Guys, I tried to see if anyone would/could do this and got mostly radio silence. I called some local stereo shops to see if they could do this and was told they weren't interested. I do a fair amount of towing and usually am prepping at night before going out the next day. I have to go through some manual opening ranch gates (at night) and am in need of a way to light up the area behind my 4R with the backup lights. I don't want external/removable units. After going through a gate or while loading the trailer I just want to have that rear area lit up. Does anyone have some ideas? Tonight I have to go through 2 gates to get a zero turn and they cannot be left open due to animals using the pasture... then I have to go back through the same 2 gates on the way out... at night... any help with a solution would be very appreciated.
Lighting and Ranch Gates
- Thread starter KF4R2011
- Start date
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Toffees
Member
Why not something like these small Baja lights ? (or there are maybe hundreds of alternatives.)
LED Auxiliary Lights | High Quality LED Lighting | LED Lights Off-Road | Baja Designs
Install these in the rear, wire them to a switch added to your dash. I'm sure there are pictures of rigs here with such mounted, a little search might give you some good ideas.
Both rear light assemblies are fairly easy to access behind panels. The safest option would probably be a double pole double throw relay, where one channel uses the NC terminal to keep the stock functionality, and the other channel uses NO to trigger the lights. Then you'd need to run wires up under the dash - people have used add-a-fuse to tap off the AUX fuse above the pedals, and you can buy switches that snap into the dash online.
Not knowing your level of expertise, let me know if you want me to go into more detail on any of the pieces.
EDIT: I guess you could also use a normal relay, with the stock wiring through NC and the same +12 signal going to the switch and the NO - that will keep from any weird loops happening. This was all assuming one side - you'd want one on each side. I've run wires across the top of the back, it's pretty easy - just pop the plastic fasteners in the headliner off, and potentially the trim pieces on the back piller - you'll have enough room to shove things around.
The mainentance doc that's floating around has connector layouts, if you want to try to build this as a pigtail that goes between the stock plug and the light - then it would be reversible if you sell it.
I might actually try to do this at some point, now that I've thought about it a bit. I'll post here if I do.
Not knowing your level of expertise, let me know if you want me to go into more detail on any of the pieces.
EDIT: I guess you could also use a normal relay, with the stock wiring through NC and the same +12 signal going to the switch and the NO - that will keep from any weird loops happening. This was all assuming one side - you'd want one on each side. I've run wires across the top of the back, it's pretty easy - just pop the plastic fasteners in the headliner off, and potentially the trim pieces on the back piller - you'll have enough room to shove things around.
The mainentance doc that's floating around has connector layouts, if you want to try to build this as a pigtail that goes between the stock plug and the light - then it would be reversible if you sell it.
I might actually try to do this at some point, now that I've thought about it a bit. I'll post here if I do.
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[MENTION=96425]JSparky[/MENTION] - want to maintain stock look... no addons if possible [MENTION=139030]keph13[/MENTION] - I work in a mechanical design department so I'm familiar with what you're saying.... I just don't normally do the soldering/wiring/practical side of the job.
JSparky
New member
Got it, so regardless of mounting location it’s really the wiring that’s the barrier?
Seems like there’s gotta be an independent electrician who can do this near you, especially if you provide a complete, fused and relayed harness.
For a single light the wiring is super simple. If you order from a reputable brand they’ll include a nice relayed wiring harness, although for a rear mount you may have to lengthen the leads (or specify a custom length).
Maybe give CE a buzz, I’ve worked with this group several times and I highly recommend them. Tell them what you want to do and they should be able to put together a custom harness. LED Light Relay Kits – CE Auto Electric Supply
This group should also work with you, never used them but I’ve heard good things, maybe others can chime in. They have OEM style switches for a clean install. Wiring Harness - Single Leg– Cali Raised LED
If you were in the bay area I’d help ya out, with all the parts this would be an easy install. Trickiest part would be deciding how to mount the lights to the interior of the ceiling. You’d have to pull the headliner down to see if there are any studs or brackets you can utilize. This sounds like a fun project!
Seems like there’s gotta be an independent electrician who can do this near you, especially if you provide a complete, fused and relayed harness.
For a single light the wiring is super simple. If you order from a reputable brand they’ll include a nice relayed wiring harness, although for a rear mount you may have to lengthen the leads (or specify a custom length).
Maybe give CE a buzz, I’ve worked with this group several times and I highly recommend them. Tell them what you want to do and they should be able to put together a custom harness. LED Light Relay Kits – CE Auto Electric Supply
This group should also work with you, never used them but I’ve heard good things, maybe others can chime in. They have OEM style switches for a clean install. Wiring Harness - Single Leg– Cali Raised LED
If you were in the bay area I’d help ya out, with all the parts this would be an easy install. Trickiest part would be deciding how to mount the lights to the interior of the ceiling. You’d have to pull the headliner down to see if there are any studs or brackets you can utilize. This sounds like a fun project!
Skip the relay and just use a simple diode to prevent any possible back flow to the reverse light controller while energizing the second switched wire. It’s probably not needed but it’s a super cheap part for some piece of mind.
cb1111
Member
I'm not sure that any lights the back of your 4R will help. Depending on the trailer, you may need lights on the back of that.
As I understand what you do, is drive up to the gate, open it (you need to light up the front), drive through, stop and close the gate (you need lights at the rear) and repeat at the second gate.
Disregarding your other desires (hidden, looks stock etc.), I'd think that you need some sort of a spotlight in the front and some light bar on the trailer.
If you agree with those "needs", then let's see if the collective group here an figure out how to hide them.
Rightside Up
New member
I would cut the bumper and put in small LEDs.
One towards the end of each bumper.
Also I imagine he needs the lights to make sure livestock isn’t going to
be heading out the gate behind him as he goes through.
One towards the end of each bumper.
Also I imagine he needs the lights to make sure livestock isn’t going to
be heading out the gate behind him as he goes through.
STX4Runner
New member
Not trying to be sarcastic or an ass, but why not just keep it simple and get a headlamp for like $20.
I don't think you'd be able to mount something on the 4Runner that would shine bright enough to cast enough light over a trailer unless you get a rear facing lightbar. And unless the 2014+ reverse lights are better than my 2010's they will be worthless as task lighting.
I don't think you'd be able to mount something on the 4Runner that would shine bright enough to cast enough light over a trailer unless you get a rear facing lightbar. And unless the 2014+ reverse lights are better than my 2010's they will be worthless as task lighting.
When I have a trailer, it’s a flat utility type that only comes up maybe to the brake lights and is totally open. With or Without a trailer the reverse lights are plenty bright to help with illuminating the gate I passed though so I can reattach the chain. A headlamp could work for some things but it will not work when loading my 60” zero turn into the trailer at night. I need to see the deck as I load. I mow for a side job. So I work my day job Friday, that night I load up to mow.
Yes. Each time go through a gate it must be immediately closed in order to not let cows out. [MENTION=327840]ForRun[/MENTION] the trailer would block those. The lights need to be at least at the level of the taillight assemblies
Yes. Each time go through a gate it must be immediately closed in order to not let cows out. [MENTION=327840]ForRun[/MENTION] the trailer would block those. The lights need to be at least at the level of the taillight assemblies
cb1111
Member
Doesn't everything fall out?
MaddoxPics
New member
I have a set of baja S2's in my bumper. Easily screwed in with no issue. Then ran the wiring harnesses they came with straight to my sPod. You more than likely don't have one, but with the harness you should be able to just run it straight to the battery and the switch into the cabin.
Honestly I used to be scared of wiring, but there are so many ways to get around soldering and stuff now that you shouldn't be. For instance you can use these and it's a solder/shrink combo: Amazon.com: Kuject 120PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Self-Solder Heat Shrink Butt Connector Waterproof Insulated Electrical Butt Splice Wire Terminals for Marine Automotive Aircraft Boat Truck Stereo Wire Joint: Automotive
Honestly I used to be scared of wiring, but there are so many ways to get around soldering and stuff now that you shouldn't be. For instance you can use these and it's a solder/shrink combo: Amazon.com: Kuject 120PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Self-Solder Heat Shrink Butt Connector Waterproof Insulated Electrical Butt Splice Wire Terminals for Marine Automotive Aircraft Boat Truck Stereo Wire Joint: Automotive
ForRun
New member
Mount auxiliary lights on the back or anywhere else on the trailer. the wires to power it are already hot at the 7pin connector. easy and done
ForRun
New member
Provided your trailer is using the 4pin connector?? That would leave a couple options.
Tap the ground for the (-) wire, then put a weather tight switch on the trailer itself for the (12vt charging) wire. turn lights on/off at the trailer?
Not always wise but I've done it to test trailer reverse. Put the em brake on and put runner in reverse, tap the backup light center pin for the (+) wire
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