Low Speed Clunking

Unner

New member
So I've got a clunk somewhere in my truck (2001 4Runner 4x4, 195k miles), it sounds like it's coming from the front end or maybe right under the front seats area of the truck. The clunking only happens at low speeds like when pulling into the driveway, going over speed bumps, or turning like in a parking lot.

Other than the noise the truck drives just fine, no vibrations, no loose or sloppy steering, the noise is unnoticeable at any sort of speed really, it drives just like it should on the interstate. It does seem to make the clunking noise If I back up and hit the brakes fast, or do the same thing pulling forward slowly like you would in a driveway and then hit the brakes.

Things that are new:
LCAs (OEM)
LBJ (OEM)
OTRE (OEM)
ITRE (OEM)
Sway bar end links
Poly sway bar bushings
Poly steering rack bushings
Toytec Boss coilovers upfront
LC lift in rear (All OEM and new)
Driveline greased
Rear Control arms retorqued after lift/panhard as well (checked these again last week) None budged.
Front Upper Control Arms retorqued after lift
Steering rack guide retorqued


Sometimes when I step on my sliders to get in the truck I can kinda feel/hear the clunk in them. Other than that I can't recreate the noise by shaking the truck. I always hear the noise when I pull into my driveway. I hear it as the front wheels hit the sloped part (at an angle since I'm tuning) and then again when the rear wheels hit the sloped part.

I'm kinda lost on what this could be. My UBJ's and UCA Bushings don't seem bad and I have perfect tire wear and no poor handling at high speeds which is where I would think any suspension issues would really start to shine, not a low speeds. Alignment is good, and I have no issues getting everything in spec except for the caster, but it's only like .2* away from the stock range.

I have also taken off all of my endlinks and the noise was still there so it shouldn't be anything sway bar related at all. The noise happens in 2wd and 4wd as well.

These are some things that I think could possibly be causing the issue, but I don't want to keep throwing money at it to solve the problem...

1)Body mounts? Do these really go bad? How can I test them?

2)Transmission Mount/Engine Mounts? Seems unlikely but who knows...

3)Frame flex possibly causing unwanted contact somewhere? I've got lots of stuff bolted onto my frame. Addicted Off Road Front Bumper(Noise was there before the bumper for sure), Shrockworks sliders, shrockworks skid plate set. Does this seem possible? How much would a 3rd gen frame really flex pulling into a driveway?

4)Front differential mounting points. I'm talking about right where you would install a diff drop which I do have. There are these rubber washer things (called stoppers per Toyota) The one on the driver side seems a little torn from sitting in oil from oil changes over the years. I believe there are actually bushings in the arms that mount to the diff that aren't replaceable without buying a new arm from Toyota. I searched up and down, but I couldn't find anything on these really. The only people I saw mention them were [MENTION=95069]TBuzz[/MENTION] and [MENTION=10182]smallfry[/MENTION]. Any thoughts on this possible cause?

5)UCA/UBJ. Seems unlikely to me, but possible I suppose.


I appreciate any help or suggestions. I've been searching up and down trying to find what it could be, but I'm at a loss now so I'm turning to you guys for some advice.
 
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When you retorqued the rack guide, did you torque up to the point where your steering would not come back straight by itself, then turn-back to the point where there is just a very slight resistance?

Had to do it this way on mine to get rid of my low speed clunk
 
When you retorqued the rack guide, did you torque up to the point where your steering would not come back straight by itself, then turn-back to the point where there is just a very slight resistance?

Had to do it this way on mine to get rid of my low speed clunk

Yes, this was done like 40-50k miles ago trying to diagnose the play in the steering that I now know is the slip joint in the steering column. I can grab the slip joint under the dash and shake the wheel and feel the play. I just haven't got around to installing a roll pin or tack welds on the slip joint.

It was real tight(the steering) at first and then backed off until it had just the right amount of resistance.
 
The last go around I had on my 4runner was the bushings on the rear lower links went bad despite not being all that old.
 
The last go around I had on my 4runner was the bushings on the rear lower links went bad despite not being all that old.

Yeah I'm thinking about getting a set of rear lower control arms and putting new bushings in them and swapping just so I know they're good to go.

Did you ever end up replacing those stopper things on the front diff mounts?
 
Yes, this was done like 40-50k miles ago trying to diagnose the play in the steering that I now know is the slip joint in the steering column. I can grab the slip joint under the dash and shake the wheel and feel the play. I just haven't got around to installing a roll pin or tack welds on the slip joint.

It was real tight(the steering) at first and then backed off until it had just the right amount of resistance.

I had a "clunk" under the same circumstances. Also, did it basically whenever the truck bounced a little. It turned out it was the LCA mount point of the swaybar end link. Found it by getting under the truck and "bench pressing" the truck getting it rocking a little until I found the source of the clunk. Also, had a milder clunk coming from my LCA mounting bolts. I really thought I got them tight when I did the LCA bushings but they really weren't tight enough. Also, check your lower coilover bolt tighteness.
 
Did you ever end up replacing those stopper things on the front diff mounts?

I didnt have a clunk but replaced my front diff mount upper stopper if thats what you're talking about pn# 4165335030.

The front diff lower stopper pn# 4165426010 is no longer available, according to various online toyota parts dealers, and the superceded part number is for a washer and not an actual bushing.
 
The front diff lower stopper pn# 4165426010 is no longer available, according to various online toyota parts dealers

ZIavsBx.jpg


https://partsouq.com/en/search/search?q=4165426010
 
Yeah I'm thinking about getting a set of rear lower control arms and putting new bushings in them and swapping just so I know they're good to go.

Did you ever end up replacing those stopper things on the front diff mounts?

I don't recall. I think I still may have them in a box in my garage.
 
I just had this same clunk fixed by tightening LCA mounting bolts. One was really loose, could easily turn it with a wrench a few turns. It took me a while to figure out what was causing this. I never thought it would be loose, since I've had the alignment done twice recently, though they would check that, or maybe it was them that forgot to tighten...
 
I had a "clunk" under the same circumstances. Also, did it basically whenever the truck bounced a little. It turned out it was the LCA mount point of the swaybar end link. Found it by getting under the truck and "bench pressing" the truck getting it rocking a little until I found the source of the clunk. Also, had a milder clunk coming from my LCA mounting bolts. I really thought I got them tight when I did the LCA bushings but they really weren't tight enough. Also, check your lower coilover bolt tighteness.

Yeah I know it's not my end links since I disconnected all of them and it still made the noise. LCA's were recently replaced and I made sure the alignment guy torqued the bolts to the 96 ft-lbs per the FSM. Lover coilover bolt was torqued to 101 ft-lbs as well when I did the LCAs a couple weeks ago.

I didnt have a clunk but replaced my front diff mount upper stopper if thats what you're talking about pn# 4165335030.

The front diff lower stopper pn# 4165426010 is no longer available, according to various online toyota parts dealers, and the superceded part number is for a washer and not an actual bushing.

Is the lower stopper that came on our trucks anything more than just a fancy molded washer though? I didn't think there really was a bushing on that part?


May have to try this out.

I don't recall. I think I still may have them in a box in my garage.

Alright, thanks for answering though!

I just had this same clunk fixed by tightening LCA mounting bolts. One was really loose, could easily turn it with a wrench a few turns. It took me a while to figure out what was causing this. I never thought it would be loose, since I've had the alignment done twice recently, though they would check that, or maybe it was them that forgot to tighten...

Yeah I know mine isn't the LCA's being loose, I made sure they were torqued to the factory settings.

I went under there yesterday and looked at the transmission mount and it looks like the rubber is kinda cracked where it meets up to the metal bracket parts. I also tried "bench pressing" the transmission and I kinda got a similair clunk out of it the first time, but couldn't get it again. I'll try and inspect it again today. A new transmission mount is only like $65 from Toyota so I may try replacing that as well as the diff stopper bushings and see.

Still looking for any insight anyone may have though. So far everything I've thought it was and replaced hasn't solved the problem...
 
Is the lower stopper that came on our trucks anything more than just a fancy molded washer though? I didn't think there really was a bushing on that part?

It looks like there's an actual bushing on the lower along with the molded washer.
 
It looks like there's an actual bushing on the lower along with the molded washer.

Hmmm. I can't remember when I did my diff drop if it was just a washer or not. I know there is a bushing inside of the arm that the bolt that mounts the diff goes through. It's like an LCA bushing though where it is pressed in. There isn't a replaceable bushing for it either, only can get the whole arm new.
 
Have you ordered from them before? Did a quick google search and saw a couple reviews but not much else...

Oh yea, plenty of times! It's a Toyota warehouse located in the UAE and they send their packages International Priority which arrives in Midwest USA in about 3 days! Shipping is a bit expensive, but it makes up for it with availability of hard to find items and lower prices.

fsSe8lb.jpg
 
Try jacking the rear up. And take the passenger side wheel of and see if your rear hub is loose or beat. I swear , I changed my front wheel bearings twice both of them. Because there was front end clunking noise. I shit you not, went to change my rear brake piston and notice that my studs are moving all over the place. Turns out my rear wheel bearing is shot. Replaced the bearing the clunking noise went away. It shocked me how far the noise travels. Just jack it up and see if the rear wheel bearing is good.
 
Try jacking the rear up. And take the passenger side wheel of and see if your rear hub is loose or beat. I swear , I changed my front wheel bearings twice both of them. Because there was front end clunking noise. I shit you not, went to change my rear brake piston and notice that my studs are moving all over the place. Turns out my rear wheel bearing is shot. Replaced the bearing the clunking noise went away. It shocked me how far the noise travels. Just jack it up and see if the rear wheel bearing is good.

I'll check up on that. I know the passenger side should still be good, I did the rear axle seal and bearing on that side around 160k ish. I'd have to look at my records.

I was under the truck just grabbing stuff and shaking it earlier today. I did notice that when I grab the driver side tie rod and shake it pretty good I can get a slight bit of play and clunk in it. It can't be heard as much as felt, but there's something there I think. The passenger side doesn't do it.

Maybe after 50k miles the steering rack guide needs to be tightened up just a little bit more? The truck has seen a good bit of rough gravel roads going down by the river, but not a lot of serious hard core off roading really. Maybe it's been kinda knocked loose and needs to be readjusted?
 
I had the same thing as you. All new bushings, end links, CV axles, brakes, etc etc etc. and it turned out my steering rack was toast. I was just gonna do the guide til I discovered the amount of play in it and PS fluid all over the bellows. Replaced that pig and my steering has tightened up significantly and the clunk is gone.
 
I had the same thing as you. All new bushings, end links, CV axles, brakes, etc etc etc. and it turned out my steering rack was toast. I was just gonna do the guide til I discovered the amount of play in it and PS fluid all over the bellows. Replaced that pig and my steering has tightened up significantly and the clunk is gone.

Hoping the rack isn't toast. I know it leaks a little but not even enough that you notice a change in the fluid level.


I got the new diff mount stoppers today. The lower ones do appear to be just molded washers, I'll have to check and see what my factory ones are when I take them off. If they are that then I'll return those to the dealer and get my $25 back.

Hopefully I get them replaced this weekend and a chance to retorque my rack guide. I'll get a closer look at the transmission mount this weekend too since I have to drop my skids to do my transfer case output shaft seal as well.

I'll update once I get them replaced and try retorquing the rack guide.
 
I figured it out finally!

It was my transfer case skid plate hitting the lowest point on the transfer case...

Apparently the Shrockworks Skids are so tight and close that when the transmission and transfer case twist and move and the frame and such moves a little that they were making contact and rubbing. I pulled my skids last night to change those diff mount stoppers, some fluids, and the transfer case seal and decided to drive it before doing anything but removing the skids and the noise was GONE!

Such a stupid cause for such an annoying noise. I think the noise may have been getting worse as the transmission mount aged and allowed more movement so I ordered a new one today that should be here tuesday and I will replace then. I'll probably throw a washer or two above the transfer case skid to space it down just a bit and give enough clearance.

You could see where the bottom of the transfer case was hitting the skid and wore the powder coat off.

I wish I would have figured this out months ago when I started noticing the noise and researching/replacing parts... At least it's a simple fix.


Also, [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] , those bottom diff mount stoppers are only a molded washer, no rubber. I ordered them through my Toyota dealer and will be returning them because I don't want to replace a $12 washer for no reason. Just thought you may want to know.
 

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