Loud Squeaking rear wheel

[greeney]

I've read every thread on here I could find about wheel squeaks but none that sound like mine. Right rear wheel squeaking loudly, increasing and decreasing with revolutions of wheel. At slow speed: squeak.....squeak......squeak. At 50mph: squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak. A few weeks ago it was just for a few miles after startup on cool mornings then would quiet down.

Braking does not affect it.It's usually loud enough that when I pass somebody on the street, they turn around, like "what the #@$! Wouldn't a bad wheel bearing sound more like a steady groan? 2000 SR5 4X4.

 

[JMat]

Are you sure it's from one of the rear wheels? Is there any grinding or vibration that goes along with it?

 

[octanejunkie]

if you jack the rear of the vehicle and rotate the wheels by hand (trans in neutral) do you hear the squeaking noise?

have you visually inspected the rear brakes/drums with the wheels off? This is a good way to check for a failing axle seal as the drum will probably be wet - if it's a wheel bearing/seal issue it will get worse soon enough.

If everything looks good I would try disconnecting the e-brake cable at both wheels and drive around the block to see if the squeaking is still there

 

[gamefreakgc]

Get that rig up on jack stands and start turning wheels. Figure out which one it is and then remove the tire to get a closer look. You'll have much more to go off than just "one of my wheels squeak". Without hearing it, we have little to go off to help.

 

[MStudt]

Look for fluid running down the back side of your wheels/tires. You could have a bad wheel bearing causing this. If your wheel bearing is bad you'll also have a vibration/shake in the steering wheel.

You can also pull your ABS sensor. If the gear ring is wet you have a bad axle seal, and that would be caused by a bad wheel bearing.

Mike

 

[greeney]

It's definitely the right rear wheel. I sat in the back with windows down while my wife drove it. I'm schedules to get it up a rack monday to take a look look. Thanks to you all for good suggestions to take to the mechanic.

 

[greeney]

Just to update, a mechanic diagnosed this as bad rear U-Joint. He drove it, put it on the rack, removed the rear shaft and showed me rough spot when rotating the joint. Will be replacing with used drive shaft and joints. I could have sworn it was a wheel problem, but what do I know . . . .. One of the nice things about an indie mechanic over a dealership: they let you stand under the car and handle the parts.

 

[3bears]

Just to update, a mechanic diagnosed this as bad rear U-Joint. He drove it, put it on the rack, removed the rear shaft and showed me rough spot when rotating the joint. Will be replacing with used drive shaft and joints. I could have sworn it was a wheel problem, but what do I know . . . .. One of the nice things about an indie mechanic over a dealership: they let you stand under the car and handle the parts.

interesting it was a ujoint, but that is good that you found it and it wasn't an axle seal. And true, indie mechanics will let you get hands on and look, haven't found a shop in years that would help me twist wrenches, but they all let me get under and look or feel around

 

[greeney]

Another update on bad u joint that was replaced with a rear used shaft when I was on vacation. I noticed vibration when letting off the gas at 60 mph and up. Took it to my local mechanic to see if it was installed correctly. He said 2 of the 8 washers were left off and that might be enough to keep things out of balance. Are the tolerances that exacting that wrong washers could throw the balance off? He didn't have the exact correct washers but put on what he had and suggested I might want to get the OEM match washers and see if that cures the problem. I think his 2 washers may have helped a little but still having vibration at speed on deceleration. Next step is to remove the rear shaft and take it to the drivetrain shop and let them check it out. I'm not the mechanic most of you guys are but I think I can back it up on ramps and remove the shaft myself and take it in.

 

[AntleredRuin]

Wait so you didn't replace the u-joints, you just put in a used driveshaft with old u-joints, joint health unknown?

To be honest, I'd let the shop change the u-joints out with new ones, on your old driveshaft. Sounds like that driveshaft is balanced at least.

I have an indie shop near me that did my u-joints for $150 parts and labor with a 2 year warranty, when I brought them the driveshaft.
It would have been in the $400 range if I brought the whole truck in, but dropping/reinstalling the driveshaft is cake compared to pounding or pressing u-joints.

(horror story; I tried to replace my own u-joints originally and cracked an impact rated socket trying to pound them out fro a BFH. So I caved and rented the big press. And proceeded to literally squish the u-joint because it was so stuck in the yoke. It completely split, grease and bearings everywhere. When I finally got it out, I found that the driveshaft yoke was now deformed from the press, so the new ones couldn't be installed. Got a junkyard driveshaft that lasted for over a year, and then those u-joints went. Said **** it, and took it to the indie shop. Best $150 i ever spent)

 

[nissanh]

Yes, it can vibrate even with a slight out of balance.

GET OEM U-joints. Other brands are garbage. I once (only once had GMB) and within few 1000 miles this thing went bad.

Tons of videos on how to replace the Ujoint (see timmy the tool man and/or south main auto). You need a hammer, pliers, vise. Once you install the OEM U joint and the clips back in, no need to balance the shaft.

 

[mtbtim]

For those finding this thread, a better choice would have been to just replace the bad u-joint instead of putting in a used driveshaft which might have a u-joint and double cardan joint with a ton of miles on them and ready to fail too.

Here's a video for replacing the rear u-joint on the rear driveshaft on one of our rigs:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6arj3PpT1p4" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[AntleredRuin]

For those finding this thread, a better choice would have been to just replace the bad u-joint instead of putting in a used driveshaft which might have a u-joint and double cardan joint with a ton of miles on them and ready to fail too.

Here's a video for replacing the rear u-joint on the rear driveshaft on one of our rigs:

That's absolutely genius. I've never seen anyone use a pitman arm puller on u-joints before.

 

[greeney]

I'll see if this drivetrain shop can rebuild the u-joints as well as balance. Thanks for the great information.