Lower ball joint failure???

RogueOne

New member
What causes the lower ball joints to fail? Seeing these recent threads has got me a little nervous. I have a 2001 T4R Sport with 109k on it. Should I replace them soon? Only mods I have is a toytec boss coil over lift up front. Help put my mind at ease.

Sean
 
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They can fail without wear. It's not like most where the rubber gets bad dry up and they get play. Mine had zero play and failed. Without lift you should be fine but the lift puts more stress on them. My opinion they should be done every 100k miles. That's just me. Mine failed at 200k and my buddy at 160k. Right after lift installs.
 
Isn't there a recall on the 2001 lower ball joints? You might want to call your local dealer and see if they will do the recall still.
 
Its virtually impossible to inspect them for wear. The spring is pushing the stud down and the knuckle is pushing up for intents and purposes. The LBJ is always experiencing tension and give the impression the joint is tight. That is until the stud pops out, then its not tight anymore. Its best to replace them at 100,000 miles. Its a wearing part, treat it as such. They dont fail safe.

Newer designed vehicles have reversed the stud so it points up, not down.

Oh hell, roll the dice. Whats the worst that could happen?

:rip:
 
I did all 4 of mine with new OEM about a year ago (upper and lower, uppers mostly for good measure but they were a little tired looking) and was amazed how much better the thing drove. Still, I know this is a bit OT but has any third party made a beefier ball joint that is superior to OEM? Sort of like the "Bilstein of ball joints" or something?

BTW OP, if I had a lift and over 100k miles, you can bet I'd change them. Even on my rig which had about 160k on the originals at the time, a stock rig with essentially 100% highway miles mind you, they lowers hadn't "failed" yet, but once I got them off I certainly was happy they were no longer in there. It's a poor design from the factory unfortunately.
 
When I replaced mine on my '97 they had 175k miles on them. They were the original balljoints. They didn't have any play in them either. The boots cracked and started leaking grease so that was my queue. I replaced them with OEM and would suggest anything else. I had a '99 tacoma (same front suspension at 3rd gens) and got moogs and one failed on me after about 8k miles. Was not a fun experience and was not cheap either.
 
I have almost 200k on the 4runner I roll in with no sign they have ever been replaced. Didn't check if they needed it or not, but ordered new ones last week because why risk it?
 
can someone link me to a good place to buy some. Also as stated above has anyone made better ones then oem?

I did a lot of research for the last month on where to buy and the cheapest was camelbacktoyota.com

They had comparable prices, but the thing that put them over the top was the free shipping over $150. Haven't read anything about better than OEM other than using Tundra (or maybe it was Tacoma?) LBJ's.
 
You can use Tacoma ones but you also have to swap out your tie rod ends. The Tacoma ones are the exact same design just a bigger ball, which in my opinion doesn't do much because they are just as prone to failing in the exact same way as ours. You lose a bit from your turning radius when you put Taco LBJs and TREs as well.
 
My truck is at 104,000. I got a price from the dealer for $135 each. Toyota has the MSRP for, I think, $122. Toyota Dallas quoted $89.

I will order mine this week.

BTW, the bolts are not included. Takes 4 per part. I am going to get new OEM bolts as well.
 
My truck is at 104,000. I got a price from the dealer for $135 each. Toyota has the MSRP for, I think, $122. Toyota Dallas quoted $89.

I will order mine this week.

BTW, the bolts are not included. Takes 4 per part. I am going to get new OEM bolts as well.

can you order online from toyota dallas?
 
can you order online from toyota dallas?

Oh man... Go to their website and see for yourself. You gotta put at least a tiny bit of effort into it.

Do as 7echo did and buy all new bolts too. Shops over-torque chassis bolts, so the ones that are on their are probably stretched out more than they should be. Even at $2 each, there's only 8 and it's well worth the money to get new ones when you're spending well over $100 for the components
 
Think of a ball joint in the simplest sense. It's a ball sitting in a joint. Like your hip socket.

Two major factors can make a ball joint fail:

1) The ball starts to disintegrate because dirt and water got into it and the socket OR
2) The external assembly has been stressed due to time, abuse, a curb or whatever.

#1 is probably the cause in 90% or more of the failures.

Ball joints are really easy to check if you have one that is failing, and the procedure has remained pretty much the same for a long, long time regardless of the vehicle. A ball joint is a ball joint.

1) Lift the vehicle up on the A arm as close as you can get to the ball joint with about 2" of daylight under the tire.

2) Take a tire iron or breaker bar and put it under the tire and lift up and down.

If the joint is heading south you will most definitely hear it. This procedure is also in the 4Runner service manual. It's pretty simple.

I have read about and heard of ball joints that people pushed way too long and if you are wondering what happens (and it has happened to some guys on this site too) basically your front wheel assembly falls out from under the truck.

Not something you want to happen at 5 mph much less 65 mph.

Edit: I should add I posted this before I read the link posted prior (and it appears to be a good one).
 

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