Locking Rear Differential

[penberth]

Thanks

Thanks for this post and the replies. I have a 2014 TEP and was wondering why the rear locker wouldn't engage. I did like what was said with turning the steering wheel ever so slightly, :lookout: and low and behold, the locker engaged.

Thanks again. Might come in handy with all the snow in Buffalo.

 

[Orc]

By the time I have needed the locker i was stuck. I hate e lockers!

 

[NJTrail]

I am glad you got it worked out. I had one weird incident with a dash warning light on the diff locker while driving around town in 2H while I neither expected nor attempted to engage it. Other than that, (and it hasn't repeated) I have noticed that it does not like to engage without a tiny little motion or bit of the gas pedal. But doing that, it engages fine and seems to work fine though easier for mine, it seems, to disengage than engage. Haven't tried the steering wiggle yet but look forward to experimenting.

 

[langutah]

eLocker failure

I have a 2014 TE and the dash indicator for the rear locker would not quit flashing even though I was engaging it per the instructions and tricks the same way that I alway have and it always engaged. The truck has about 60K miles

Dealer diagnosis and successful repair were a replacement of a failed eLocker engaged sensor - an electromechanical device that has a sprung pushrod with a ball bearing on one end that is pushed in by the eLocker actuator or the eLocker itself. It failed off or shorted in the circuit if I remember right.

The sensor is mounted right next to the actuator on the top-front-drivers-side of the diff and hard to get to. The part was $100 and 1.5hours of labor to change for about a $300 bill to replace. Works fine after replacement. You can hear it click hard when engaging and the indicator light stays on.

 

[Hônes]

I have the problem of the red light flashing and never getting locker engagement nor the associated steady red and have gone through all these steps. I took the actuator out of the 3rd member on the axle since so many threads on this topic described the actuator getting stuck. I could engage the locker manually with a screw driver by sliding the fork towards the pinion so that wasn’t stuck. I removed the electric solenoid motor (top black cap with three Phillips head screws) and inspected it and no problems there.

I also disassembled and inspected the gear mechanism that constitutes the majority of the solenoid assembly. No unusual wear, all connectors were tight, all components were clean and greased. With the actuator out, I applied 12V to the large green and green/red wires and the motor turned so it does work. Seems to be a delivery problem.

BTW, I re-installed the locker actuator forgetting to return the motor’s position back to the full ‘locker OFF position’. This will trigger the red flashing light that implies the shifting process is in transit somewhere between full OFF and Engaged. The sensor for this is inside the gearbox of the solenoid. I had to unbolt it and run the gearbox to the unlock position until it hit the stops.

Hope this helps someone who comes across the same situation. Learning about the system as I go! Now it’s time to test whether there’s power or a signal getting to the locker solenoid.

 

[Engineer]

I have the problem ........

Ladies and gentleman of T4R.org - This is what this forum needs more of - the man's 2nd post - he had a problem, he searched the forum, using that knowledge and his own god given hands got them dirty, investigated , documented AND updated a old thread with more information.......f'me I am impressed

Welcome to the forum and stick around! if you are ever in the area look me up, i'll buy you a meal :cheers:

 

[mtnbiker49]

I don't have a '10 TE, but I do have an older 4Runner with the rear locking diff. If I'm just sitting stationary when I push the rear diff. lock button, the splines may or may not be lined up to allow immediate engagement. In that case it just takes rolling along a bit until everything lines up, and the diff lock engages.

This is exactly it. It is fine to crawl along to get it to engage.

 

[Moose545]

Good trick to know, thanks fellas.

 

[downshift]

I have a similar issue and even posted this thread a few weeks ago:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/258575-rear-diff-takes-forever-lock.html

The consensus was it gets easier to lock with more use. There is a road near me with wide dirt shoulders. I've been going there in my spare time and locking and unlocking the rear diff to see if it improves. So far it hasn't. How much use does it take? I've probably locked/unlocked it 100 times by now.

BTW I've tried all the tricks like wiggling the steering wheel going forward and reverse, but no joy.

 

[SwampRunner]

Sometimes the e-locker is hard to engage on my FJ and T4R. I try to engage mine every few months just to keep everything moving in the e-locker. Most of this has already been said one way or another by some others, but to reinforce from my experience -- sometimes it takes about 10-15 feet to lock. It seems to help by steering left and right to get everything to align. This is why you should try to engage the locker BEFORE your really need it -- if you wait until the very last minute you may not be able to get it engaged to get you out of trouble. Problem is I don't always know when I will get into trouble ... but most of the time I know there is a good chance I will need it. I'd rather go in over prepared than under. Kudos for learning how to use it before really needing it!

 

[downshift]

Sometimes the e-locker is hard to engage on my FJ and T4R. I try to engage mine every few months just to keep everything moving in the e-locker. Most of this has already been said one way or another by some others, but to reinforce from my experience -- sometimes it takes about 10-15 feet to lock. It seems to help by steering left and right to get everything to align. This is why you should try to engage the locker BEFORE your really need it -- if you wait until the very last minute you may not be able to get it engaged to get you out of trouble. Problem is I don't always know when I will get into trouble ... but most of the time I know there is a good chance I will need it. I'd rather go in over prepared than under. Kudos for learning how to use it before really needing it!

I agree about not waiting until the last minute to engage it because you might not get it engaged, which is why I'm working on this.

I do everything you mention, but mine takes more like 100 to 150 feet to lock or unlock. I steer left and right, I go forward and reverse, I accelerate and slow down, I even put it in neutral for a moment. 100 to 150 feet seems like too much to me.

 

[SwampRunner]

I agree about not waiting until the last minute to engage it because you might not get it engaged, which is why I'm working on this.

I do everything you mention, but mine takes more like 100 to 150 feet to lock or unlock. I steer left and right, I go forward and reverse, I accelerate and slow down, I even put it in neutral for a moment. 100 to 150 feet seems like too much to me.

I don't think I've ever been able to get it to work while accelerating too much. I have not used the 4Runner e-locker much yet, but have used the FJ (I think very similar) a lot. I've always gotten it to work on the FJ (making sure in 4 lo, etc.) if I can get on a flat surface and barely give any throttle at all (if any throttle). It seems to need to creep along very slowly. I have been in very tricky situations (middle of steep hills, slipping, etc.) where I really needed the e-locker, but could not get it to engage because I think I had to give it too much throttle (should have engaged the e-locker sooner before I got into trouble).

 

[downshift]

I don't think I've ever been able to get it to work while accelerating too much. I have not used the 4Runner e-locker much yet, but have used the FJ (I think very similar) a lot. I've always gotten it to work on the FJ (making sure in 4 lo, etc.) if I can get on a flat surface and barely give any throttle at all (if any throttle). It seems to need to creep along very slowly. I have been in very tricky situations (middle of steep hills, slipping, etc.) where I really needed the e-locker, but could not get it to engage because I think I had to give it too much throttle (should have engaged the e-locker sooner before I got into trouble).

Thank you, I have certainly tried barely giving it any throttle in my attempts. Doesn't seem to make a difference.

 

[Muzzle of Bees]

I find it odd that each vehicle seems to have a different feel for engaging the locker. Mine locks consistently without fail after coasting slowly for about 20 feet after engaging it. You will hear a click when it engages if your windows are down. Same when disengaging.

 

[SwampRunner]

Thank you, I have certainly tried barely giving it any throttle in my attempts. Doesn't seem to make a difference.

Something just doesn't sound right with your e-locker. I've always been able to get my FJ to lock with the slow creep and left/right slow steer (and 4Runner about 6 times now). Sometimes I have to drive a bit longer, but it always seems to work. I've gotten the FJ to lock under other circumstances (faster throttle, spinning in mud, up hills, etc.), but not always reliably. The slow creep, slow left/right, seems to be 100% reliable if I drive far enough (average for me maybe 15 feet, but sometimes shorter, sometimes double). I think I would bring it by the dealer to have it checked (as you were thinking in the first post) to hopefully catch under warranty if it is an issue. I'm sorry if I missed it discussed somewhere, but try not to use the e-locker on dry pavement (at least don't turn or go fast/far if your rear tires have a firm "grip").

 

[4string4runner]

Just engaged mine for the first time since new. 20K miles

Would not kick in.

Did the quick left/right/ left / right on the wheel.

Engaged right away after doing that.

 

[downshift]

Something just doesn't sound right with your e-locker. I've always been able to get my FJ to lock with the slow creep and left/right slow steer (and 4Runner about 6 times now). Sometimes I have to drive a bit longer, but it always seems to work. I've gotten the FJ to lock under other circumstances (faster throttle, spinning in mud, up hills, etc.), but not always reliably. The slow creep, slow left/right, seems to be 100% reliable if I drive far enough (average for me maybe 15 feet, but sometimes shorter, sometimes double). I think I would bring it by the dealer to have it checked (as you were thinking in the first post) to hopefully catch under warranty if it is an issue. I'm sorry if I missed it discussed somewhere, but try not to use the e-locker on dry pavement (at least don't turn or go fast/far if your rear tires have a firm "grip").

Sometimes mine does lock pretty quickly, other times it takes forever. Same with unlock.

I'll mention this next time I take the car to the dealer. I expect I will here "working as expected." But at least I'll have it on record.

As I mentioned above, I'm doing my testing on a dirt road.

 

[Jetboy]

Mine engages within about a few feet. Less than 5 feet. I routinely go in and out of rear locker on tough trails due to it's effect on steering. Sometimes 10-20 times a day. I think you may just need to cycle it more often? Occasionally when I haven't used it for a few months it takes a bit longer. It often does require a small turn in either direction. It's sliding a collar that needs to align with the splines it fits. So it is totally normal that it will require you to turn a bit until the splines align and engage. If you're stuck - it should engage very quickly because one tire will spin while the other doesn't.

 

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Flashing rear diff lock...lost 4 wheel drive

My 2012 TE wont go into 4wheel drive with the flashing rear diff light on....dealership told me today it is a problem with the actuator in the front and replacing that will fix the rear.... makes no sense to me.... any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[Jeremy556]

My 2012 TE wont go into 4wheel drive with the flashing rear diff light on....dealership told me today it is a problem with the actuator in the front and replacing that will fix the rear.... makes no sense to me.... any thoughts would be appreciated.

Are you sure it's the diff lock light flashing, not 4x4? When the front axle disconnect isn't working properly, it will rapid flash the 4x4 light and 4wd will not work at all (hi or lo). The rear locker will rapid flash if it fails to engage as well, but only if you are already in 4lo and you engage the locker from the switch.

ETA: Green light with open circles at the diffs is 4x4 and indicates an ADD issue, if flashing. Red light with an X at the rear axle is the rear locker.