low oil pressure at 550 RPM

[spartacus]

I’m going to float the idea. You pay for return shipping, I will crate it up again and when you get it back, you refund my money and we go our separate ways.

They also have not pay me back for my core. They only act when I call them up and complain. It’s really not been the best experience with yotashop. I’m sure if you lived down the street from them it would be great but... I’m far from impressed with any of my interactions with them.

Sounds like a reasonable request and hope they make it right.

 

[sleepydad]

Sounds like a reasonable request and hope they make it right.

So... after digging into it. I had the valve covers bead blasted. I blew them out and even pressure washed them after but I think what happened was there was a blob of glass stuck someplace under a baffle. I hate to admit it again this one is 100% my fault.

Seems I suck at engine building.

 

[spartacus]

So... after digging into it. I had the valve covers bead blasted. I blew them out and even pressure washed them after but I think what happened was there was a blob of glass stuck someplace under a baffle. I hate to admit it again this one is 100% my fault.

Seems I suck at engine building.[/QUOTE
jeez louise! off all the things glass thats got to be the first. Murphys law I guess. So what are you thinking now?

 

[LittleCaesar]

Wow. That is a first for me. In 27years of shadtree mechanic endeavors, never heard of such. But I have learned that less is more in the long run.

I would still seek out a used engine and go from there. Cut your losses.

 

[sleepydad]

So... after digging into it. I had the valve covers bead blasted. I blew them out and even pressure washed them after but I think what happened was there was a blob of glass stuck someplace under a baffle. I hate to admit it again this one is 100% my fault.

Seems I suck at engine building.[/QUOTE
jeez louise! off all the things glass thats got to be the first. Murphys law I guess. So what are you thinking now?

Wow. That is a first for me. In 27years of shadtree mechanic endeavors, never heard of such. But I have learned that less is more in the long run.

I would still seek out a used engine and go from there. Cut your losses.

I have a 230k decent all original 5vz out of a Cali truck I parted out. So I’m already in the processs of swapping everything non internal to that one and will Then proceed to destroy that one.

 

[phattyduck]

So... after digging into it. I had the valve covers bead blasted. I blew them out and even pressure washed them after but I think what happened was there was a blob of glass stuck someplace under a baffle. I hate to admit it again this one is 100% my fault.

Seems I suck at engine building.

This (or similar) things happen WAY more often than you might think. If the valve covers (or intake manifold, or, or, or) have baffles, etc. they need to be completely removed, even if that means new rivets to put them back in place. Also, the oil cooler should just be replaced if there is any possibility of metallic particles in it.

Remember the oil filter isn't filtering the oil 100% of the time (bypass valve can open when the differential pressure across the filter is too high) so if there are particles anywhere in the oil system it is possible they will get pumped into the bearings.

-Charlie

 

[96RedRunner]

Then proceed to destroy that one.

Good to see your keeping a sense of humor on this! you going to open it up n look inside? :biggrin2:

 

[sleepydad]

This (or similar) things happen WAY more often than you might think. If the valve covers (or intake manifold, or, or, or) have baffles, etc. they need to be completely removed, even if that means new rivets to put them back in place. Also, the oil cooler should just be replaced if there is any possibility of metallic particles in it.

Remember the oil filter isn't filtering the oil 100% of the time (bypass valve can open when the differential pressure across the filter is too high) so if there are particles anywhere in the oil system it is possible they will get pumped into the bearings.

-Charlie

yes I'm learning the hard way. internal of engine = clean room. I try to be transparent about my stupidity so others can learn from my stupid ways. I still kind of feel sick to my stomach about the entire deal but... pain is a teacher.

so... has anybody removed the baffles on the valve covers? I was looking at them and thinking about drilling the aluminium buttons off them so I could clean under them this time around. I started looking for used ones but then I was like... I would want to clean them as well. I should have grabbed new ones, it would have saved me in the long run.

Good to see your keeping a sense of humor on this! you going to open it up n look inside? :biggrin2:

I could get all pissed and mad but that really does me no good at this point.

yea for sure I will open it all the way up. the heads should ok once they are cleaned or can be used for cores. I don't know how hard it is to replace main bearings and check clearances but since I'm destroying engines now... might as well destroy big or go home.

 

[sleepydad]

[MENTION=142122]96RedRunner[/MENTION]
[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION]
[MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION]
[MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION]

it took me all weekend but I swapped everything I could from the re-man engine over to my spare 2000 cali sport engine that has 240K on it... all the the timing stuff, water pump, cam seals, rear seal, headers, some old valve covers and decide to go bone stock. the only thing I did not move over was the 1/2 moons because this cali engines 1/2 moons seemed solid still. I also made sure every thing was as clean as I could just in case.

the engine was a mess of oil down below so once I had everything sealed up I used easy off oven cleaner on the sides of the block, it worked great now I have rusty block instead of a oil soaked block.

I'm also running 2 oil filters, 1 in place of the oil cooler. it's cool in MN right now so I will run this way for a bit until I do a couple of oil changes. I did do a quick drain and fill after about 20 miles and made sure no metal flakes were going to come out.

oil pressure is great 10 psi at idle after about 20 mins of run time and 70 psi at 3000+

I put about 95 miles on it today and everything seems good for now, my fingers are x'ed. I miss my blower but I will run like this for a bit before I destroy this engine.

<a href="https://imgur.com/9un51Fy"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/9un51Fyl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

note: I noticed comparing the new oil pump vs old... the older engines were made much better than the new stuff. so the entire grab a decent old engine and get it running makes a lot of sense to me now. will do it this way again for sure.

I also found the part number for just the water pump gasket

<a href="https://imgur.com/YbkxM4n"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/YbkxM4nl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

 

[LittleCaesar]

You have to be relieved that this saga is over, at least for now.

What sticker is that on the cam cover?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Thanks for posting the water pump gasket. I need that for project that started out as what I thought was a bad head gasket to a bad cylinder liner and a spare engine redo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[spartacus]

[MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION]
So glad you are up and running. 240k is really not that high also I know of a few people that have run the supercharger on higher mileage engines without any issues.

 

[phattyduck]

You have to be relieved that this saga is over, at least for now.

What sticker is that on the cam cover?

Supercharger stickers - belt routing and new spark plug requirements. Also note that it is notched to clear the nose cone...

-Charlie

 

[sleepydad]

You have to be relieved that this saga is over, at least for now.

What sticker is that on the cam cover?

the super charger belt routing diagram and the only use double insulated plugs?

as they say

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

I feel like I kicked myself in the nuts on this one. I feel relieved that the self nut kicking is over for now.

 

[LittleCaesar]

the super charger belt routing diagram and the only use double insulated plugs?

as they say

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

I feel like I kicked myself in the nuts on this one. I feel relieved that the self nut kicking is over for now.

I thought so. I just have never seen that particular one.

I once, in a real naive state, turn a rear diff while in the air and the auto tranny in park. Bad idea. About 10,000 miles and $1500 later, despite my best efforts, I needed a rebuilt 4l60e. Lesson leaned. They aren’t always cheap.