Looks like a timing belt and water pump job is in my future

I have to ask why one holds on to used seals? :noidea:

Hehe, only because one simply hasn't had the time to go through all the old parts that he is removing, and decide what to keep and what to purge. I got chastised here once for throwing out old ball joints, so once bitten twice shy.

And no worries, I am not holding on to the seals with any thought of reusing them - but it did come in handy in this case for thegipper, didn't it? :)
 
Hehe, only because one simply hasn't had the time to go through all the old parts that he is removing, and decide what to keep and what to purge. I got chastised here once for throwing out old ball joints, so once bitten twice shy.

And no worries, I am not holding on to the seals with any thought of reusing them - but it did come in handy in this case for thegipper, didn't it? :)

Who in their right mind would give you guff for throwing out a used part that is known to fail?:confused: :bounce:

I have had 15 years of luck for installing seals using a tack hammer, tapping around the seal ever so gently after coating the inner lip with grease and the outer rim with a light dab of oil. My first time was on a 300zx, five seals in all.
https://www.estwing.com/products/tack-hammer
 
I have had 15 years of luck for installing seals using a tack hammer, tapping around the seal ever so gently after coating the inner lip with grease and the outer rim with a light dab of oil. My first time was on a 300zx, five seals in all.
https://www.estwing.com/products/tack-hammer

Good suggestion! The seals went in pretty easily if I recall, so they can probably be carefully tapped in just fine using a tool like this. But a nice seal driver would be good, if he can find one.
 
Who in their right mind would give you guff for throwing out a used part that is known to fail?:confused: :bounce:

I have had 15 years of luck for installing seals using a tack hammer, tapping around the seal ever so gently after coating the inner lip with grease and the outer rim with a light dab of oil. My first time was on a 300zx, five seals in all.
https://www.estwing.com/products/tack-hammer

Been there, done that.

That was the back up plan.

Thanks again fellas
 
Well guys, I'm off to a rough start.

My donor vehicle has an aftermarket crank pulley (LC engineering?). I used my holder tool my brother made but one of the grade 8 bolts sheared off in the pulley! Plus, I think pulley is aluminum??

I tried again with just one bolt and managed to get the crank bolt off. Well the pulley isn't sliding off and now that I only have one hole to use, I'd say it's worthless now anyway.

Looks like I need to order a new crank pulley.

And hopefully I can get my crank bolt off my 97 with the starter bump method.

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Well guys, I'm off to a rough start.

My donor vehicle has an aftermarket crank pulley (LC engineering?). I used my holder tool my brother made but one of the grade 8 bolts sheared off in the pulley! Plus, I think pulley is aluminum??

I tried again with just one bolt and managed to get the crank bolt off. Well the pulley isn't sliding off and now that I only have one hole to use, I'd say it's worthless now anyway.

Looks like I need to order a new crank pulley.

And hopefully I can get my crank bolt off my 97 with the starter bump method.

Good luck Mike! Take a (beer) break if things aren't going your way, and regroup.
 
Well guys, I'm off to a rough start.

My donor vehicle has an aftermarket crank pulley (LC engineering?). I used my holder tool my brother made but one of the grade 8 bolts sheared off in the pulley! Plus, I think pulley is aluminum??

I tried again with just one bolt and managed to get the crank bolt off. Well the pulley isn't sliding off and now that I only have one hole to use, I'd say it's worthless now anyway.

Looks like I need to order a new crank pulley.

And hopefully I can get my crank bolt off my 97 with the starter bump method.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

You didn't use the puller from HF?

I'd wait and make sure you had a new harmonic dampener in hand before moving forward, knowing that the one on your 97 isn't 100% in tact.

Use one of these to pull off the 99 balancer. Works well. Have used this method on other engines when the correct tools weren't available. Or use a grinder, done that too.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27078
 
Well I got good news. Starter bump method worked perfectly to get the crank bolt off my truck. Let the fun begin.

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I couldn't use the HF puller because one of the bolts broke off in the pulley on the donor vehicle.

The good news is, I got the crank bolt off and the pulley off my rig using gas the HF puller once the crank bolt was off.

Starter bump method works amazing. I also know for a fact that the crank bolt was torqued to 217 ft/lbs because I personally did it. I checked it last summer to make sure it was to spec because my brother didn't have a torque wrench and winged it.

In case anyone was wondering, this is what's wrong with my crank pulley. The donut center part fell off a couple years ago.
f129ba48ba7d5b67d8549a7e0f007481.jpg


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Cesar, my 4R isn't my DD so it can sit in my garage for however long it takes to get the job done.

I will order a new crank pulley tonight though. I'm going to start taking everything else off.

i'll keep ya guys posted.
 
Congrats then. The bump start method isn't hard at all and saves time. One has to be willing to throw caution to the wind though.

Salt and Toyos don't play well together. With the new HB your engine should run a little smoother.

Keep us posted.
 
Good progress! While you're waiting for your new pulley, you might tackle the crank gear, in case it decides to throw a curveball your way and require more parts chasing!
 
Crank gear is off (essentially slipped right off). Got both the idler pulleys off (that bolt in the tensioner pulley is hard to find!), water pump is off.

I'm pretty sure that was the original WP. It had gasket sealer but no gasket. 215k miles before it started leaking, not bad. In fact, the WP looks great, I think just the gasket sealer failed.

The only other hiccup is the washer behind the tensioner pulley fell off and for the life of me, I cannot find it.

Does anyone have the part number for it? I'm going to have to buy one unless it magically appears.

That's as far as I got tonight. I had a few too many beers and I'm pooped. Still waiting on parts and need to fab up a cam pulley holder tomorrow.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
The only other hiccup is the washer behind the tensioner pulley fell off and for the life of me, I cannot find it.

Does anyone have the part number for it? I'm going to have to buy one unless it magically appears.

If you mean 13515A, then it's WASHER, PLATE(FOR DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR), Part Number: 90201-10098. Hopefully yours will magically show up.

 
That's the one Leon, I searched....and searched....and searched and cannot find it.

I swear it grew legs and ran away!

I'll call the dealership this morning, hopefully they have one in stock otherwise I'll just order one.
 
So I'm not sure what I should do about the HB. I know for a fact that the one I have, although it is missing the inner doughnut, works just fine. That inner piece has been off the truck for years without any issues. It does make it a little more difficult to use the homemade tool to hold it in place while torquing the crank bolt but it can be done.

An OEM HB is $300+, that's just not happening.

Aftermarket options are, ATP, Dorman for about 160ish dollars.

Ebay has used OEM ones, not really liking that idea. They also have some new ones from who knows where for about 80 bucks.

Thoughts?

Honestly, I'm leaning towards just reusing mine since I know it works.
 

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