Loctite blue or anti-seize paste for skid bolts?

Tallman

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I'm going to get my skids and sliders soon and have seen both materials suggested for the bolts. The blue threadlocker supposedly protects from corrosion and vibrating free, while the anti-seize does its thing for easy later removal but has a greater chance of vibrating loose?

Any one have experience with either?
 
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I'm going to get my skids and sliders soon and have seen both materials suggested for the bolts. The blue threadlocker supposedly protects from corrosion and vibrating free, while the anti-seize does its thing for easy later removal but has a greater chance of vibrating loose?

Any one have experience with either?

definitely anti seize, skid plate bolts usually rust, strip and need to be drilled out
 
Vibra Tite AC-3. Much better than your regular thread locker - repositionable. If you use anti-seize - nickel based is the best.
 
Anti-seize BUT I live where they use salt and slurry on winter roads.

You should also understand that anti-seize works as a lubricant and will affect the torque settings of the hardware. The factory frame nuts aren’t a very hard steel either, if you are using aftermarket hardware they are more than likely a higher grade. Don’t over torque.
 
Never had a problem with anti seize and just snugging them down.

I had 1 completely seize on my 4th gen that I never fixed.

On my 5th gen I also had 1 seize and fixed it when I did RCI skids. Was going to drill it out and retap but the welded on nut completely snapped off so I just drilled the hole out and used a m8 nutsert.
 
Anti seize and lock washers. If you want to go the extra mile - use bolts drilled for safety wire.
 
Anti seize here. I'd also consider running a tap through any threaded holes just to clean them out. My factory skid had a ton of crap in the attachment point threads.
 
[MENTION=242265]SnowYeti[/MENTION] are you sure those are m10x1.25? You're linking to a m10 tap anyway.

IIRC all that undercarriage hardware is m8x1.25
 
Pretty sure I got the links from another discussion on the same issue. You might search to find that thread. Several people did it and talked about the gunk that was up there, and that the factory threads were not great leading to galling, then to stripping.

I have not done it yet. But I would caliper the bolt to make sure. Though if it is a M8, the M10 would not even start in those threads.

Personally I wii also try and find some stainless replacements. Even though they will be weaker I don’t think it will matter in this application. The SS will have less galling issues. I think the zinc plating on the stock fasteners was a poor choice for repeated use. (Oil changes)
 
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[MENTION=242265]SnowYeti[/MENTION] Well you’re telling someone to buy something that isn’t correct. Not sure why you are telling me to search for a thread that you posted information from, but whatever. *shrug* You should do you own research to make sure what you are sharing is the right information.

When you say “chase the threads” you are cleaning them not cutting new ones as you would with a larger or different pitch tap. The Amazon link you posted, goes to a larger tap, an m10x

If someone takes your advice, buys something, it’s incorrect, the only one that looks bad here is you. That’s all I’m saying. :thumb: :wave:
 
I’ve found that while I only use a bit, the anti-seize is a little bit gummy and I’m not concerned that the bolts will rattle out. All my skid plate bolts are installed snug tight at best. Those fasteners want to twist apart with anything larger than my smallest ratchet
 
Get stainless steel hardware before you have to deal with rusted skidplate hardware. In fact, do you license plate bolts while you're at it.
 

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