-----Lower Ball Joint- Uniball Conversion-----

MStudt said:
Companies that make/manufacture custom off road parts have a liability disclaimer for a reason. Hell, even I have one that was worded by a Business/Commercial lawyer for these exact reasons. Having your potential buyer sign off on a disclaimer stating that they assume all risk associated with said part is all you need. First off you have a legal binding document from your lawyer, and secondly the buyer has acknowledge the liability by signing off on your disclaimer.

Most companies like All-Pro, TC, and Camburg all have these disclaimers putting the liability on the end user. The only reason you need insurance if your making these is to cover yourself in case you're injured while making them. I've been down this road with another company that I worked for in the past. We went to court over someone trying to sue due to a product failure. Long story short is there was no way to prove any fault on our part. There's no way tell how the part was used, abused, or maintained. Without being able to document those points you can't point a finger.
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Correct, I am currently looking into an insurance policy for my shop as I may no longer be the only one working there. I will be coming up with a disclaimer for the product because unless I install it then I can't even be sure things were installed correctly including torque, thread lock was used, they cross threaded the top spacer, etc.. There are hundreds of factors.
 
Z-4runner said:
Correct, I am currently looking into an insurance policy for my shop as I may no longer be the only one working there. I will be coming up with a disclaimer for the product because unless I install it then I can't even be sure things were installed correctly including torque, thread lock was used, they cross threaded the top spacer, etc.. There are hundreds of factors.
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Exactly! When you leave the install in the end users hands things are out of your control. When things fail a lot of people want to point fingers rather than figuring out what really happened.
 
lol after the last few posts, I'm thinking nobb or Jeremy have never seen a uinball in person and don't how they actually work, or mount into the cup, or how strong they actually are. I'm also pretty sure neither have ever fabricated something other then maybe in a classroom on a computer screen.

Z, If my 4runner was going to be anything more then just my stockish daily driver, I would be all over these. But saying that, I do have a pair of I believe to be OEM Toyota LBJs I removed today. I'm up in the high desert so not too far away. If you are interested, they are yours.

Also Z, if you havent yet, I would also look into doing these for the tacoma balljoints. I'm sure those guys would be happy to see this option out there too.
 
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I just came from death valley and its nasty, nasty washboard/corrugated roads so, I am all about not breaking down in middle of nowhere...

This is great!! I am looking forward to your long run testing results.
 
Twisted Sid said:
lol after the last few posts, I'm thinking nobb or Jeremy have never seen a uinball in person and don't how they actually work, or mount into the cup, or how strong they actually are. I'm also pretty sure neither have ever fabricated something other then maybe in a classroom on a computer screen.

Z, If my 4runner was going to be anything more then just my stockish daily driver, I would be all over these. But saying that, I do have a pair of I believe to be OEM Toyota LBJs I removed today. I'm up in the high desert so not too far away. If you are interested, they are yours.

Also Z, if you havent yet, I would also look into doing these for the tacoma balljoints. I'm sure those guys would be happy to see this option out there too.
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My cousin has a tacoma so once I've got the 4runner conversion done and all the testing done I will do those next. I believe the they are the same part though, but haven't look yet.
 
They're interchangeable but different. Main difference is steering stops. 4runner has more range of motion.
 
Z-4runner said:
Well as long as I have the core from the tacoma then it should work, as long as the taper is the same between the two.
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Come to think of it, I think the taper probably is different. You need the outer tie rod and from the Tacoma as well.
 
Z-4runner said:
Correct, I am currently looking into an insurance policy for my shop as I may no longer be the only one working there. I will be coming up with a disclaimer for the product because unless I install it then I can't even be sure things were installed correctly including torque, thread lock was used, they cross threaded the top spacer, etc.. There are hundreds of factors.
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I think all you have to say is off road use only, not intended for street/highway use?
What if said person is a certified technician/mechanic. Would that work out?
 
frm_808 said:
I think all you have to say is off road use only, not intended for street/highway use?
What if said person is a certified technician/mechanic. Would that work out?
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It's will all be in the disclaimer. Even if a mechanic installed them I still don't know if they did it the way I intended. What I meant is that I need something to cover me from people who may install wrong and cause a failure.
 
Not a 3rd gen owner but it's always good to see new developments being done.

What's the clearance around the top end between taper and bolts? Two ways you could get that top weatherproof - a piece of deeply stamped aluminum adhered over the head with high quality silicone, mold R&D and press required upfront but quick and easy after that.

No upfront but a few more steps would be a piece of high quality flexible flashing from a roofing/industrial supply house, like Firestone Formflash (nothing they sell at Home Depot!). Cut out the circle size you need, remove factory release barrier, cut out a smaller circle of a non-adhesive, non-releasing barrier like 6 mil plastic or maybe even just rub some oil on it and stick to middle of flashing so uniball head doesn't stick, apply primer around the head outside the taper articulation zone, let dry, and press edge of flashing into place around cup. Lap sealant the edges if you have room. Once you get the circle templates would take maybe 10 minutes/ball.
 
jbtvt said:
Not a 3rd gen owner but it's always good to see new developments being done.

What's the clearance around the top end between taper and bolts? Two ways you could get that top weatherproof - a piece of deeply stamped aluminum adhered over the head with high quality silicone, mold R&D and press required upfront but quick and easy after that.

No upfront but a few more steps would be a piece of high quality flexible flashing from a roofing/industrial supply house, like Firestone Formflash (nothing they sell at Home Depot!). Cut out the circle size you need, remove factory release barrier, cut out a smaller circle of a non-adhesive, non-releasing barrier like 6 mil plastic or maybe even just rub some oil on it and stick to middle of flashing so uniball head doesn't stick, apply primer around the head outside the taper articulation zone, let dry, and press edge of flashing into place around cup. Lap sealant the edges if you have room. Once you get the circle templates would take maybe 10 minutes/ball.
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So I get the first step and have been modeling a stamp to press a piece of aluminum for the top. As far as the flash molding I gotta be frank, you lost me haha.
 
I'll slap them on my rig and do some testing for you. In Alabama - no snow/salt worries.

Those welds are downright delicious!||

Sub'd.
 
They look great! Some of you actually think it was welded with the uniball installed? Yet you know so much about what is not being done right. Heat treat is not the problem with the weld and heat affected zone...Its annealing that is needed at times...not heat treat. The welded area is harder thaan the rest of the material and can crack, so annealing is a heat process, but also a COOLING process that makes the welded area more consistant to the rest of the material
BTW z-4runner I have some oem cores that were going in the scrap pile
 
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