Low Speed Clunking

[fourfive]

Also, [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] , those bottom diff mount stoppers are only a molded washer, no rubber. I ordered them through my Toyota dealer and will be returning them because I don't want to replace a $12 washer for no reason. Just thought you may want to know.

Got you. I think the part that i was thinking was a rubber bushing is actually part of the front diff support.

Good to hear you got your clunk figured out!

 

[Unner]

Got you. I think the part that i was thinking was a rubber bushing is actually part of the front diff support.

Good to hear you got your clunk figured out!

Yeah there is a bushing pressed into the metal arm, but it's only replaceable by replacing the entire arm. I think it's more of an isolator for vibrations too. I was inspecting mine and it has a good bit of play back and forth from the front to the rear of the truck, but I don't think it will be an issue since there are all metal points of contact with the diff drop, sleeve in the bushing and the metal washers.

So glad I figured out the clunk, it's so nice not having the truck make that terrible noise.

One more quick question for you. When replacing the transmission mount do I only need to pull the 4 bolts that go into the transmission and the 4 bolts that go into the cross member to disconnect it from everything?

It looks really easy, but I feel like there's a catch somewhere haha

 

[fourfive]

One more quick question for you. When replacing the transmission mount do I only need to pull the 4 bolts that go into the transmission and the 4 bolts that go into the cross member to disconnect it from everything?

It looks really easy, but I feel like there's a catch somewhere haha

That's pretty much it but I had a few extra bolts to remove...

1. Place floor jack on transfer case protector plate to support the transfer case.
2. Remove 4 bolts attaching trans mount to crossmember (13 ft/lbs).
3. Remove 2 bolts attaching exhaust hanger to crossmember (torque spec ?).
4. Remove 4 bolts attaching crossmember to frame (53 ft/lbs).
5. Remove 4 bolts attaching trans mount to transmission (48 ft/lbs).

I used the torque specs from the sticky.

 

[Unner]

That's pretty much it but I had a few extra bolts to remove...

1. Place floor jack on transfer case protector plate to support the transfer case.
2. Remove 4 bolts attaching trans mount to crossmember (13 ft/lbs).
3. Remove 2 bolts attaching exhaust hanger to crossmember (torque spec ?).
4. Remove 4 bolts attaching crossmember to frame (53 ft/lbs).
5. Remove 4 bolts attaching trans mount to transmission (48 ft/lbs).

I used the torque specs from the sticky.

Ah, so you pulled the whole crossmember instead. Do you have to do it this way or do you think it can be done without removing the entire crossmember?

Maybe not with how the center bolt hangs down into the crossmember. Just thought about that...

 

[fourfive]

Ah, so you pulled the whole crossmember instead. Do you have to do it this way or do you think it can be done without removing the entire crossmember?

Maybe not with how the center bolt hangs down into the crossmember. Just thought about that...

I didn't find any instructions on how to do it so I just started unbolting my way to the trans mount. Removing the crossmember was simple & gave me better access to the trans mount. You may be able to do it without removing the crossmember, just didn't think about doing it that way at the time.

 

[AZ_Trails]

Ah, so you pulled the whole crossmember instead. Do you have to do it this way or do you think it can be done without removing the entire crossmember?

Maybe not with how the center bolt hangs down into the crossmember. Just thought about that...

You don't need to pull the crossmember. Should be able to get the center bolt free by using your floor jack to pivot the drivetrain up enough.

Are you going with a stock mount, or have you considered going with the 4xinnovations version?

 

[Unner]

I didn't find any instructions on how to do it so I just started unbolting my way to the trans mount. Removing the crossmember was simple & gave me better access to the trans mount. You may be able to do it without removing the crossmember, just didn't think about doing it that way at the time.

Gotcha, thanks for the advice.

You don't need to pull the crossmember. Should be able to get the center bolt free by using your floor jack to pivot the drivetrain up enough.

Are you going with a stock mount, or have you considered going with the 4xinnovations version?

Thanks, I'm going with a stock mount. I would have gone with the 4X mount but it only works with the 5 speed transmission and mine's an automatic.

 

[Unner]

Just an update for closure on anyone reading this thread later. I replaced the transmission mount Tuesday. I had to take the crossmember off to be able to get it off and on. The center bolt that hangs down gets hung up. I was also surprised to find some rust where the frame and crossmember come together and inside the sleeves for the bolts. I painted the rust and coated the bolts in anti-seize to keep them from rusting again.

Putting the new transmission mount in required me to jack the transmission up a good bit farther than I did to get the old one out. You could also see that the new one was about a centimeter taller than the old one when I sat them on the table next to each other. The old one was pretty shot and it was easy to tell off of the truck. Cracking in the rubber along the metal plates where it mounts and the rubber was hard and stiff, not much give in it, especially in the center piece that goes around that bolt.

Anyway, I got the new one in, without the slight rust repair this job takes like an hours maybe. Test drove it with the skids on and no more clunking!!!

Another nice side effect is the transmission seems to shift a little smoother with the new mount and when you go from park to reverse or drive the transmission doesn't "lurch" as much as it did before. I guess the new mount absorbs more of that than the old worn out mount did.

The truck feels so much more solid now. I hated that noise.

 

[JBurt]

Thanks Unner for being thorough and posting updates all the way through. Glad you got it figured out.

I'm trying to diagnose a clunk too. Mine clunks sporadically when putting into and out of park, and sometimes going from 1st to 2nd. Its very repeatable when making a sharp left turn. Did you have similar issues?

Also did you get the part number for your trans mount?

Edit: I just found FourFive's post with part numbers. Thanks.

 

[Unner]

Thanks Unner for being thorough and posting updates all the way through. Glad you got it figured out.

I'm trying to diagnose a clunk too. Mine clunks sporadically when putting into and out of park, and sometimes going from 1st to 2nd. Its very repeatable when making a sharp left turn. Did you have similar issues?

Also did you get the part number for your trans mount?

Edit: I just found FourFive's post with part numbers. Thanks.

Sounds exactly like my issue. I think I remember you having shrockworks skids too. If you do pull the transfer case skid and check to see if there is a spot worn in the paint/powdercoat from it hitting.

Also check and make sure that is the right mount for 4WD/Automatic. I don't remember what mine was exactly, but they are different depending on powertrain options.

Another issue I still have to fix with my skids is the gas tank skid hits the driveshaft when fully flexed. That shouldn't be happening with a set of $800+ aftermarket skids and a reasonable lift like I have (OEM LC Springs and Shocks...).

 

[JBurt]

I did see where there are several different mounts. I normally get my parts through Camelback and they are pretty good about checking parts against my vin.

I do have shrockworks skids. I haven't put the gas tank skid on yet. The T case skid didn't have the bolt holes in the correct location. They are about .75" off. I figured it would be easier to put holes in the right place than to go through shrockworks and deal with shipping. I got mine on the first production run and let them know so it wouldn't happen to someone else.

That's not good to hear about the gas tank skid. Definitely shouldn't happen with an expensive aftermarket part.

 

[Unner]

Yeah I've been meaning to email them about the skid. I installed it per the directions and it contacted so I flipped the bolts for slightly more clearance but it still hits...

 

[JBurt]

So I took a video of trying to move the tranny on top of the mount with a crowbar. It seems the rubber on the left side is separating. Is this much movement normal?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evJyY2Z9Yuw

 

[Scramble]

Yeah I've been meaning to email them about the skid. I installed it per the directions and it contacted so I flipped the bolts for slightly more clearance but it still hits...

Glad you got your clunk figured out. I had one for months & finally figured out it was my DS hitting the stock gas tank skid. It sounded like the clunk was coming from the front. That's why it took me so long to figure it out. I removed to skid & cut out a 7" X 4" section with the angle grinder. I haven't put it back on yet because I want to hit it with the wire wheel & some POR 15.

 

[Unner]

So I took a video of trying to move the tranny on top of the mount with a crowbar. It seems the rubber on the left side is separating. Is this much movement normal?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evJyY2Z9Yuw

Your mount looks shot with the way it is separating at the rubber blocks. I'd replace it. Takes less than an hour and costs like $70 at the dealer if you can get a discount like I do.

Glad you got your clunk figured out. I had one for months & finally figured out it was my DS hitting the stock gas tank skid. It sounded like the clunk was coming from the front. That's why it took me so long to figure it out. I removed to skid & cut out a 7" X 4" section with the angle grinder. I haven't put it back on yet because I want to hit it with the wire wheel & some POR 15.

Me too, it was driving me crazy.

 

[Rock_Rat]

I figured it out finally!

It was my transfer case skid plate hitting the lowest point on the transfer case...

Apparently the Shrockworks Skids are so tight and close that when the transmission and transfer case twist and move and the frame and such moves a little that they were making contact and rubbing. I pulled my skids last night to change those diff mount stoppers, some fluids, and the transfer case seal and decided to drive it before doing anything but removing the skids and the noise was GONE!

Such a stupid cause for such an annoying noise. I think the noise may have been getting worse as the transmission mount aged and allowed more movement so I ordered a new one today that should be here tuesday and I will replace then. I'll probably throw a washer or two above the transfer case skid to space it down just a bit and give enough clearance.

You could see where the bottom of the transfer case was hitting the skid and wore the powder coat off.

I wish I would have figured this out months ago when I started noticing the noise and researching/replacing parts... At least it's a simple fix.


Also, [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] , those bottom diff mount stoppers are only a molded washer, no rubber. I ordered them through my Toyota dealer and will be returning them because I don't want to replace a $12 washer for no reason. Just thought you may want to know.

Guess what I'm working on today...

 

[Unner]

Guess what I'm working on today...

I chased that problem for even longer. I replaced the transmission mount which was easy and cured the problem for a few weeks, then it came back. Then I pulled the transfer case skid and put the transmission/engine skid on top of it so the transfer case skid sat lower. Problem solved! Or so I thought...

Then I had another clunk, but this one sounded a little different. I was sick of messing with it so I left it for several months. Then last month I pulled my engine/transmission skid to change some fluids and noticed a bare spot rubbed on the skid from the steering rack cross member hitting it. Rearranging the skids took some of that clearance away so now they were hitting. I took some rubber we had laying around and glued it to the skid, and went to lowes and bought some 1" aluminum bar stock. I cut that to the length of the skids and drilled holes out for where they mount to space everything down evenly and not have to mess with lining up double stacked washers on a bunch of different holes. So far the noise is gone I believe. Or at least not as bad as it used to be.

Modifying vehicles is never as simple as it seems...