Looking for more flex
- Thread starter metzger
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MisplacedTexan
New member
A spacer lift doesn't get the same travel as an actual suspension lift. You still have stock articulation or may a little less, but jsut an inch higher because of the spacer.
Suspension lifts with longer springs, longer shocks, and new UCA's are where you can start getting more flex.
UCA's aren't necessarily required, but are suggested when getting a 3" lift for alignment reason. Also, when switch over to a uniball setup you can gain more droop as a ball joint style UCA may bind while drooping.
CV shafts do play a limiting factor, but thats when you start getting into the long-travel stuff.
Suspension lifts with longer springs, longer shocks, and new UCA's are where you can start getting more flex.
UCA's aren't necessarily required, but are suggested when getting a 3" lift for alignment reason. Also, when switch over to a uniball setup you can gain more droop as a ball joint style UCA may bind while drooping.
CV shafts do play a limiting factor, but thats when you start getting into the long-travel stuff.
Bumbo
New member
Front sway bars also get in the way of flex... quick disconnects or temporary removal have been done in the past for people who off-road.
CV's are also a limiting factor, along with the general suspension geometry which doesn't really change until you move into a long travel setup.
Alternately, you could do a solid axle swap, but I would probably change the vehical before getting to that point.
CV's are also a limiting factor, along with the general suspension geometry which doesn't really change until you move into a long travel setup.
Alternately, you could do a solid axle swap, but I would probably change the vehical before getting to that point.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Do you mean 'flex' or 'travel' or 'droop'?
Jack up your front end and try rotating your tires by hand, then do the same thing with the steering at full lock each side. Any CV binding? If so, trying to get more travel at this point will only damage the CVs. If not I'd be interested in hearing from others what the limiting parts are; the stock UCA ball joint, then maybe shocks or LCA ball joints after upgrading the UCA.
Jack up your front end and try rotating your tires by hand, then do the same thing with the steering at full lock each side. Any CV binding? If so, trying to get more travel at this point will only damage the CVs. If not I'd be interested in hearing from others what the limiting parts are; the stock UCA ball joint, then maybe shocks or LCA ball joints after upgrading the UCA.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Read this thread, for 4th gens but it should still apply:
Higher angle inner CV joint options for 4th gens?
5100s actually have the same extended length as 'extended length' Icon coilovers. And with your 1" spacer on top your shock can't be limiting your travel.
Higher angle inner CV joint options for 4th gens?
5100s actually have the same extended length as 'extended length' Icon coilovers. And with your 1" spacer on top your shock can't be limiting your travel.
that's what i think.
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Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Ah, that just one of the challenges of IFS. Trying to get equal flex front/rear.
Maybe try stiffening up the rear, add the sway bar back in if removed, something, to try and reduce it wanting to take all the articulation.
IMO as long as all 4 are on the ground you've got nothing to worry about, it doesn't matter if the front stays flat as a pancake.
Also, in that picture you have less weight acting on the front end as it's up in the air. Try backing up to the hill so you get more nose weight if you want to actually test front articulation.
Horsethief
New member
Yeah, IFS doesn't really "flex".
This is why people do solid axle swaps, and why Jeeps still have a solid front axle. WAY better for offroading that requires articulation, and easier to increase the travel.
My old Grand Cherokee had a solid front axle, and the front would flex just like the rear of the white one above is doing.
This is why people do solid axle swaps, and why Jeeps still have a solid front axle. WAY better for offroading that requires articulation, and easier to increase the travel.
My old Grand Cherokee had a solid front axle, and the front would flex just like the rear of the white one above is doing.
