Looking for TRD SC pulley larger than 2.37" stock

[nacho]

I know most of you with superchargers all want to go with a little bit smaller pulley than the 2.37 inch stock one that came with your SC.
Many of you go with a 2.2" or even 2.1" I'm looking for one that's bigger.

I am looking for a pulley that TRD used to sell called an Under-Drive pulley. It is a little bigger than the stock 2.37" one. It's 2.65 inches and
puts out 5.25 psi boost instead of the 6 -7 psi that stock does. It fits the
gray and the black SC just like the stock one does.

I have called TRD and every pulley maker out there with no luck.

Anyone have this pulley lying around and want to sell it to me? If you do,
or know where I can find one, please PM me and we can talk about it.

Thanks. I really need some help here finding this pulley.

 

[chris360hawks]

I think your first problem is that you need to fix your knock sensors. Even with a larger pulley it is still going to run like **** because your knock sensors are putting it in safe mode. Once you do that assess how your truck is running. I bet with the colder plugs it will run fine and won't ping. How high of a elevation are you at?

 

[nacho]

Chris, please read the PM I sent you yesterday. I'm at sea level. The 4r runs great other than the hg/lr when going uphill. That can sometimes trigger the CEL to come on. It's always the same P0 330 code. Circuit 2 knock sensor. That must be the side that knocks.

CEL only comes on if I do some steep uphill cruising. I re-set it after it happens because CEL bugs me, but 4R runs the same (good) whether the CEL is on or off...doesn't make any difference. Is it possible that the knock sensors are not necessarily bad and just doing their job and and letting me know there is some knocking going on?

I was under the impression that when a knock sensor tripped the CEL it was to inform you that there was some knocking going on and not to inform you that a knock sensor had gone bad. Maybe I'm wrong.

I unhook the neg battery terminal for a few minutes to re-set the ECU and turn off the CEL. I can drive for days and not have the CEL come on again.

How is it possible for the 4R to run just as good whether the CEL is on or off? I've often wondered about that.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

I don't think you knock sensors are the problem either. If you're getting the code for the same side every time, you might try replacing the plugs... a worn plug in one of your cylinder banks could be exacerbating your problem.

You're experiencing problems exactly when you should. A 3.4 run w/the S/C and no fuel mods at sea level is going to do exactly what you're describing. Period. You need a fuel system upgrade.

Also, be aware that the ECU's in these trucks can "learn". They start off with a base fuel/timing map, and depending on the feedback they get from the array of sensors on the engine, they adjust fuel and timing curves to suit the parameters that they've been programmed to operate under safely. Every time you disconnect your battery and clear the code, you're undoing all the "learning" that the ECU has done and starting over with the base maps. Those base maps are very safe, but will cost you in terms of mileage and power until the ECU adjusts once again. When the CEL is triggered, the ECU goes into a safe mode that is more/less the same as the base fuel/timing maps that it starts with, which is why it's running "good" with the CEL on or off.

Once you actually get the vehicle running properly, you'll be amazed at how different it feels.

 

[chris360hawks]

I know from experience from dealing with my knock sensors and from what I've read is that if your knock sensors/harness are fine and you are getting pinging while under high load/low rpm it is NOT going to trigger a CEL. The only time a CEL is thrown for a knock sensor is when either the sensor is going bad or the harness for the sensor is going bad. I believe the only time your knock sensors are actively adjusting timing is when the engine is under high load or above 3k rpm. This is probably why the CEL is being triggered when you are boosting hard up a long hill.

I know with my truck and hearing about other cases when a CEL is thrown for a knock sensor it puts the ecu in a fail safe mode where it puts the timing at full re**** and doesn't allow the timing to adjust. This isn't too noticeable for driving under 3k rpm, but when you get into open loop mode it drastically kills power and mpgs.

What you could do for free to trick the truck into not throwing a CEL and to test if the truck ran better without getting the code for P0330 is to splice the wiring from the bad sensor into the good sensor wire. That way the truck will be getting 2 "good" sensor signals, albeit from 1 sensor. That is just a temporary fix to see if the CEL will stay off and to see if the truck runs better by "fixing" the bad sensor. The wiring can easily be reversed if needed.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Chris, experience speaks volumes, so realize this is no pissing contest, but what I'm noticing is that he's saying:

CEL only comes on if I do some steep uphill cruising.

key word.. cruising...and you're reading that as:

This is probably why the CEL is being triggered when you are boosting hard up a long hill.

key words... boosting hard up a long hill...

I know with my truck and hearing about other cases when a CEL is thrown for a knock sensor it puts the ecu in a fail safe mode where it puts the timing at full re**** and doesn't allow the timing to adjust. This isn't too noticeable for driving under 3k rpm, but when you get into open loop mode it drastically kills power and mpgs.

....That's very similar to the point I'm making here:

Those base maps are very safe, but will cost you in terms of mileage and power until the ECU adjusts once again. When the CEL is triggered, the ECU goes into a safe mode that is more/less the same as the base fuel/timing maps that it starts with

Whether or not his knock sensors are bad, the fact that they are feeding a signal to the ECU indicating dangerous levels of knock, or ping, and triggering the CEL.... is putting the ECU into safe mode. I think that the method you suggested for testing the knock sensors is worth a try, but I also think that the simplest answer is usually the the correct answer. The facts are that he's running at sea level without fuel mods... this has been proven time and time again to result in high levels of pinging... A = a 3.4 with a s/c, B = operated normally at sea level, C = Pinging.... A + B = C. Put the proper fuel mods on that engine and watch the pinging disappear... OR.... test and replace all your knock sensors, hope the problem goes away, and when you're still experiencing the same problem people run into time and time again... give in and buy the proper fuel system upgrades and be done with it.

 

[chris360hawks]

Whether or not his knock sensors are bad, the fact that they are feeding a signal to the ECU indicating dangerous levels of knock, or ping, and triggering the CEL.... is putting the ECU into safe mode. I think that the method you suggested for testing the knock sensors is worth a try, but I also think that the simplest answer is usually the the correct answer. The facts are that he's running at sea level without fuel mods... this has been proven time and time again to result in high levels of pinging... A = a 3.4 with a s/c, B = operated normally at sea level, C = Pinging.... A + B = C. Put the proper fuel mods on that engine and watch the pinging disappear... OR.... test and replace all your knock sensors, hope the problem goes away, and when you're still experiencing the same problem people run into time and time again... give in and buy the proper fuel system upgrades and be done with it.

You may be right that excessive pinging is causing the CEL to be thrown, and I maybe wrong, but I have always understood that a knock sensor fault light is caused by a faulty reading coming from that sensor not from excessive pinging. I know on my truck I have fuel mods and no pinging under any conditions but I have a CEL for knock sensors, so in my case I'm deducing that the light is being caused by a faulty sensor or harness and not from pinging.

I live at sea level as well and I have two friends that have supercharged 3.4s with no fuel mods. One motor has 200k miles and the other has 235k miles. Before I switched them to colder plugs we could easily get them to ping under load, but they never have encountered a CEL for excessive pinging. Once switched to colder plugs it is much harder to get them to ping under load.

Alot of times times according to some Toyota techs its not the actual sensor that is bad, but the harness. This is because the harness sits on top of the intake manifold and can degrade from all the heat.

You don't want to spend all the time and money on a fuel upgrade kit or finding a larger pulley and still have the CEL being thrown for a stupid sensor. I would try the little trick I suggested that way you can tell for sure if it is the sensor/harness throwing the code or is being caused by excessive pinging.

 

[chris360hawks]

Oh and BigFish I agree 100% that his truck is running lean as all non fuel modded s/c 3.4s do. I'm just not sure if I agree that the leanness/pinging is causing the CEL

 

[chris360hawks]

Just wanted to make sure you are running premium gas correct, nacho?

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Nacho, Chris:

Did a little homework and Chris is on to something w/the knock sensor diagnosis... follow this link to the Diagnostic Procedure for code P0330:

Link >>> http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...2rmsour/2002/024runne/di/eg5vzfe/cip0325p.pdf

Forget all the technical language... the end result is that you either replace the knock sensor, the harness, or the ECU in order to address code P0330.

It is very unlikely that your ECU is fried, so, it does appear you have a potential issue w/the knock sensor and/or harness, and that it is probably the cause of your check engine light.

One last thing though, regarding this:

You don't want to spend all the time and money on a fuel upgrade kit or finding a larger pulley and still have the CEL being thrown for a stupid sensor. I would try the little trick I suggested that way you can tell for sure if it is the sensor/harness throwing the code or is being caused by excessive pinging.

... Even if you get the code cured, and the pinging calmed down.... you should STILL CONSIDER the fuel system upgrade. :bigok:

 

[nacho]

Thanks C360H and BFAD for your insight and input into this matter. This is the first 4R I've owned and the first SC'd vehicle I've owned also. I have always bought Toyota trucks and cars for me and my wife. Hard to beat the build quality and reliability.

I do run premium gas only in this 4R. I also replaced the s.plug wires and the spark plugs to 2 step colder s.plugs: NGK BCPR7ET (5509) or (2164)... Some parts stores use 5509...others use 2164. ???
When I bought the 4R it had stock plugs and pinged a lot more. There are only 114K miles on this 4R. The mileage is not good at 16 mpg.
I took out the MAF sensor and sprayed it with MAF cleaner. It didn't look very dirty and the cleaning didn't help the mpg. I put in a new pcv also. No help with mpg.

I find it interesting that C360H has two friends that both have the same set-up as I do and they both have not done the upgrade kit, yet they run fine with only colder plugs. They are also at sea level too.
Curious as to why they didn't feel the need for the upgrade kit. Is it they were very happy with the way their 4R's ran just with colder plugs?

Maybe my 4R is not running as well as I think and just seems fine to me. Maybe if I drove one that was running as it is supposed to I would feel the difference.

I do appreciate both of you digging in deep and helping me solve this problem. I'll get to the bottom of this if it kills me and my wallet.

One thing that really annoys me is that Toyota felt the need to put the knock sensors AND wire harness where they are so darn hard to get
to. On the T-100 with the same exact engine, they have them right up top where they should be....I think anyway.

 

[chris360hawks]

16mpg is pretty normal for a mix of average city/highway driving with a supercharger. I know I usually get about 16-18. On purely highway cruising at 70mph I have gotten almost 21.

My friends trucks definitely run lean as before the cold plugs they could easily ping. After the cold plugs they don't ping at all, but I'm sure they are still lean at high rpm. It doesn't bother them as my friends Tacoma without fuel mods runs just as fast as my 4Runner with fuel mods. I attribute that to him having a much greater weight advantage over me. They also have adjusted their driving styles to avoid being in lean condition for too long. These 3.4s are probably some of the best motors Toyota has ever made and can take a extreme amount of abuse. There trucks have 200k+ hard miles on them and show no signs of quitting. In my one friend's view he doesn't really justify spending $1000 on a URD kit on a 200k mile truck when he is perfectly happy with how his truck runs, and seeing how fast and strong it is I don't blame him.

When I supercharged mine I wanted to have it perfectly safe and reliable so I could drive it however I wanted and have the motor last a very long time. I did alot of research and went with the budget fuel upgrade kit:
-Supra Brown Top Injectors (330cc)
-Walbro 190lph fuel pump
-Unichip Tuner custom tuned for this setup
-2 Step Colder Plugs
I spent about $450 on this setup and it is basically the same setup URD had when they first released their fuel upgrade kit. If I was you I'd throw some supra injectors in it and 190lph fuel pump with the colder plugs and I bet your truck won't run lean anymore. The tuning with the unichip lets me squeeze more power out of this setup but I think the stock ecu can handle the extra fuel fine. I read that a guy installed a walbro 190 pump on his supercharged truck with no other fuel mods and it lowered his EGTs by about 200 degrees. You could try just doing that to start off with. I believe that the stock fuel pump can't flow enough fuel at high rpm to keep up with what the injectors need. Also make sure that the Free FMU mod has been done on the FMU behind the supercharger. That may help get you a little more fuel line pressure.

BUT I think your first step should be to trick that 1 sensor into thinking it's getting a good reading. That way you can eliminate the CEL. Later down the road sometime you can dig into fixing the bad sensor.

 

[chris360hawks]

Here is some good reading:

CEL code P0330 - the saga - YotaTech Forums

 

[trailmix]

my 2000 runner that chris is referring to was a 5 speed and i never once got it to ping and it had no fuel mods like he mentioned. I was running 2 step colder plugs and a timing box that did nothing but allow you to adjust timing. The previous owner had been running a urd 2.2 pulley on it before i bought it and it would not ping with the small pulley unless you punched it at 3 grand. I put the stock pulley back on before i even left his house with the truck and never had a problem with it. It would easily keep up with chris's truck to. My truck ran great and i never had a single problem and therefore could not justify spending money on it that was not totally necessary. I didnt see anywhere where you said if you had any type of timing controller on your truck nacho but if you dont, that would definitely be a worth while upgrade, along with the colder plugs. These superchargers were originally designed to be run without any fuel mods and in my case i did not find them necessary.

 

[nacho]

C360H... I did read that P0330 CEL saga on the YotaTech forum. I can't remember the guys name off hand, but he had "tricked" his ECU into not getting a bad reading from his one bad sensor by splicing it in with his other good sensor. I believe he did this at the wire harness and it worked fine for him.

Below that post about the saga, a member called Maison posted that he had done the same thing...except he spliced the wires right at the ECU so he didn't have to take off his SC and the manifold to get to the harness or sensors. That's what I think I'm going to try. Maison said he got all his power back and never had a CEL for 3 years. That bought him time to replace the harness and both sensors later when he could afford it.

I need to locate my ECU and try to figure out what wires to splice now.
------

This is for Trailmix -

I'm glad you are one of the lucky ones that has great performance w/o any real expensive fuel mods or upgrade kits.

Do you have a TMC in your truck or was that just a suggestion?

I was looking into getting a TMC but not sure which one to get yet.

I liked the one Split Second used to sell...the TMC 1.1 that had a dial
in it where you could advance the timing to fit your set-up...but SS doesn't make them anymore for some reason. The price was very reasonable at about $150. I think.

I have been running 2 step colder plugs for a couple of months now.
NGK BCPR7ET (5509) or (2164) depending on which the parts store.
They were gapped at .043 as recommended by the manual. There are no misfires.

I think I might try splicing the 1bank sensor to the 2bank sensor at the ECU to see if that fools the ECU into thinking all is fine. I just need to find out what wires to splice now.

 

[trailmix]

Ya i had the split second in that truck and it worked well. You could just pop the cover off and rotate that dial to advance or re**** the timing, very simple and easy to use. Id buy one if you could find a used one somewhere because they are a very inexpensive solution to the problem. Its funny how everyone of these darn trucks behave differently with superchargers on them, some dont seem to like having air crammed down their throats while others love it!

 

[chris360hawks]

I did the splice trick on mine about a year ago when I first started getting a knock sensor code. You don't need to pull the intake manifold in order to do the trick and you don't need to splice them at the ecu. The wire runs from underneath the intake manifold out and up behind the timing cover. If you are facing your truck and look to the left of the supercharger, in front of the passenger fuel rail, and right behind the back of the timing cover you can see the knock harness and pull enough of it out to perform a splice. I believe the harness near the connector consists of three wires: one gray, one brown, and one black (ground I think). What I did was figure out which wire goes to which sensor by looking at the Toyota diagram and then performed the splice, so the bad sensor no longer sent a signal.

The splice worked great until now. Truck ran like normal and never threw a code. Now either the harness has deteriorated completely or the other sensor is bad. I'm going to be repairing the sensors and harness over thanksgiving holiday.

 

[chris360hawks]

You can also usually find the current controller that split second makes for URD that controls both timing and injectors for a couple hundred bucks off random automotive forums. The downside to this controller is that you need to have tuning software and a AFR reader to get it all tuned in properly. Thats the beauty of the unichip, plug and play!

 

[nacho]

The harness is black, right? Can I un-clip it at the connector or do I have to cut into the harness? If there's only 3 wires, then it should be
pretty easy.

I'm a little bit nervous about pulling too hard on that old brittle harness and have it fall apart on me, but this way does sound a lot better than going in at the ECU to splice it.

Would you happen to know where I could get a copy of that diagram? The one that shows which one is the ground? If I knew which one was the ground wire, then I can just splice the other 2 remaining wires together?

I sure don't want to fry something by hooking up the wrong wires.

Chris, would you mind giving me just a little more detail on how to do this?
I'm pretty ok with wiring if I can find them.....lol. Thanks for your help!!!!!!

 

[nacho]

Ya i had the split second in that truck and it worked well. You could just pop the cover off and rotate that dial to advance or re**** the timing, very simple and easy to use. Id buy one if you could find a used one somewhere because they are a very inexpensive solution to the problem. Its funny how everyone of these darn trucks behave differently with superchargers on them, some dont seem to like having air crammed down their throats while others love it!

I would buy one of those TMC 1.1 too if I could find one. Everyone that had one said it was a great solution to the knock/ping problem after putting on the SC. TRD should have included one with every SC they sold or installed.

That little dial made it very easy to change your timing like you said, and the price was right.