Lilliput Question?!?

[aznguile972]

I am interested in the "carputer" project after reading the forums here and at mp3car.com.

My question is: I plan on buying the Lilliput 7" Touch Screen and I want to install both a DVD HU and the PC to it. I plan on putting the DVD HU (which connects to all my factory speakers) in the glove box which makes it accessible to watch and play both DVD's and CD's and radio. Basically, the HU would be the control center of the whole system. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I noticed that in order to use the touch screen function, you have to connect it to the PC using the USB port. But, in order to use the RCA inputs on the Lilliput, you need the USB port. If so, I need to redesign my wiring diagram (I'll put a picture of my wiring diagram for everyone to see when I get home). Any suggestions?

 

[rando]

The Lilliput touchscreen controller has no relationship to the composite (RCA) or VGA inputs. In fact, it's not even electrically connected in any way to the rest of the Lilliput's electronics.

About the only problem you might have with your planned setup is switching back and forth between the computer and your DVD HU. There's no automated way to do that with the Lilliput so you'll have to push the buttons or use the remote to switch between Video1/Video2/VGA.

Alternatively, you can route the HU output through your carPC with a video capture device and that way have everything controlled by your PC though that would kind of defeat the purpose of having a seperate DVD HU. You might also consider just getting a DVD drive for the PC and ditching the whole HU thing.

Ultimately, you'll get more advice and answers to these types of questions over at mp3car.com than you will here since there aren't too many people here with carpcs. I think roleary(aka KScott) and one other might have started/done it.

 

[aznguile972]

Thanks for the reply rando!

I wanted to get a DVD HU instead of DVD-ROM for several reasons:

1. I don't have to rewire all my speakers to an amp.
2. The HU already has AM/FM radio. (no need for another antenna)
3. I won't have to pull over to change out a DVD.
4. I don't want to cut into the dashboard to install a DVD-ROM since my computer is going to be in the back.
5. I'm also thinking about adding a switch that turns on/off the power supply to the computer when not in use.

Overall, I think the HU is going to be cheaper since I can prolly get one for about 125.00/shipped.

 

[MickeyMouse]

Not sure how I ran across this thread, but this sounds interesting. What are you using as a CPU init? Are you using the VIA mini mainboard? What are you using as an OS, Microsoft or Linux?

 

[rando]

1. I don't have to rewire all my speakers to an amp.

You don't have to rewire your speakers. You just have to run wires from your amp to the dash and then use an aftermarket wiring harness to plug into the OEM radio connectors. I put my amp under the seat and I'd say this part of the wiring was easily the simplest part of my install.

2. The HU already has AM/FM radio. (no need for another antenna)

AM/FM is definitely something to consider when doing a carpc. Currently there aren't any PC radio tuners known to work reliably in an a car. The anntenna run however isn't a concern though. No matter what kind of radio you get, you can use the OEM antenna.

3. I won't have to pull over to change out a DVD.

Umm...your HU is going in the glove box? That's a tough reach while driving. In any case, if that works for you, there's no reason you couldn't put the PC DVD drive in the glove box.

4. I don't want to cut into the dashboard to install a DVD-ROM since my computer is going to be in the back.

Why would you have to cut the dash? If the HU fits in the glove box, so too will a pc DVD drive. Take a look at some of the laptop sized drives with USB enclosers. They are small.

5. I'm also thinking about adding a switch that turns on/off the power supply to the computer when not in use.

Depending on how you power your carpc, you will or will not need this. If you use a DC/DC supply with integrated shutdown controller, it will take care of proper power sequencing. You may still want a manual override switch -- just in case. I added one into one of the dummy switch inserts in the center console.

Overall, I think the HU is going to be cheaper since I can prolly get one for about 125.00/shipped.

True, a HU will be cheaper than buying a PC DVD drive, amplifier, and PC radio solution. On the other hand, an HU in the glove box probably isn't going to fit nicely nor look the best unless you're willing to some fairly heavy modding to that area of your dash. Don't forget you have an airbag above the glove box and also the air filter cleaner is behind there so you'll want to preserve the ability to access that part of your dash without ripping out your system.

UPDATE: just noticed your sig says you have a 3rd gen. I have no idea if you have the cabin filter or airbag.

 

[rando]

Not sure how I ran across this thread, but this sounds interesting. What are you using as a CPU init? Are you using the VIA mini mainboard? What are you using as an OS, Microsoft or Linux?

I'm not sure what the OP plans to use. To see more about my install, click the CarPC link in my sig.

 

[MickeyMouse]

LOL This is the coolest mod I've seen yet. Good job. I've grabbed a copy of the thread for future reference... we have 4 PC's and two Laptops in our home that we LAN game with our teens. I'm always running into extra parts, I'll have to keep this in mind.

It would be so cool to have all 5GB of my mp3's and our home videos (I make music videos of our kids and burn them to DVD) in the truck.

How is bootup time? Does it boot up everytime you start the truck or do you have some sort of power switch to over ride? What if you are just running down to the market, does it get booted up in time?

What a great idea!

 

[rando]

Boot is controlled by you and depends on your setup and what you want. I use a special DC/DC power supply that implements the power sequencing so that the PC boots up a few seconds after I turn the key to ON. When I turn the key to off the supply sends a shutdown signal to the PC and the PC initiates a clean shutdown which in turn turns everything off. If the PC fails to shutdown, the supply will eventually time-out and just kill it to prevent battery drain. I've highly optimized my Windows XP install to get cold boot times down to around 19 seconds -- so yah, there is still some delay but it's not unbearable.

Some people configure their setups so the PC sits in standby all the time until their battery gets low and then it hibernates. This allows them to have near instant access to the carpc (resume from standby is typically about a second or two). I don't like this kind of solution because I believe it will result in premature battery failure -- lead acid car batteries don't like being in any state except full.

Another alternative to improve startup time is to use hibernation upon shutdown. Resume from hibernation, if tuned, can be done in 5-10 seconds.

Ultimately, it's up to you. That's one of the best parts of this hobby. You can have whatever you want. You're in control.

 

[MickeyMouse]

Do you mind if I use this thread to ask you questions about this time to time as I work on my own setup?

btw - I would probably use Win2k because I have a license to it and like it better anyway. I would shut off as many services as possible, but I would also do a wireless card because we have wireless in our home, that way I could send things to it over our little LAN. I would also plan to do the cold boot, I can't get backed out of the garage in 19 seconds (my Wife is always a little slow gettin' in). I wouldn't want it to boot on it's own, I would want a micro-switch that I initiated.

This sounds like a nice little project for the new year.

 

[MickeyMouse]

What did you mount all of this to and where do you plan to put it once completed? It looks like it would fit under the seat?

 

[rando]

Are you asking me now or the OP? If you're referring to my system, please post in my thread -- I don't want to hijack this one.

 

[aznguile972]

Sorry it took so long to post the wiring diagram but here it is...

I already have some of the parts and these are some of the cheapest prices I could find on the ones I don't have yet. I'm also thinking about mounting my PC inside the storage compartment in the cargo area that way I don't have to buy a case (on a budget...).

Do you mind if I use this thread to ask you questions about this time to time as I work on my own setup?

I don't have a problem if you ask questions on this thread but I would suggest browsing the forums here and over at mp3car.com (Rando has some detailed info along with pics of the install on his thread - been a great help for me).

Boot is controlled by you and depends on your setup and what you want. I use a special DC/DC power supply that implements the power sequencing so that the PC boots up a few seconds after I turn the key to ON. When I turn the key to off the supply sends a shutdown signal to the PC and the PC initiates a clean shutdown which in turn turns everything off. If the PC fails to shutdown, the supply will eventually time-out and just kill it to prevent battery drain. I've highly optimized my Windows XP install to get cold boot times down to around 19 seconds -- so yah, there is still some delay but it's not unbearable.

Yea, you can minimize the Windows XP down to about 500MB and boot times roughly about 20-30 seconds. That's not too bad of a wait for your PC to be up and running.

Why would you have to cut the dash? If the HU fits in the glove box, so too will a pc DVD drive. Take a look at some of the laptop sized drives with USB enclosers. They are small.

Never thought about using a USB enclosure DVD-ROM. Maybe this is something I can integrate into my car later on. Besides, the way I have it now, I can buy the touch screen and HU first.

Depending on how you power your carpc, you will or will not need this. If you use a DC/DC supply with integrated shutdown controller, it will take care of proper power sequencing. You may still want a manual override switch -- just in case. I added one into one of the dummy switch inserts in the center console.

I'm planning on buying the OPUS 120W PSU. I saw somewhere that OPUS now makes a 150W. Do you think I 120W is enough for what I want to do or should I try to get the 150W.

True, a HU will be cheaper than buying a PC DVD drive, amplifier, and PC radio solution. On the other hand, an HU in the glove box probably isn't going to fit nicely nor look the best unless you're willing to some fairly heavy modding to that area of your dash. Don't forget you have an airbag above the glove box and also the air filter cleaner is behind there so you'll want to preserve the ability to access that part of your dash without ripping out your system.

I figure I'd get the wiring harness and its normally long enough to wire to the corner of the glove (I'm hoping). Then, I would just use L-shaped brackets to mount the HU (wishful thinking).

Also, I was watching Pimp My Ride (re-run) today and they pimped a 2005 4-Runner with DirecTV and internet. Maybe that's something you might want to think about in the future. But at $3500, I think I can wait til the prices come down a bit.

http://www.kvh.com/Products/Product.asp?id=79

 

[rando]

I'm planning on buying the OPUS 120W PSU. I saw somewhere that OPUS now makes a 150W. Do you think I 120W is enough for what I want to do or should I try to get the 150W.

Opus only makes a 90W and a 150W supply. If you use a VIA/C3 based board and only a few peripherals you'll be fine with the 90W. The 150W just gives you a bit more headroom to run a couple of desktop drives or a hungrier motherboard. The 90W is a bit smaller and also can be configured to disable standby power when off -- unlike the 150W. With standby power on all the time, there is a possibility of draining your battery. I developed a work-around for the 150W model that I posted over at mp3car.com. I'm not certain if this is systematic or not but there are several posts about people having reliability problems with their 90W models.

Another option is the Carnetix 12V supply combined with one of the cheaper Morex DC/DC power supplies. You need both because the Morex supplies don't regulate the 12V power rail.

If you plan to use a P4 or Athlon based solution, then it's possible that none of these options will work.

BTW, the link didn't work.

 

[aznguile972]

Again, sorry for the delayed post!

This includes everything I want to get so maybe you can understand what I'm trying to do. I want to have it shut down every time I turn off the engine so it doesn't shorten my battery life too much.

 

[rando]

You can't hook your battery directly to one of the morex DC/DC power supplies that fit inside the C137. You either need to use an ITPS (creates new problems) or some external 12V regulator. The Carnetix is a good example. It will also add the automated power sequencing (startup and shutdown) you want/need to make sure you don't drain your battery.