Locking Rear Differential

[[email protected]]

Thanks for the reply...it is definitely the rear locker that is flashing red colour...I can't get to go off...tried driving slowly in 4Lo reverse and forward ...gentle turns and sharp turns it went off for a while then when I turned the ignition off and restarted it came back on...

 

[Jeremy556]

Thanks for the reply...it is definitely the rear locker that is flashing red colour...I can't get to go off...tried driving slowly in 4Lo reverse and forward ...gentle turns and sharp turns it went off for a while then when I turned the ignition off and restarted it came back on...

If you turn the locker switch off, then key off and back on, it may stop complaining until you try to use it again. If it is stuck mid position this won't work and your best bet is to pull the motor out.

If you are DIY inclined, it is very easy to pull out the motor from the rear differential housing, IIRC it is just 1 or 2 bolts. Once you remove it, you can see if the motor spins, and move the locker mechanism by hand to get an idea of where your problem lies. You should also be able to get the motor and differential into fully open position, which should get rid of your flashing light, unless there is an electrical problem.

 

[downshift]

Thanks for the reply...it is definitely the rear locker that is flashing red colour...I can't get to go off...tried driving slowly in 4Lo reverse and forward ...gentle turns and sharp turns it went off for a while then when I turned the ignition off and restarted it came back on...

If it comes on with the ignition, before you've pressed any buttons, then almost certainly something is broken.

 

[[email protected]]

Yes it does come on before I push any buttons....I am leaning toward an electrical problem...I will get the locker mechanism off and investigate....

 

[[email protected]]

If you turn the locker switch off, then key off and back on, it may stop complaining until you try to use it again. If it is stuck mid position this won't work and your best bet is to pull the motor out.

If you are DIY inclined, it is very easy to pull out the motor from the rear differential housing, IIRC it is just 1 or 2 bolts. Once you remove it, you can see if the motor spins, and move the locker mechanism by hand to get an idea of where your problem lies. You should also be able to get the motor and differential into fully open position, which should get rid of your flashing light, unless there is an electrical problem.

Thanks this is worth a try...

 

[[email protected]]

Update

Thanks this is worth a try...

So after 8 hours at the dealership the problem is still not fixed ...they replaced the front actuator but that was never the problem and it didn't fix the problem I brought it to them for repair...they referred the matter to the experts in Toronto and the experts recommended another 6 hours of diagnostics(which is crazy and I declined)....the wiring was all checked over and was good....maybe it is a vacuum problem?... it appears the truck will still go into 4 wheel drive both high and low but the green indicator light won't come on and the rear diff lock just keeps flashing...

 

[Jeremy556]

There is nothing (thank god) vacuum actuated on the drive train any more, it is all mechanical/electrical. Do you have techstream so that you can see the trouble codes that are being thrown?

 

[Catahoulabulldog]

Has anyone experienced any problems with the electronic locking rear differential in the TE? Mine seems to keep flashing and not lock. Might be headed to the dealer. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.

Per the manual as far as the e-locker goes it’s only when the e-locker light is flashing rapidly is when you might have an issue. When I bought mine I noticed it was very finicky and you might have to play around with it to get it to engage. As long as the light is flashing normally it just means it’s not lined up properly to engage.

 

[Catahoulabulldog]

I don't think I've ever been able to get it to work while accelerating too much. I have not used the 4Runner e-locker much yet, but have used the FJ (I think very similar) a lot. I've always gotten it to work on the FJ (making sure in 4 lo, etc.) if I can get on a flat surface and barely give any throttle at all (if any throttle). It seems to need to creep along very slowly. I have been in very tricky situations (middle of steep hills, slipping, etc.) where I really needed the e-locker, but could not get it to engage because I think I had to give it too much throttle (should have engaged the e-locker sooner before I got into trouble).

According to the manual you should not exceed 5mph while the e-locker is engaged. So the slow creep I guess is what Toyota recommends.

 

[[email protected]]

There is nothing (thank god) vacuum actuated on the drive train any more, it is all mechanical/electrical. Do you have techstream so that you can see the trouble codes that are being thrown?

I don't have techstream but I was told all codes indicated the front actuator....which again makes no sense....

 

[[email protected]]

Per the manual as far as the e-locker goes it’s only when the e-locker light is flashing rapidly is when you might have an issue. When I bought mine I noticed it was very finicky and you might have to play around with it to get it to engage. As long as the light is flashing normally it just means it’s not lined up properly to engage.

Thanks.... my light is flashing but not a rapid flash...is that what you mean?....so the flashing knocks out the 4wheel drive indicator...

 

[Jeremy556]

I don't have techstream but I was told all codes indicated the front actuator....which again makes no sense....

Whoever was working on your 4runner has no idea what they are doing if they spent 8 hours (or even more than .25 hours) of diagnostic time and replaced the ADD for no reason. I would disregard everything they have told you.

You are going to have to find a competent diagnostic technician, or figure it out on your own, if you are so inclined. Techstream will require a laptop, $30 for a cable, and some time investment for getting it setup. If you can do that and run a multimeter to check continuity and read a wiring harness diagram, you should be able to fix it.

 

[[email protected]]

Whoever was working on your 4runner has no idea what they are doing if they spent 8 hours (or even more than .25 hours) of diagnostic time and replaced the ADD for no reason. I would disregard everything they have told you.

You are going to have to find a competent diagnostic technician, or figure it out on your own, if you are so inclined. Techstream will require a laptop, $30 for a cable, and some time investment for getting it setup. If you can do that and run a multimeter to check continuity and read a wiring harness diagram, you should be able to fix it.

Thanks.... That will be my next move.... so incidentally we had a cold snap here last night and now the light is off...and everything appears to be functioning.... the second time this happened...

 

[Catahoulabulldog]

Thanks.... my light is flashing but not a rapid flash...is that what you mean?....so the flashing knocks out the 4wheel drive indicator...

Yes. According to the manual if it’s flashing rapidly it suggests to take it to Toyota for service. As far as the 4wd indicator my e-locker not engaging has never knocked it out or off. It still stays in 4wd the e-locker just isn’t engaging because it’s not lined up. Sometimes e-locker engages immediately and other times it’s very finicky.

 

[Bertha1]

Thanks for the reply...it is definitely the rear locker that is flashing red colour...I can't get to go off...tried driving slowly in 4Lo reverse and forward ...gentle turns and sharp turns it went off for a while then when I turned the ignition off and restarted it came back on...

I have the same problem with my 2013 TE. I tried the stop/start/turn remedies but have had no success. As a diagnostic, I jacked all 4 wheels off the ground and tested it. In 4WL the rear diff slips when I hold one wheel. With the locker on it does not, or at least I cannot hold it! Nevertheless, the light still flashes. This leads me to think it is the sensor. However, the front diff does not slip in 4WH or 4WL, again by the measure that I cannot stop 1 wheel turning. This is a stock front diff with no locker so I am puzzled by the test results.

I would appreciate any insights.
Thanks