Low Voltage + P1135

Adamdmc

Adamdmc

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My voltage has been fluctuating from 14.2vdc down to 13.0vdc for a while and today it dropped to 11.6vdc and stayed between 11.6 and 12vdc for over 75 miles. That's when I noticed the P1135 code for A/F sensor heater. Is it possible that the alternator is good and the sensor is just drawing the voltage down? I don't know if this is going to get me the 150 miles back to the house. Thoughts and suggestions PLEASE!

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Yup. +1 on the alt shock. Brushes most likely done. You notice if you put your fan on high that it acts like you put it on low when you voltage is low.

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I'm guessing you're getting those readings from an OBDII device.

I'd use a multimeter on the battery to verify the readings.

Normally the actual voltage is approximately .5 volts lower than what the ECU shows.
 
alumarine said:
I'm guessing you're getting those readings from an OBDII device.

I'd use a multimeter on the battery to verify the readings.

Normally the actual voltage is approximately .5 volts lower than what the ECU shows.
Click to expand...


My scangauge uses the OBD 12v to show system voltage and its spot on. Same voltage as battery terminals.


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Ya'll are awesome! Sure enough it appears to be the brushes. Will address those as soon as I can. I happen to have a donor 4runner that I'm going to steal the alternator out of and test this afternoon. I made it home but not without some craziness. For any of you guys hating on the Lithium Ion booster packs, they are more handy than you can imagine. This one got me the last 15 miles to the house.
3314a6c6edda29c16c3f53345f2ae799.jpg


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the brushes are easy to do, and if were me, if I was taking another used alternator to slap in, I would either put new brushes in it first, or slap in the used, put brushes in original and swap back.
 
Adamdmc said:
Ya'll are awesome! Sure enough it appears to be the brushes. Will address those as soon as I can. I happen to have a donor 4runner that I'm going to steal the alternator out of and test this afternoon. I made it home but not without some craziness. For any of you guys hating on the Lithium Ion booster packs, they are more handy than you can imagine. This one got me the last 15 miles to the house.
3314a6c6edda29c16c3f53345f2ae799.jpg


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Click to expand...

I was thinking of getting one and keeping it the rig.. Glad to see they work . ;-)
 
3bears said:
the brushes are easy to do, and if were me, if I was taking another used alternator to slap in, I would either put new brushes in it first, or slap in the used, put brushes in original and swap back.
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I'm not sure if the one in the donor is a Denso, but the Denso with bad brushes will definitely be getting a refreshing. The ultimate goal is to completely rebuild engine and tranny from donor and swap them out and then rebuild current engine and tranny to have as a backup.

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19963.4lsr5 said:
I’m torn between a LIPO pack like he used or the larger gell cell like my friend uses for his garage and towing service.


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As someone who drives all the time and as many as 40 different vehicles a week, the NOCO is compact and light enough to just throw in a small backpack and always have with you. I don't have any experience with the larger ones so I won't speak to that option.

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wont effect most of you, but when they (jumpers) get down to real low temps, like -20, they go dead real fast or just dont work. Never thought of using the way the OP did to drive on to get home, nice thinking.
 
3bears said:
wont effect most of you, but when they (jumpers) get down to real low temps, like -20, they go dead real fast or just dont work. Never thought of using the way the OP did to drive on to get home, nice thinking.
Click to expand...
Just make sure that you do everything possible to limit what is using electricity. I even disabled the Daytime Running Lights. No radio, heater fan, and tried not to use turn signal any more than absolutely necessary. By the way, it was raining most of the way, thank GOD for Rainex! I figured that I was only going to get one shot at this, so make it count.

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Weather your spare Alt is a reman or not it’s still a Denso, buy a brush assembly from Toyota for the correct amp output and it’s good to go. I had mine the next day by 10am. 22 dollars.


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Ok, so I replaced the brushes with Toyota part that is linked on previously mentioned video. At first the alternator was putting out 14.2vdc then started fluctuating between 14.2 and 14.0vdc. Now it has dropped down to fluctuating between 13.6 and 13.8vdc all of this at idle. When driving it stays between 13.9 and 14.2vdc. Is it possible the the diode pack is going?

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Adamdmc said:
Ok, so I replaced the brushes with Toyota part that is linked on previously mentioned video. At first the alternator was putting out 14.2vdc then started fluctuating between 14.2 and 14.0vdc. Now it has dropped down to fluctuating between 13.6 and 13.8vdc all of this at idle. When driving it stays between 13.9 and 14.2vdc. Is it possible the the diode pack is going?

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The voltage regulator it temp compensated. The warmer the regulator the lower the charge voltage. 13.6 to 14.3 is normal for a Denso


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