Looking for old LBJ

Teaser pic of the uniball cup welded in..



Hopefully machining of the misalignment spacers starts next week. I decided to do a spanner wrench style for the top spacer/nut. I will include the spanner wrench as well as all of the hardware to directly swap it in. After King of the Hammers I will be heading to a destructive testing place to put these things through tensile and bend testing.
 
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Teaser pic of the uniball cup welded in..



Hopefully machining of the misalignment spacers starts next week. I decided to do a spanner wrench style for the top spacer/nut. I will include the spanner wrench as well as all of the hardware to directly swap it in. After King of the Hammers I will be heading to a destructive testing place to put these things through tensile and bend testing.

I like it, sticking it to the man. aka the naysayers on this forum. also excellent tig welds.
 
I'm looking forward to this. If I was still out in the desert I'd meet you at koh but sadly I had to get out of the USMC this year. Great spot to test to stuff out at though.
[MENTION=102641]BattleWagonActual[/MENTION] can you make it?
 
The draw back is that there are not any companies, that I can find, that sell this style misalignment. I went to Kartek and no luck so I suppose I will have to bore out a standard spacer. I guess its not to big of a deal since I already have to machine the lower to fit the taper. I would like to make this 100% bolt in, so no drilling of the lower arm. That will raise the cost slightly but make life somewhat easier.

You haven't looked very hard then since these are an easy find. Linky
 
You haven't looked very hard then since these are an easy find. Linky

I had seen those, but it's for an 1.25 uniball and this s a 1" uniball. Plus the taper is different,l. This style won't work anyway because a 5/8 bolt of any configuratuon, countersunk, button head, 12pt, the head is to big to recess in far enough to clear the spindle. There isn't enough meat on the spacer.
 
I had seen those, but it's for an 1.25 uniball and this s a 1" uniball. Plus the taper is different,l. This style won't work anyway because a 5/8 bolt of any configuratuon, countersunk, button head, 12pt, the head is to big to recess in far enough to clear the spindle. There isn't enough meat on the spacer.

obviously you have a lathe man, get a radius cutter attachment or make one and you can make your own spacers.
 
Keep up the progress. I would love to see these work and be available. Been following your updates on mafia FB page as well.
 
Keep up the progress. I would love to see these work and be available. Been following your updates on mafia FB page as well.
I for one love seeing an attempt being made whether it works or not. Trust me I hope it does work but even if it doesn't this is an excellent foot forward.
 
I'm looking forward to this. If I was still out in the desert I'd meet you at koh but sadly I had to get out of the USMC this year. Great spot to test to stuff out at though.
[MENTION=102641]BattleWagonActual[/MENTION] can you make it?


Unfortunately I won't be able to make it to KOH due to training and deployment cycle. I'll most likely be On my way to Virginia by next years as well but we'll see.
 
Keep up the progress. I would love to see these work and be available. Been following your updates on mafia FB page as well.

Very cool, Ive gotten a lot of response from the FB posts which surprises me. I thought I would get a little more here but its all good either way!

I for one love seeing an attempt being made whether it works or not. Trust me I hope it does work but even if it doesn't this is an excellent foot forward.

Thanks guys. Appreciate the kind words. Projects like this always start out with a million ideas and then as you continue forward it will build itself. Even failed attempts or ideas can stem new ones :thumb:

As for progress, I finished the prototypes for the spacers and found that I dont need to add any misalignment to them. With just squared off spacers the uniball travels a whole lot further then the application calls for. This makes machining much easier, cheaper and faster which will bring down the cost of the whole set-up.





These are just aluminum for fitment and cycling the suspension. The real ones will be made of chromoly and dipped in some coating, not too sure on what quite yet. I will also add some slight chamfers to dress it up a bit.
 
wow, just beautiful... wish I knew half of your welding skilz... that there is art.

maybe I'm not the only one... but can we see a dead front picture of the spindle while it's full stuff and full droop in the suspension? of course at your convenience.

I wonder if this will increase any extra travel over the stock LBJ...
 
wow, just beautiful... wish I knew half of your welding skilz... that there is art.

maybe I'm not the only one... but can we see a dead front picture of the spindle while it's full stuff and full droop in the suspension? of course at your convenience.

I wonder if this will increase any extra travel over the stock LBJ...

There is a possibility that it will increase travel ever so slightly but not anything crazy. The upper uniball is the real limiter. The Total Chaos Upper helps quite a bit along with the King shocks, which I have both. I will try and get some pictures this weekend if I think of it. Thanks for the kind words though!
 
Very cool, Ive gotten a lot of response from the FB posts which surprises me. I thought I would get a little more here but its all good either way!

Thanks guys. Appreciate the kind words. Projects like this always start out with a million ideas and then as you continue forward it will build itself. Even failed attempts or ideas can stem new ones :thumb:

As for progress, I finished the prototypes for the spacers and found that I dont need to add any misalignment to them. With just squared off spacers the uniball travels a whole lot further then the application calls for. This makes machining much easier, cheaper and faster which will bring down the cost of the whole set-up.

These are just aluminum for fitment and cycling the suspension. The real ones will be made of chromoly and dipped in some coating, not too sure on what quite yet. I will also add some slight chamfers to dress it up a bit.


Don't know much but these look great. I will be willing to install it on my t4r.
 
Everything looks pretty good. Good job!

Are you going to thoroughly test these before you sell them?

Once people see the price of these they may shy away.
 
This is an interesting thread and I'd like to chime in and formally apologize for the Hi-jack, the work here is awesome and look forward to see more!
I like the idea of changing the design of the lower ball joint to something different.
Everyone can argue that the OE style is junk and aftermarket are even worse, I should know, at 229K I have already gone through at least 3 sets.

However and exposed uni ball joint might not be the greatest solution.
Just hear me out on this.

First set of LBJ's were replaced at 160K (120k w/no lift, 40K w/lift) and the failure was abnormal to what everyone else usually experiences, the cap on the joint actually came off and the joint pushed itself into the CV.
From there I have used aftermarket replacements, the second set lasting till around 40K, the 3rd set again aftermarket brought me another 20k before getting play in them, now on my 4th aftermarket set with no issues, but looking to go OEM.

Not done though, after my first initial lift I went from standard upper control arms to Uni-ball upper control arms. Living in the north east, and in the rust belt makes this a fun purchase, in that I find that I change out upper joints at least every 20K, I am already on my 3rd set of uniballs, while I did get the arms used, I was told that they had 30k on them and they just started to get play, then after that it seemed to follow a 20k interval.

Now considering that the upper ball joint is not a load bearing joint, this kinda sucks but its the environment, not change the position and add load, I would look to most likely cut that track record in 1/2, thats changing out joints a lot, an at $54 a unit w/o shipping that is a lot of $$$ I just would like to use else where.

Now going back to the ball joints, I understand it is not the best design, but if they are OEM, they still last quiet a good bit, on a stock rig can last well over 100k.
However, I feel they should be a normal maintenance item like many other items on the 3rd gen.

I feel if you stick with OEM joints and your stock, you should go ahead and replace the lower joints every 100k weather they are good or not, and if you have just lifted I would replace them while doing your lift and then proceed with an interval of every 75k.

As far as the lower ball joint being a limiting factor:


I haven't had a problem yet with stuffing that tire into the wheel well.
With just adding the OEM Ball joint at a routine maintenance a certain mileage interval you avoid having to deal with a failure.
Think of it as doing your plugs every 30K miles, they have a wear limit, and while if you exceed that mileage you don't instantly throw a misfire it is inevitable.

Again sorry for the hi-jack and keep up the good work, I look forward to see the progress and test results of the joints!
 

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