Lower Ball Joint Removal and Installation

It felt like I was able to freely push it all the way up to the tie rod boot

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That explains it. That should not happen. It never occurred to me it COULD happen.

I take back all I said. I misunderstood what was happening. I just took my brand new OEM LBJ and tried to insert my old 180k-on-it TRE stud in its hole. It would not go at all past the threaded part. It would definitely cinch up tight if I forced it in which I will eventually do to the new ones I have. This is the same stem that stood up to the massive torque I referred to above.

So I got to figure you have the wrong LBJ or your TRE stem is worn somehow. How do you feel about changing to new TREs at this point like I'm doing? They are a wear part.

If a new TRE and a new LBJ are sloppy like that, then you are positive one of them is wrong. And if it solves your problem then you have nice new TREs. Are you doing both sides?
 
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That explains it. That should not happen.

I take back all I said. I misunderstood what was happening. I just took my brand new OEM LBJ and tried to insert my old 180k on it TRE stud in its hole. It would not go at all past the threaded part. It would definitely cinch up tight if I forced it in which I will eventually do to the new ones I have.

So I got to figure you have the wrong LBJ or your TRE stem is worn somehow. How do you feel about changing to new TREs at this point like I'm doing? They are a wear part.
That's what I was thinking. I will try putting pressure on it tomorrow. If I go the tie rod replacement route, I will need to do outer and inner. I think my inner tie rod is worn and the two nuts look like they have melded into 1 object.

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It would be nice if I could just put some washers on it and have it last until Christmas when I make my next trip home. I save a ton of money on import taxes by bringing parts in my luggage.

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It felt like I was able to freely push it all the way up to the tie rod boot

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If the tie rod was tight in the old LBJ knuckle, it should be fine in the new one. Unless there was serious corrosion issues, I don't know how the spindle on that outer tie rod could wear enough to cause the issue you are experiencing.

What are the part numbers for the LBJs you purchased?
 
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Same ones I ordered from Camelback. I agree with [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION], I don't know how this could happen. Any chance they shipped the wrong LBJ? Can you check the packaging?
 
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I even double checked the packages as I read about someone receiving sequoia LBJ by accident

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Heh, you answered my question before I edited it into my post.

I would say the washers would probably be good for a few months, especially in St Kitts. You ain't driving the Moab. The concern would not be the thing coming loose but maybe wallowing out the hole on your nice new LBJ. If you get a vibration in the steering wheel, you'll know it ain't working.
 
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Heh, you answered my question before I edited it into my post.

I would say the washers would probably be good for a few months, especially in St Kitts. You ain't driving the Moab. The concern would not be the thing coming loose but maybe wallowing out the hole on your nice new LBJ. If you get a vibration in the steering wheel, you'll know it ain't working.

Maybe I should over torque a little since Im probably going to replace the tie rods anyway?
 
I even double checked the packages as I read about someone receiving sequoia LBJ by accident

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That was me! What a pain it was until figured it out as the part numbers are almost the same and looking at the LBJ you would not be able to see a difference. That's the problem with these LBJ's for Toyotas, they all look exactly the same or mine did anyway. Camelback was great however and sent me the right one overnight.

Your problem is exactly the opposite if I read your post correctly what was happening to mine. The OTRE stud went in to far and yours in not going in far enough it sounds like. You can try putting some weight on it but is that does not work then there is either something wrong with the LBJ or I guess maybe the threads or castle nut on the OTRE. Get a new castle nut for the OTRE and see if that fixes it is what I would do.
Hope you figure it out. Can be frustrating for sure.
 
That was me! What a pain it was until figured it out as the part numbers are almost the same and looking at the LBJ you would not be able to see a difference. That's the problem with these LBJ's for Toyotas, they all look exactly the same or mine did anyway. Camelback was great however and sent me the right one overnight.

Your problem is exactly the opposite if I read your post correctly what was happening to mine. The OTRE stud went in to far and yours in not going in far enough it sounds like. You can try putting some weight on it but is that does not work then there is either something wrong with the LBJ or I guess maybe the threads or castle nut on the OTRE. Get a new castle nut for the OTRE and see if that fixes it is what I would do.
Hope you figure it out. Can be frustrating for sure.

I think you might have read it wrong. The way I understand it, he's having the exact same problem as you had. The spindle of the tie rod is sliding too deeply into the knuckle of the LBJ and the castle nut is bottoming out at the end of threads leaving a gap between the castle nut and the knuckle.

Is that right OP? If so, I think you probably did get the wrong LBJs. If you have a caliper measuring tool, measure the inner diameter of the knuckle the outer tie rod goes into on the LBJ and compare it to one of the ones you replaced. I'm suspecting there's going to be a difference.
 
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I think you might have read it wrong. The way I understand it, he's having the exact same problem as you had. The spindle of the tie rod is sliding too deeply into the knuckle of the LBJ and the castle nut is bottoming out at the end of threads leaving a gap between the castle nut and the knuckle.

Is that right OP? If so, I think you probably did get the wrong LBJs. If you have a caliper measuring tool, measure the inner diameter of the knuckle the outer tie rod goes into on the LBJ and compare it to one of the ones you replaced. I'm suspecting there's going to be a difference.

Ok well then yes I stand corrected and yes that is exactly what was happening to mine. If you can do what Tim suggested that would tell you for sure as it sounds like you have the wrong LBJ even though it looks identical.
 
If I order new Inner and Outer Tie Rods, what other parts would I need to order with them?

Here is what I ordered to do mine :
Part #
4504639335 outer tie rod 4-Runner Right 1 $48.20
4504739215 outer tie rod 4-Runner Left 1 $48.20

I bought aftermarket ITRE as the Toyota ones are really expensive and from what I read the general consensus is that you can use aftermarket ITRE as there is less movement and likely will last a very long time and most offer lifetime warranty. I purchased mine from the local parts store for around $45 each so that saved me about $160 as OEM run around $125 or so each. Here is a write-up on this question asked here on our forum. Good information to consider and make a informed decision.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/177294-how-important-oem-when-comes-inner-tie-rod.html

Other then that just get a big wrench for the ITRE or I used a large Pipe wrench to loosen mine which worked pretty well.
 
I think you might have read it wrong. The way I understand it, he's having the exact same problem as you had. The spindle of the tie rod is sliding too deeply into the knuckle of the LBJ and the castle nut is bottoming out at the end of threads leaving a gap between the castle nut and the knuckle.

Is that right OP? If so, I think you probably did get the wrong LBJs. If you have a caliper measuring tool, measure the inner diameter of the knuckle the outer tie rod goes into on the LBJ and compare it to one of the ones you replaced. I'm suspecting there's going to be a difference.
It's definitely going in too far. I will have to take a closer look at the threads later today. I might upload of video just so you guys can get a visual of the lack of contact.

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Alright guys, I was able to take another look today. The castle nut did not bottom out like I thought. There was plenty of thread left on the bolt. I took jayrolla's advice and gave the tie rod a little love tap on the underside. It worked like a charm. The bolt bit right into the metal and held the tie rod ball joint in place for me to torque down. From my original viewing angle it was hard to see the threads. Once the bolt started spinning I though it had reached the end since the hole for the cotter pin lined up so perfectly with the bottom of the castle nut slot. After a little hammering I was able to torque the nut down and I'm good to go. I've only changed 1 LBJ out, I might do the other side tomorrow.

Thanks everyone

Pics because why not....

Before

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After


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Video for fun

https://youtu.be/aRXFKQA3pbY

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I had a similar problem once where the hole for the cotter pin was above the castle nut. The problem was cheap aftermarket tie rod ends.
 
Glad to hear you got it figured out. It is good to do these yourself and even though there are snags occasionally along the way its well worth it. Save you a ton of $ for sure and hopefully a new tool or 2! :rockon:
 
Glad to hear you got it figured out. It is good to do these yourself and even though there are snags occasionally along the way its well worth it. Save you a ton of $ for sure and hopefully a new tool or 2! :rockon:

For sure. I bought my first torque wrench for this job. Im having a lots of fun with it. So much better than tightening the lugnuts as hard as I can. :p
 

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