Lower Ball Joint Question

4Runner4TW

New member
I just ordered LBJ's from Toyota and I was wondering if there is anything else I need to buy? I've looked through all the threads and my biggest question are there any fittings I need to grease when installing them. Also any tips would help! First time doing something like this..

I've got a 99 4Runner, 4wd, with 157,000 miles.

Thanks!
Chrys
 
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I just ordered LBJ's from Toyota and I was wondering if there is anything else I need to buy? I've looked through all the threads and my biggest question are there any fittings I need to grease when installing them. Also any tips would help! First time doing something like this..

I've got a 99 4Runner, 4wd, with 157,000 miles.

Thanks!
Chrys

Buy the 8 bolts (Dont forget BLUE Locktite) and you may need to rent a puller to separate the outer tierod from the balljoint. You can buy the puller from autozone for around $10.

If the balljoint gets stuck in the lower control arm, you can either use a puller for that as well or do what I did and use a floor jack. The floor jack had a cup shape that encased the bolt perfectly. Use the jack to put pressure on the bolt. It may just pop out but if not then keep pressure on it and smack the Lower arm with a BFH. I lifted the truck up enough on that bolt that the frame was just a hair off the jack stands, smacked the arm with the hammer a few times and it popped out.

Also make sure you use jackstands on the frame for safety and so you can fully manipulate the front suspension. I typically throw my tires under the truck near where I work but not in the way, of course, for the extra assurance in case the vehicle falls off the jack stands.

Use this as a guide http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/103217-lower-ball-joint-removal-installation.html
 
Last edited:
Great instructions ^^^

If you can't get the TRE separated from the ball joint while using the puller or fork, loosen the 4 bolts on the ball joint and it should come right off with the next whack of the hammer.
 
Definitely try to avoid hitting the TRE out. It normal mushrooms the threads. Use a TRE puller and it should work wonders.
 
I used a pickle fork and thats it. its a super easy job on these. I got the pickle fork at harbor freight for under $10 and it went through a beating when i did my inner and outer TRE and LBJ this past week.
 
^^^^^But I think he is trying to save his tierod ends. And my pickle fork broke off when I used it on the balljoint....hopefully the OP won't have the same issues as I did.
 
TRE isn't that expensive. He should just change them at the same time. He is going to need an alignment anyway
 
TRE isn't that expensive. He should just change them at the same time. He is going to need an alignment anyway

If i were to do this i would have to wait another month to afford those (all my money goes to my stupid student loans). Do you guys recommend waiting the month and do these too? Right now the ball joints are fine (from what i can tell) i just want to get it done because of the age, millage, and i do 90% of my driving on highways.
 
search the site to see how to check your LBJ's, if there is no play then dont change them. I would do as many front end steering component parts at the same time as you can just cause it is easier that way. as far as Tie rods, i did my driver side without even jacking it up.
 
Don't forget to rent a torque wrench if you don't have one. Torque it to specs and the castle nut lines up perfect. Also PB blast the night before should make the job easier.
 
If i were to do this i would have to wait another month to afford those (all my money goes to my stupid student loans). Do you guys recommend waiting the month and do these too? Right now the ball joints are fine (from what i can tell) i just want to get it done because of the age, millage, and i do 90% of my driving on highways.

I did all mine at once but id go ahead with the lower balljoint now. Since you're getting new TRE in a month I wouldnt worry if I messed up the rubber boot just make sure you buy them the next month for sure.

More than likely they aren't going to fail within the month but it sure as hell would suck if they did and you had brand new balljoints sitting at your house.
 
Sorry last question. I am going with OEM Lower ball Joints. Do i need to do the same with inner and outer tie rods? I found them for WAY cheaper online.I see a lot of people go with NAPA for these?

Thanks guys! Just trying to make the truck safe.
 
Sorry last question. I am going with OEM Lower ball Joints. Do i need to do the same with inner and outer tie rods? I found them for WAY cheaper online.I see a lot of people go with NAPA for these?

Thanks guys! Just trying to make the truck safe.

I ended up getting Napa inners and OEM outers. OEM inners were $127 vs. Napa 555s @ $95. The OEM outers were only $20 more at $45 vs Napa at $35.
 
The inners I took off of mine were 555's. stock ones. One was still pretty good with 187k on it. I kept it for spare.
 

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