I've spent the better part of the day trying to remove my lower control arms. The cam bolt sleeves are seized to the inside of the bushings. I've tried a BFG, bottle jack, sawzall, torch and so far they have not budged a millimeter. I've got another set of LCA's with Whiteline bushings ready to go in so I don't care if I have to destroy these in the process. Any ideas I haven't thought of yet?
Lower control arm removal issues
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mtbtim
Elite Member
Sorry to disagree, but PB Blaster ain't going to do shit when these cam adjusters are really rusted in there. These things can get seriously welded in there and your only choice is to cut them out. [MENTION=144752]MarkamisPrime[/MENTION], [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did LCA bushings for a member visiting from Colorado and both passenger side bushings were frozen. We pounded on those f*ckers and they wouldn't budge and this was after the guy PB Blasted them for a couple days in advance.
I had to go to the local Home Depot and by myself a reciprocating saw. Since I already owned other Milwaukee M12 tools, I bought the little saw they sell. It's not super powerful but it got the job done. You need to use new metal blades. I used 2 blades per bushing - one for each side. You have to cut the the cam adjuster sleeve on each side of the bushing to get the LCA free of the frame.
Get yourself some fresh metal blades from your neighborhood hardware store and go back at it with the Sawzall. Trust me, you may have lost the battle but YOU WILL win the war. It's tiring cutting those sleeves but it can be done. If you find you don't have enough room to get the blade in on one side or another, just grab a prybar and force enough of a gap so you can get the blade between the frame and bushing.
In case you haven't seen our video on this repair, here it is - In this video, we didn't have to do any cutting luckily.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kmaZNBp1gZM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I had to go to the local Home Depot and by myself a reciprocating saw. Since I already owned other Milwaukee M12 tools, I bought the little saw they sell. It's not super powerful but it got the job done. You need to use new metal blades. I used 2 blades per bushing - one for each side. You have to cut the the cam adjuster sleeve on each side of the bushing to get the LCA free of the frame.
Get yourself some fresh metal blades from your neighborhood hardware store and go back at it with the Sawzall. Trust me, you may have lost the battle but YOU WILL win the war. It's tiring cutting those sleeves but it can be done. If you find you don't have enough room to get the blade in on one side or another, just grab a prybar and force enough of a gap so you can get the blade between the frame and bushing.
In case you haven't seen our video on this repair, here it is - In this video, we didn't have to do any cutting luckily.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kmaZNBp1gZM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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MarkamisPrime
New member
What Tim said.
mtbtim
Elite Member
You nailed it Brian. That was my exact thinking and I did just that when I helped do this job for the second time around. The first time, since we had no problem getting them out, I don't think we lubed them up with anti-sieze and I wish we had done that.
infamousRNR
Senior Member
Dude... like Joey Gladstone says from Full House "cut, it, out"
The video we made shows an easy removal... but like Tim & Mark said.
CUT THAT MUTHA F*CkER out of its shelter. Seriously Mark & I slammed on that thing while Tim was at the store buying a reciprocating saw.
Once we started cutting it out, the repair was back on track time wise & my ears stopped ringing from banging on that thing with a hammer!
JayRolla
New member
OP you need to cut it out. Forget any metal blade and only buy Diablo Carbide tipped blades from home depot. Cut mine out like butter. Diablo 9 in. 8 tpi Steel Demon Carbide-Tipped Thick Metal Cutting Reciprocating Saw Blade DS0908CF at The Home Depot - Mobile
SPC also makes a Toyota cam removal tool.https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sps-40915
To avoid seizing cam shafts you can go with SPC cam bolts and sleeves. They have plastic sleeves so they can never seize. Just make sure during installation to install the bolt nuts toward inside of arms so they can be properly torqued. SPC Performance 25430 Caster/Camber Bolt Kit | eBay
SPC also makes a Toyota cam removal tool.https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sps-40915
To avoid seizing cam shafts you can go with SPC cam bolts and sleeves. They have plastic sleeves so they can never seize. Just make sure during installation to install the bolt nuts toward inside of arms so they can be properly torqued. SPC Performance 25430 Caster/Camber Bolt Kit | eBay
Thanks guys. I'll keep at it with a better blade. I was cursing you [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] because I watched your video as prep and yours practically fell out, lol.
Thanks [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] I'll grab those Diablo blades in the morning and report back
Thanks [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] I'll grab those Diablo blades in the morning and report back
mtbtim
Elite Member
Somebody on our YouTube channel recommended those same blades. I bought some via Amazon but I didn't spring for the Carbide tipped ones. I got the regular Steel Demon Diablo blades: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CP5UZAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
mtbtim
Elite Member
I knew when Fred's cam adjusters came out without a fight, somebody would be cursing how lucky we were not to be in Rust Belt of the country.
JayRolla
New member
The carbide is like night and day. It cuts through hardened steel files like nothing.
JayRolla
New member
I have no rust. One side seized and other just fell out.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Well shit, I reckon I'll be buying some carbide tipped ones then.
You were right [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] that carbide tip Diablo blade made 4 cuts in less than 5 minutes. Now I was at least able to get that corner buttoned up with TC UCA, King coilover, new LBJ and the Whiteline bushings before the ice storm came in last night. I was too cold to put the TBU and SS lines on. Now I just have to wait for this weekend for more 60 degree weather to get more parts on.
A.Wilson013
New member
I hope your Whiteline bushings last longer than mine did. All the work getting the arms off, bushings out, and new bushings in. A whopping couple months later they started squeaking like mad and not long after that my trusty 4Runner would no longer track straight down the road.
Back in August I bit the bullet and just bought some brand new OEM lower control arms. I figured they lasted 185k from the factory, why change what works?
