctly stated by a previous poster, the specs don't change just because you get a lift. The specs my truck was aligned with are as follows:

Toe / 0 to .20 degrees
Camber / -.6 to .9 degrees
Caster / 1.7 to 3.2 degrees

You want you're left and right camber and caster readings to be within .5 degrees of one another side to side.

When you lift, your alignment angles change. Caster is the angle that is unrecoverable with stock UCAs. The higher you go the more caster you lose. Camber can be somewhat of a problem also because it is changed with the same adjuster that adjusts caster. Usually after adjusting camber, (it's more important to get within spec because it's more of a tire wearing angle than caster) you end up with somewhere around .2 to 1.5 degrees of caster. This causes steering wander, bump steer and difficulty of steering to return to center after turning a corner. Hope this helps.

 

[Malcolm99]

Post #9 by JRZEE2000T4RLTD says the same thing as shadow247 here in post #9 verbatim, but I'v seen specific numbers to shot for, I know Steve gave me specific numbers for my 1.2Lift but can't find that info yet as I need to do the same after replacing LCA bushings and adjusters, no wonder everyone has trouble with alignments, those buggers seize after awhile. I think it was 0 toe, 0 camber and as much positive caster as possible to push the bigger tires farther forward.

Lifted 3rd Gen Recommended Alignment Specs?