low oil pressure at 550 RPM

[sleepydad]

Ok I know there are a couple of other treads out there with almost exactly this same issue. however, of course nobody ever really seemed to solve it or have a decent answer.

I just replaced my engine with a re-man. it came with a new ASIN oil pump. yes I used a gasket on the oil pickup, also used blue lock on those nuts that attach the uptake. Also using a toyota OEM oil filter. 5-30 conventional oil as well because break in procedures called for it. Will switch over to synthetic after I hit 5000 miles, also per break in procedures.

pressure primed then engine, oil pressure indicator went out while I turned the engine over 3-4 times 10-15 seconds each without the plugs in it and the fuel pump unplugged.

Started the engine and it fired right up and sounds great.

so far so good no drama, yet.

about 100 miles into this new engine after about 30 mins of driving once everything is heat soaked when I pull up to a stop and it drops to 550 RPMs the low oil pressure dash light flickers on and off like it's right on the edge.

when it a cold start or even just 15 mins of driving the low oil pressure does not do this even when I hit 550 RPM's.

if I give it a tiny bit of gas or put in in neutral and hit 560+ RPM's the light goes out.

I ordered a 1/8" 28 BSPT to 1/8" NPT 27 adapter for my oil pressure gauge. So I will be able to tell for sure what the heck is going on.

I was hoping to wait to change the oil but I guess I can also drain it, change the filter and scope the screen on the uptake. If there was anything on it or the filter is clogged with break in particles... I guess this might cause an issue.

Wondering if anybody has solved this one because it seems like it happens on re-mans from all the forum post I have read so far.

thanks

 

[LittleCaesar]

Did they run the engine before shipping it to you? Crazy if they didn’t. I remember the one time I aided in putting in a crate 350 engine we used a break in oil, dumped it after a 15 minute run, then ran 10w-40 for 1000 miles.

I guess though you will be spitballing until have some concrete numbers.

 

[sleepydad]

Did they run the engine before shipping it to you? Crazy if they didn’t. I remember the one time I aided in putting in a crate 350 engine we used a break in oil, dumped it after a 15 minute run, then ran 10w-40 for 1000 miles.

I guess though you will be spitballing until have some concrete numbers.

I guess I never asked about a run test. They would have to completely build it up and tear it back down to do that. Like you said I will know more once I get the adapter. I should have put an oil pressure gauge in while I was doing it... it did cross my mind, but lines have to be drawn.

It’s a nice strong running engine otherwise.

I will do a compression test while I’m at it now that it’s almost officially broken in. Nice to know what it’s showing from the get go.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I can’t say with 100% certainty but I believe one needs at least 5psi at hot idle for the light not to come on.

If you find that you are below that threshold, I would drain the oil and see if the oil glitters something fierce. For your sake you may want to record doing such.

Good luck. I know it has been a real PITA.

 

[sleepydad]

I can’t say with 100% certainty but I believe one needs at least 5psi at hot idle for the light not to come on.

If you find that you are below that threshold, I would drain the oil and see if the oil glitters something fierce. For your sake you may want to record doing such.

Good luck. I know it has been a real PITA.

I went out and picked up 10 qts of oil.. 2 filters and a 12 pack of EPA.

I also changed the oil, filter to see if it would make any difference. it did not.

so... once I'm up to operating temp

my pressures will go between 0 PSI @ 550 RPMs - 25 PSI @ 3000+ RPMs

so here is the plan after talking to Yotashop. I'm going to grab the union off my spare engine from the oil filter. the bolt that holds the oil cooler is the same threads and you can actually run an oil filter from that same position. so I will run 2 oil filters and see if there is a change in pressure? if there is then odds are it's the oil cooler. if it's not the oil cooler then it still might be the pickup. but we both know how much that one is to re-do.

makes sense start using a process of elimination and see if it's something from my old engine before I re-pull it out and send it back to them.

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[LittleCaesar]

See any flakes in the oil? That would suck if you have to pull the engine. The engine just sounds like a Diesel engine IMHO.

Do you have a leak down tester? With all your cool toys you must. I would just see how healthy the engine is.

 

[sleepydad]

See any flakes in the oil? That would suck if you have to pull the engine. The engine just sounds like a Diesel engine IMHO.

Do you have a leak down tester? With all your cool toys you must. I would just see how healthy the engine is.

it's the super charger that makes it sound like a diesel.

the oil has silver in it, I would expect it to have some in it. fresh pistons/rings/cams/crank/valves have all been done.

it's a strong engine, it pulls well with the headers and super charger.

so I swapped the oil cooler for a filter and I ran it in the driveway for about 15 mins. I kept 4psi at idle but still topped out about 28 psi @ or above 3000 RPMs. I would expect it to be much higher, I think.

so without the oil cooler it keeps pressure @ idle. I don't know maybe my old oil cooler is clogged?

I will keep messing with it and try to figure it out. see if I can cable tie things into place tomorrow and go for a solid 30 min drive and see what the pressure is when I get back. that will be more of an apples to apples compare.

it's late I'm tired and the kids want to sleep in the rooftop tent in the driveway.. sigh.

 

[Js'00imited4runner]

Oil pressure light

Oh the dreaded low oil pressure light...when I bought my 4runner a few years ago the low oil pressure light came on and Stayed on!...I drove it that way on and off for a couple of months (not long). Came to find out I had 0 oil pressure at ANY engine idle speed and it got even worse when it got Hot..Ended up being a good amount of sludge in the oil pan which was suffocating the pickup tube!
Ended up dropping the front diff and pulling the oil pan and found a good amount of build up in the oil pan! Also replaced the connecting rod bearings because they were scored pretty bad from no lube..Ever since then I've been running synthetic blend 5w30 and have only had the Low oil pressure light flicker ever so slightly but maybe a handful of times since I did everything.
From what i've read the 5vz-fe has a very low threshold for when the low oil light comes on. Being that its a reman though you shouldn't have any issues?
Hopefully they stand behind their work and you can get this figured out. Good luck man!

 

[LittleCaesar]

it's the super charger that makes it sound like a diesel.

the oil has silver in it, I would expect it to have some in it. fresh pistons/rings/cams/crank/valves have all been done.

it's a strong engine, it pulls well with the headers and super charger.

so I swapped the oil cooler for a filter and I ran it in the driveway for about 15 mins. I kept 4psi at idle but still topped out about 28 psi @ or above 3000 RPMs. I would expect it to be much higher, I think.

so without the oil cooler it keeps pressure @ idle. I don't know maybe my old oil cooler is clogged?

I will keep messing with it and try to figure it out. see if I can cable tie things into place tomorrow and go for a solid 30 min drive and see what the pressure is when I get back. that will be more of an apples to apples compare.

it's late I'm tired and the kids want to sleep in the rooftop tent in the driveway.. sigh.

Good luck. I wonder if removing the cooler shortened the distance between A and B so to speak, allowing for an increase in pressure?

I do know that when I put in my spin on tranny cooler my overall psi dropped about 2psi but never affected performance.

 

[spartacus]

it's late I'm tired and the kids want to sleep in the rooftop tent in the driveway.. sigh.[/QUOTE]
I feel for you man. you've put in a lot of time and money in this. hope you can figure it out there is a relief valve and spring on the oil cooler that should be coated in oil so it drops in easily. if there is any debrie caught in it may also cause the light to come on
as per the fsm
pressure At idle speed (normal operating temperature)
29 kPa (0.3 kgf/cm2, 4.3 psi) or more
At 3,000 rpm (normal operating temperature)
45 - 520 kPa (2.5 - 5.3 kgf/cm2, 36 - 75 psi)

 

[sleepydad]

it's late I'm tired and the kids want to sleep in the rooftop tent in the driveway.. sigh.

I feel for you man. you've put in a lot of time and money in this. hope you can figure it out there is a relief valve and spring on the oil cooler that should be coated in oil so it drops in easily. if there is any debrie caught in it may also cause the light to come on
as per the fsm
pressure At idle speed (normal operating temperature)
29 kPa (0.3 kgf/cm2, 4.3 psi) or more
At 3,000 rpm (normal operating temperature)
45 - 520 kPa (2.5 - 5.3 kgf/cm2, 36 - 75 psi)[/QUOTE]

For me really it’s not about the $. If it’s was about the $ I would just go buy a used 5th gen and be done with this thing. I just want to drive my truck around again.

I did clean out the oil cooler when I removed it from my old engine. I did find some little chunks of FIP in it, where is the spring thing on the oil cooler?

 

[spartacus]

For me really it’s not about the $. If it’s was about the $ I would just go buy a used 5th gen and be done with this thing. I just want to drive my truck around again.

I did clean out the oil cooler when I removed it from my old engine. I did find some little chunks of FIP in it, where is the spring thing on the oil cooler?[/QUOTE]

I know what you mean but there are moments when you just want to finish a project and enjoy it with your family.
my bad I meant to say oil pump

 

[LittleCaesar]

Do you by chance have the old Toyota OEM pump lying around? When I changed out my TB and all some time ago I ordered a new Aisin fan bracket. Two months later I was getting a serious noise from the bearing. Put the old OEM back on, no more noise. Aisin, while a great parts supplier, isn’t immune from defects.

 

[sleepydad]

[MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION]
[MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION]

I pulled the engine and then beat the crap out of the pan and look what I found in the bottom on that pan.

300 miles fresh re-man... heck yea!

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[spartacus]

[MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION]
[MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION]

I pulled the engine and then beat the crap out of the pan and look what I found in the bottom on that pan.

oh man, it seems like the engine wasn't cleaned properly during the rebuild manufacturing process, some shavings from the breakin process is almost always the case but that much? and if that much stuff is in the bottom of the pan, I would suspect it started out in oil passages to the pan and thru the pump and also got caught in the filter I would cut the filter and see. yotashop has to answer for this.And I think they should compensate you in some way. I've never experienced anything like this wow

 

[LittleCaesar]

That just sucks.

I would be at a loss. Can you get your $$$ back? I am not sure at this point I wouldn’t just look for a nice used engine and hope for the best.

 

[sleepydad]

[MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION]
[MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION]

I pulled the engine and then beat the crap out of the pan and look what I found in the bottom on that pan.

oh man, it seems like the engine wasn't cleaned properly during the rebuild manufacturing process, some shavings from the breakin process is almost always the case but that much? and if that much stuff is in the bottom of the pan, I would suspect it started out in oil passages to the pan and thru the pump and also got caught in the filter I would cut the filter and see. yotashop has to answer for this.And I think they should compensate you in some way. I've never experienced anything like this wow

Incorrect main bearing clearances? Mistakes were made!

It’s under warranty for sure. Will talk to yotashop tomorrow and see what they want to do.

I’m getting pretty good at putting motors in and removing them... down to about 8 hours.

 

[sleepydad]

That just sucks.

I would be at a loss. Can you get your $$$ back? I am not sure at this point I wouldn’t just look for a nice used engine and hope for the best.

Yea man I’m starting to think rolling the dice on junkyard motors might be better than fancy pants reman.

 

[spartacus]

Incorrect main bearing clearances? Mistakes were made!

It’s under warranty for sure. Will talk to yotashop tomorrow and see what they want to do.

I’m getting pretty good at putting motors in and removing them... down to about 8 hours.

That is really really shitty. I for one would be a little miffed. Glad to see your motor swapping skills are getting a boost but still isn't this the second motor they sent you. I think it's time they need to compensate your motor swapping, crating shipping etc. I know you have resources and equipment but sometimes when you put a little pressure on the vendor to make it right and they clearly are in the fault it is beneficial for both parties so you get better at playing musical chairs with heavy motors and the vendor gets better at rebuilding motors lol.

 

[sleepydad]

That is really really shitty. I for one would be a little miffed. Glad to see your motor swapping skills are getting a boost but still isn't this the second motor they sent you. I think it's time they need to compensate your motor swapping, crating shipping etc. I know you have resources and equipment but sometimes when you put a little pressure on the vendor to make it right and they clearly are in the fault it is beneficial for both parties so you get better at playing musical chairs with heavy motors and the vendor gets better at rebuilding motors lol.

I’m going to float the idea. You pay for return shipping, I will crate it up again and when you get it back, you refund my money and we go our separate ways.

They also have not pay me back for my core. They only act when I call them up and complain. It’s really not been the best experience with yotashop. I’m sure if you lived down the street from them it would be great but... I’m far from impressed with any of my interactions with them.