Low Gas Mileage

Andyspsu

New member
2005 SR5, 200k, Daystar Leveling Kit, 265x70 Toyo Open Country, bull bar with PIAAs, and a Surco Roof Rack.

My gas mileage has plummeted, now averaging around 13.5. Short of taking it back to stock, any thoughts on how to get it back up to the 20-21 it used to be?
 
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2005 SR5, 200k, Daystar Leveling Kit, 265x70 Toyo Open Country, bull bar with PIAAs, and a Surco Roof Rack.

My gas mileage has plummeted, now averaging around 13.5. Short of taking it back to stock, any thoughts on how to get it back up to the 20-21 it used to be?

20-21 is what I'd expect a stock 4th gen to get doing like 95% highway. Are you saying that now you're getting 13.5 with it almost entirely highway?

Are those P or LT tires? If they're LT, that extra weight is probably where the vast majority of your MPG loss is from.
 
2005 SR5, 200k, Daystar Leveling Kit, 265x70 Toyo Open Country, bull bar with PIAAs, and a Surco Roof Rack.

My gas mileage has plummeted, now averaging around 13.5. Short of taking it back to stock, any thoughts on how to get it back up to the 20-21 it used to be?

V6 or v8?

Either way, I’d at least start with a good tune up (plugs, air filter, tb cleaning, maf cleaning, ecu reset, check tire pressure, synthetic diff fluids if they’ve never been done, etc)
 
No codes? If so, it could be a timing thing with a stretched chain or bad solenoid. Did it happen over time or suddenly?
 
they are LTs...I am due for a new set soon, is there a huge difference btwn LT and P? weight, price, or otherwise?
 
they are LTs...I am due for a new set soon, is there a huge difference btwn LT and P? weight, price, or otherwise?

LT tires are usually about $60 more per tire, and significantly heavier. But also much less likely to get punctured, especially the sidewall. Your tires specifically, the P-rated version weigh 39lbs each, the LT are 49lbs. Granted, doing all highway driving, that still shouldn't matter much. But in stop-and-go driving, having to accelerate additional rotational weight is much, much harder.
 
All these numbers are approximates but...

An empty roof rack can effect fuel economy by 3-5% at highway speeds.

Bull bars ~1-2%

Leveling kit (0.5-1in) can effect it another 2-3% because of increased frontal cross section.

Those effects are from drag alone and don't count the effects of increased weight during acceleration.

Your tires are also ~7% larger than stock (by circumference) so if your going taking your mileage from the on-board computer you need to account for the difference. Add in the increased weight of the mods and 200k miles of wear and tear...

I'd start by calculating your fuel economy manually (if you haven't already). You might actually be better off than you think. Then I'd do a general tune up. If that doesn't get you where you want to be than you cans either start deleting mods or start checking compression, timing, then O2 sensors. Rarely, a bad sensor won't trip a CEL but will cause the truck to run rich.
 
Tru that on the tire size.
Cold weather plus that, plus maybe air pressure in tires.
My roof rack and brush guard and lift only were about 1mpg difference total but I'm on stock tires now.
Try to use a gps app to determine your speedo variance and it could be less awful than you think.
Or check your maintenance items, too for good measure
 
All these numbers are approximates but...

An empty roof rack can effect fuel economy by 3-5% at highway speeds.

Bull bars ~1-2%

Leveling kit (0.5-1in) can effect it another 2-3% because of increased frontal cross section.

Those effects are from drag alone and don't count the effects of increased weight during acceleration.

Your tires are also ~7% larger than stock (by circumference) so if your going taking your mileage from the on-board computer you need to account for the difference. Add in the increased weight of the mods and 200k miles of wear and tear...

I'd start by calculating your fuel economy manually (if you haven't already). You might actually be better off than you think. Then I'd do a general tune up. If that doesn't get you where you want to be than you cans either start deleting mods or start checking compression, timing, then O2 sensors. Rarely, a bad sensor won't trip a CEL but will cause the truck to run rich.

And make sure you know how many miles you're actually travelling. I don't know how the odometer on these trucks works, but if your tires are any size other than stock you could be messing up the odometer reading.
 
If it makes you feel any better, I get like 10 mpg around town, and up to 14 or 15 on the highway. That has progressively gotten worse as I’ve added roof rack, rtt, 3” lift, and cooper st maxx tires in 255/80/17.

I also found a brake caliper dragging so badly I had to gas it to move the vehicle. I have a feeling both fronts are dragging a tiny bit just haven’t torn into them yet. And I’m pretty sure I have at least 1 or 2 o2 sensors or cats going bad.

All that stuff is stuff you can check. Also adding weight and stuff on top makes things worse.


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