Loud Popping Only Off Road - Sway Bar binding?

[Annolino122]

Been off roading a number of times since the new set up was installed, but the last 2 times out it seems like occasionally my husband and I will hear a loud binding pop from the front end.

We have checked everything and it's right, but wondering if the sway bar could make such a sound?

We have an extended travel ICON suspension kit for reference, just trying to find out what is causing it.

Cam bolts had come loose before and we tightened those and a small popping sound when starting or stopping went away, so we knew to check that. Also this sound is less frequent than that and a lot louder, again, a more binding popping sound.

Thanks

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Verify that your lower control arm bolts are torqued to 130ft.lbs, if they are under-torqued you can get squeaking, popping, and so on.

I would also inspect the springs of the front coilovers for evidence of rubbing (do you guys have a sway bar relocate installed? I do believe the ICON kits come with them). Also look at the upper control arms, did you guys install aftermarket uppers or are they stock? The stock UCA can catch on the springs on full extension and pop, I see it a lot when I rack them.

Also double check all the hardware you touched, after installing a new lift it's not a bad idea to recheck torque after a few hundred miles.

 

[Annolino122]

Verify that your lower control arm bolts are torqued to 130ft.lbs, if they are under-torqued you can get squeaking, popping, and so on.

I would also inspect the springs of the front coilovers for evidence of rubbing (do you guys have a sway bar relocate installed? I do believe the ICON kits come with them). Also look at the upper control arms, did you guys install aftermarket uppers or are they stock? The stock UCA can catch on the springs on full extension and pop, I see it a lot when I rack them.

Also double check all the hardware you touched, after installing a new lift it's not a bad idea to recheck torque after a few hundred miles.

We have all ICON UCA, brake line relocation kit, sway bar I think you are right on the relocation kit but we will double check

But yeah we will check all the clearances and make sure everything is good, retorque it all, and also planning on adding some marine grease as well hoping to help

There is only so much up front that can make that sound, just seems hard to find

 

[BlackWorksInc]

[MENTION=273642]Annolino122[/MENTION]

One other thing, did you guys install a diff drop kit? If you did, did you install spacers for the skid plate? Otherwise it will be right up against the bottom of the differential (also, if you did; look at the breather lines on the driver's side where the steering shaft goes into the rack; apparently when you diff drop these Toyotas, it'll stretch the breather lines right into the clamps for the power steering line allowing moisture into the ADD and causing premature failure; just bend the lines away from the steering rack).

I would maybe avoid using any heavy/tacky greases except for where instructed (like UCA bushings/ball joints/etc.) the reason is that they'll collect dust, dirt, and debris and make things worse. In our area we have a lot of lava rock so they dust is very abrasive and causes squeaks all the time if you don't regularly clean/maintain heim joints and such; guys get lazy and will try to "fix" their squeak with thick grease and it becomes this grinding paste that still squeaks and is a ***** to clean. I would use something like a dry-film Teflon/silicon spray (I like Tri-Flow, but there are others out there), I also will use a light coat of molybdenum-sulfide grease on certain contact surfaces such as the steering stops, and behind the cam adjusters. Moly has the nice characteristic of not being too tacky and filling in imperfections in metal so a light coat goes a long way in terms of lubrication.

OH! Speaking of steering stops, inspect your steering stops! If the popping is happening on tight turns (nearly or at steering lock) and significant compression/extension then it might be the steering stop catching on the lower ball joint mount. When we lift our 4Runners the steering stops get misaligned and have a habit of catching on bumps at full lock; gets worse the more out of factory specification your suspension is (think high caster, big wheels, etc.) in my case with my 35's I had to actually weld some plating onto the factory steering stop and adjust them to both limit my steering (so the tires wouldn't eat up the frame from rubbing) and to alleviate the horrible pop clunk I got; I'll probably need to shape them again as I hear it catching lately.

 

[Annolino122]

[MENTION=273642]Annolino122[/MENTION]

One other thing, did you guys install a diff drop kit? If you did, did you install spacers for the skid plate? Otherwise it will be right up against the bottom of the differential (also, if you did; look at the breather lines on the driver's side where the steering shaft goes into the rack; apparently when you diff drop these Toyotas, it'll stretch the breather lines right into the clamps for the power steering line allowing moisture into the ADD and causing premature failure; just bend the lines away from the steering rack).

I would maybe avoid using any heavy/tacky greases except for where instructed (like UCA bushings/ball joints/etc.) the reason is that they'll collect dust, dirt, and debris and make things worse. In our area we have a lot of lava rock so they dust is very abrasive and causes squeaks all the time if you don't regularly clean/maintain heim joints and such; guys get lazy and will try to "fix" their squeak with thick grease and it becomes this grinding paste that still squeaks and is a ***** to clean. I would use something like a dry-film Teflon/silicon spray (I like Tri-Flow, but there are others out there), I also will use a light coat of molybdenum-sulfide grease on certain contact surfaces such as the steering stops, and behind the cam adjusters. Moly has the nice characteristic of not being too tacky and filling in imperfections in metal so a light coat goes a long way in terms of lubrication.

OH! Speaking of steering stops, inspect your steering stops! If the popping is happening on tight turns (nearly or at steering lock) and significant compression/extension then it might be the steering stop catching on the lower ball joint mount. When we lift our 4Runners the steering stops get misaligned and have a habit of catching on bumps at full lock; gets worse the more out of factory specification your suspension is (think high caster, big wheels, etc.) in my case with my 35's I had to actually weld some plating onto the factory steering stop and adjust them to both limit my steering (so the tires wouldn't eat up the frame from rubbing) and to alleviate the horrible pop clunk I got; I'll probably need to shape them again as I hear it catching lately.

Thanks for all the advise! We did not do the diff drop kit, so we appreciate the information but it won't be that.

I got suggested by Running4Tacos to use the grease from Napa but we also have tri-flo as well, maybe we will start with that instead.

As for the steering stops, we know that's a thing but not this case. We have the popping while going straight.

I got a video of my husband driving, and you can hear the popping , maybe this will help?

Kelly Flats, CO | GoPro

 

[honda250xtitan]

i replaced my UCA through bolt, it fixed my popping sound. I rebuild the uppers with new ball joint and bushings before, no change. soon as i changed the long through bolt it fixed it. cheap and easy to try.

 

[Annolino122]

i replaced my UCA through bolt, it fixed my popping sound. I rebuild the uppers with new ball joint and bushings before, no change. soon as i changed the long through bolt it fixed it. cheap and easy to try.

We will give that a shot too if nothing else works!

 

[honda250xtitan]

We will give that a shot too if nothing else works!

it should be the last thing you check IMO. they rarely bend.

unhook sway bar, check if pop is there

check ICON spherical bearing on the lower control arm mount

upper bushings, and ball joint/delta joint/uniball

etc

 

[Annolino122]

it should be the last thing you check IMO. they rarely bend.

unhook sway bar, check if pop is there

check ICON spherical bearing on the lower control arm mount

upper bushings, and ball joint/delta joint/uniball

etc

Okay thank you!