Looking for TRD SC pulley larger than 2.37" stock

[nacho]

SUCCESS!!!! ..... or so it seems so far. Did the splice today. I had to access the grey and black wires at the ECU behind the glove box. Not too difficult to get to really, just kind of cramped under there and had to take apart a few things in the way. On my 2000 SR5 4WD auto, the wires were on the far left plug that also had the most wires in it. The Grey and Black wires were right next to each other.

After the splice, I took it out on the hwy and took the over-drive off so it would rev higher. I took it through 7 or 8 cycles of 1500 - 3500 rpm and NO CEL popped up! Seems to run better with more power too.

One thing though, I had to unhook the neg. bat. term. before I did this splice and that resets the computer back to normal I guess. It may take a few days for the ECU to re-learn everything and adjust the idle to what it should be.

Before this CEL prob, the 4R would start up cold and idle at about 1200 rpm. After it had ran awhile and warmed up, it would go down to about 700 rpm.

Every since I've been having this CEL-knock sensor issue, The 4R has ran just the opposite. Low rpm when cold and high rpm when warmed up.

Maybe the ECU will adjust this over the next few days and go back to how it used to run before I had this #2 ks go out. I hope it will. I always run only premium gas and have the colder plugs in it.

Huge thanks to BigFishAllDay and Chris360Hawks for ALL their input and help.
I only got this far because you guys hung in there with me and didn't quit.

This is for the engineer that put the knock sensors where they are :uzi:

 

[chris360hawks]

Glad to here you were able to do the splice trick. I hope it works for you over the long term! So your 4runner is back to idling normally or is it still idling fast when warm?

 

[nacho]

I started it up this morning. The idle was still low (600 rpm) while cold and a little sluggish until it warmed up.

I took it out on the hwy for a quick 15 mile r/t drive up and down a hilly area.
The engine went through several cycles of 1500 - 3500 rpm. NO CEL still!

When I got home and put it in park, it still was idling a little high at 1000 rpm, but lower than the 1200+ it was at when I had the CEL problem.

I wonder how long it will take the ECU to "re-learn" the correct timing and re-set the idle to what it should be? I'm hoping the computer will make all the adjustments it needs to over the next few days or few hundred miles.
-----------------------------------

Note: From all my reading and research I have learned that the computer that is behind the glove box is referred to the ECM or 'engine control module'. The unit under the drivers seat is referred to the ECU or 'electronic control unit'.
The ECU under the seat controls all the electronics like alarm, key-less door unlock, ect.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Glad to hear you got rid of the CEL, Nacho. :banana:

Doesn't it feel good fixing stuff on your own? I love the feeling you get after you solve your own problem.

 

[SkidPalace]

I would have thought that upon clearing the ECU memory, it would operate at normal default settings, especially timing. I wonder why you are still getting wonky rpms and sluggish performance when cold.
How long did you have the battery unhooked? Unless you touch both cables together, it can take a few minutes for the capacitors to lose their charge and fully erase the memory. Are you sure it was fully reset?
I usually take off both cables and touch them together for about 60 seconds when I need to reset the ECU.

 

[chris360hawks]

Maybe your MAF sensor is dirty?

 

[nacho]

Yep BigFishAllDay...it does feel good. To be honest, I couldn't have done it without the help of you and Chris360Hawk..and a couple of others too. You two were the main guys that gave me the info I needed to deal with it. Big thanks!

To answer SkidPalace....I unhooked the neg. battery cable for about 10 mins. just to be sure it would re-set to default.

You think there's a problem because it didn't go right back to the way it's supposed to idle? I wondered about that too, but maybe time will tell.

I also wonder why this engine ran so well when I first got it seeing as to how the plugs were all used up and the gap was way out there at .050 or bigger. They also were just the stock heat range 5 which is not the best with a SC. They looked just like they should look except they were all used up.

I switched to new copper NGK 3 prong with a heat range 2 steps colder. They were gapped at .043. I'm wondering if I should put in new plugs with a gap of .032 now. I'll wait and see I guess. I'm just glad the CEL is off and the 4R seems to be running fine for now. Time will tell.

 

[nacho]

One of the first things I did after I got this 4R was to take out the MAF and spray it down with some MAF cleaner. It already looked pretty clean, but I sprayed it anyway since I had it out. I didn't touch it with anything. Just sprayed it and let it dry before putting it back in.

Didn't notice a difference. I was trying to squeeze out the best mileage I could.

Always ran premium and I ran a bottle of Techron Fuel System Cleaner though a tank of gas...just to clean things up in there a little. Figured it couldn't hurt.

 

[nacho]

C360H... You said your plugs are gapped .032 ... Is that the same gap your 2 friends use in their SC rigs? I have noticed most guys with a SC use that gap.

 

[chris360hawks]

Or your IAC valve. Maybe try and seafoam that bish through the brake booster line and clean your throttle body.

 

[chris360hawks]

Yeah all of our gaps should be around .032. I think thats what the plugs come from the store gapped as.

 

[nacho]

Or your IAC valve. Maybe try and seafoam that bish through the brake booster line and clean your throttle body.

whaaa..?? bish? sounds good, but wtf? It would be nice to be able to clean the throttle body w/o taking it off. Can that be done?

 

[chris360hawks]

whaaa..?? bish? sounds good, but wtf? It would be nice to be able to clean the throttle body w/o taking it off. Can that be done?

lol, bish is short for *****. Just pull the intake tube off, open the butterfly valve in the throttle body and douse that bish .

 

[SkidPalace]

I left my Densos gapped the way they were in the box. They run fine.
Definitely pop off your intake tube and clean what you can reach inside your throttle body. It isn't that tough of a job to unbolt the TB all together and get it from the other side without pulling the cooling lines off. That's what I did.
Something else you can look at is your idle air control valve. Many have reported cleaning or replacing this IAC valve fixed their rpm issues.

 

[nacho]

Still looking for larger SC pulley

Big thanks again to BigFishAllDay and Chris360Hawks for all their help and knowledge with doing that wire splice where one good knock sensor gives the engine's ECM a good reading and bypasses the other bad sensor.

It's a good trick to know how to do if you want to buy time before you replace both sensors. If it had been my knock sensor wiring harness that was bad, then I would have had no choice but to replace it. Replacing that harness takes about the same amount of time and energy as it does to replace the k.sensors.

All is good for now and no more CEL. The engine did take a little while to adjust and re-learn the idle settings, but they are almost back to normal now. Patience is a virtue....or virgin with me. LOL!

I'm still looking for a larger than stock supercharger pulley to try on my no mods set-up. I realize it will give me less boost and h.p. than the stock pulley would, but the other side of that coin is my SC will last a lot longer and so will my tranny and engine. I think the 3.4 will be happier without so much air crammed down it's throat. I will still have more power than a non SC'd 3.4 V6 and that's OK with me. The trouble is finding that pulley. TRD used to make a 2.65" 'under drive' pulley just for the reasons I stated. If any of you out there ever come across one, or one similar that will fit the grey SC and has 4 ribs, please let me know. Thanks again for your patience and help. Nacho

 

[A.Wilson013]

I was wrong about having the pulley, sorry =)

And my plugs are gapped at .043, FWIW.

Denso IK22's.