Looking for 96-98 bumper

[Colorado buff]

My 2000 bumper got hit and needs to be retired. Any ideas on the best place to find a 96-98 style bumper replacement?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I bought one from the dealer. Herd too many fitment horror stories from the aftermarket ones


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Kanoe]

That's a prime junkyard piece. The fronts are not usually rusty and the hardware will still come off. The hard part is to find one that hasn't been in a front end collision. I'd call around, I frequently see them.

 

[brillo_76]

When I went to change mine, they were darn near impossible to find in my area. I lucked out and a parts mobile came up for sale. So I bought it just pulled it off and replaced mine. My rear came from rock auto. I looked for a month and gave up.

The price of OEM for bumpers is extremely high for some reason. Certain parts seem to be that way though in Toyota.

The premium ones from rock auto will work. Sometimes they get banged up in shipping. I always clean the inside of the bumpers and paint them with Rustoleum with 2 coats. Then when mounted on a heavy coat them with fluid film to keep them from rotting from the inside out.

My Tetanus 1 98 in my garage has a rock auto rear bumper on it. I believe I put it in an album as someone before asked what they look like.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[Colorado buff]

Thanks all. Will look at rock auto and around. Appreciate the feedback. Brillo your weld work is awesome btw. Amazing seeing your frame restorations

 

[T4R2014]

Junkyard ones will be rusty crap from the back. OEM chrome is the best but pricey. You can get away with china chrome. Fluid Film them so they can survive.

 

[brillo_76]

Thanks all. Will look at rock auto and around. Appreciate the feedback. Brillo your weld work is awesome btw. Amazing seeing your frame restorations

Thank you. Anyone can do it. Just takes time and practice. Eventually, I will have 4 frames repaired. Just putting plates on the outside of the frame will just by a little time in the rust belt. We really need to clean the inside of the frame out and seal all the holes up and replace all the rotted steel out. Now if people treated the the steel with a film of your choice. When new and kept a close eye on their undercarriage. Washing out the frame and coating it too. I wouldn't have to do this.


Then I wouldn't have shown the DIY users how to fix your frame with all the experimenting I done. I did this just to learn to weld better. Welding in wierd angles and upside down isnt easy but can be done.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[Colorado buff]

I wonder why the frames had the holes in the first place. I had to do two frame repairs but now should be good for a while. They cut out the rot and did a nice job repairing. I figure money on repairs is cheaper for the next five years. Plus only has about 150k miles so good for another 100-150k.

 

[brillo_76]

I wonder why the frames had the holes in the first place. I had to do two frame repairs but now should be good for a while. They cut out the rot and did a nice job repairing. I figure money on repairs is cheaper for the next five years. Plus only has about 150k miles so good for another 100-150k.

I would say for a few reasons:

1.) Save a little weight.
2.) Alignment holes for the machines to move the parts.
3.) Machines weld the frame together. So they have to be aligned perfectly when being welded together.

The only issue with holes in the frames is in the rust belt areas.. Other Areas of the world, they never rust out. All depends on the environment.