4Runner4TW
New member
Just wanted to quickly share my experience changing the lower A arm bushings on my 1999 4Runner with 206,XXX miles. I had a hard time finding information so I wanted to add what I experienced and some links that really helped.
Great simple write up with an awesome tip to use a bottle jack to press out the old bushings. Be aware the pop out with some force!
Front Suspension Rebuild on 3rd Gen - YotaTech Forums
This write up covers pretty much everything. However instead of changing bushings this person bought new lower and upper a arms. Less work but much more expensive.
Tacoma Suspension - Control Arms
Torque Specs
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/129548-torque-specs.html
1. My symptoms were a very loud squeak from the front; especially over speed bumps. Also when cold outside and taking a corner (for me I drive through 10 traffic circles to get to work) the front end would produce a loud clunk.
I finally got down in front of the truck while my fiance let off then quickly hit the brake. From there I saw lots of movement. Here is a video of the exact noise I heard from mine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRX3BmKKpDs
2. Replace one, replace them all! I started my "restoration project" on my 4Runner this winter in order to prep the truck for the up coming off road season. I do a lot of forest road driving for camping and photography.
Chances are if your lower A arm bushings are shot then other will be too. This is such an involved task that its worth it to change out other components while in there. Here is a list of what I did.
Lower A arm bushings (OEM)
Sway bar bushing (Aftermarket)
Sway bar end links (Aftermarket)
Lower shock mount bushing (OEM)
Lower ball joint (OEM)
Upper ball joint (OEM)
Steering rack bushings (I had to replace my entire rack and pinon due to damage from a trail) (Aftermarket)
Tie rods (Aftermarket, Only 8 months old and already has a tear in them)
I bought upper A arm bushings but I could not get the bolt lose and I ran out of day light. Mine luckily are still in good condition, but I have the bushings for a later time.
3. This is a very involved job, but not impossible. However the proper tools do help. I had the help of a friend who had a 20 ton Harbor Freight press. Also be prepared to fight the lower cam sleeves out. 3 of the 4 for mine came right out but the fourth was seized to the bushing. It took 45 minutes of PB Blaster and constant moving to finally get it out. DO NOT USE A HAMMER! My buddy tried this and ended up bending the end of the cam sleeve just a bit. Luckily it was very little and easy to fix.
4. Quick tips
A) Bottle jack to press out old A Arm bushings. When you do this the A arm will flex. I read somewhere that when they did this it warped their A arm and they had a hard time putting it back on the truck. If you have a way to brace the A arm to keep it from flexing then it will help and is a piece of mind.
B) You will need to remove all 4 bolts holding the rack on in order to get the bolts out of the lower a arm. It takes some time but you can wiggle out the bolt and cam sleeve without removing the dust cover on the rack.
C) PB Blaster is your friend
D) We removed the brake caliper and loosened the dust shield for easier access.
E) I also removed the spindle to install the upper ball joint since we had the press. Axle nut is a 35mm.
End Result:
The truck feels awesome. I'm sure this is about what it felt like to drive it brand new off the show room floor. No more squeaks, rattles, or clunks. Handles beautifully. Steering wheel stays perfectly straight even with imperfections on the road. Handling has much improved. Can't wait to get it back on the trail!
Hope this was helpful. I really just wanted to get as much information into one thread to help out future people with their front end. Please add if you have anything!
Great simple write up with an awesome tip to use a bottle jack to press out the old bushings. Be aware the pop out with some force!
Front Suspension Rebuild on 3rd Gen - YotaTech Forums
This write up covers pretty much everything. However instead of changing bushings this person bought new lower and upper a arms. Less work but much more expensive.
Tacoma Suspension - Control Arms
Torque Specs
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/129548-torque-specs.html
1. My symptoms were a very loud squeak from the front; especially over speed bumps. Also when cold outside and taking a corner (for me I drive through 10 traffic circles to get to work) the front end would produce a loud clunk.
I finally got down in front of the truck while my fiance let off then quickly hit the brake. From there I saw lots of movement. Here is a video of the exact noise I heard from mine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRX3BmKKpDs
2. Replace one, replace them all! I started my "restoration project" on my 4Runner this winter in order to prep the truck for the up coming off road season. I do a lot of forest road driving for camping and photography.
Chances are if your lower A arm bushings are shot then other will be too. This is such an involved task that its worth it to change out other components while in there. Here is a list of what I did.
Lower A arm bushings (OEM)
Sway bar bushing (Aftermarket)
Sway bar end links (Aftermarket)
Lower shock mount bushing (OEM)
Lower ball joint (OEM)
Upper ball joint (OEM)
Steering rack bushings (I had to replace my entire rack and pinon due to damage from a trail) (Aftermarket)
Tie rods (Aftermarket, Only 8 months old and already has a tear in them)
I bought upper A arm bushings but I could not get the bolt lose and I ran out of day light. Mine luckily are still in good condition, but I have the bushings for a later time.
3. This is a very involved job, but not impossible. However the proper tools do help. I had the help of a friend who had a 20 ton Harbor Freight press. Also be prepared to fight the lower cam sleeves out. 3 of the 4 for mine came right out but the fourth was seized to the bushing. It took 45 minutes of PB Blaster and constant moving to finally get it out. DO NOT USE A HAMMER! My buddy tried this and ended up bending the end of the cam sleeve just a bit. Luckily it was very little and easy to fix.
4. Quick tips
A) Bottle jack to press out old A Arm bushings. When you do this the A arm will flex. I read somewhere that when they did this it warped their A arm and they had a hard time putting it back on the truck. If you have a way to brace the A arm to keep it from flexing then it will help and is a piece of mind.
B) You will need to remove all 4 bolts holding the rack on in order to get the bolts out of the lower a arm. It takes some time but you can wiggle out the bolt and cam sleeve without removing the dust cover on the rack.
C) PB Blaster is your friend
D) We removed the brake caliper and loosened the dust shield for easier access.
E) I also removed the spindle to install the upper ball joint since we had the press. Axle nut is a 35mm.
End Result:
The truck feels awesome. I'm sure this is about what it felt like to drive it brand new off the show room floor. No more squeaks, rattles, or clunks. Handles beautifully. Steering wheel stays perfectly straight even with imperfections on the road. Handling has much improved. Can't wait to get it back on the trail!
Hope this was helpful. I really just wanted to get as much information into one thread to help out future people with their front end. Please add if you have anything!
