Parker1938
Member
[MENTION=72341]NJshadow93[/MENTION], so you've decided to not use aftermarket LCA's and rebuild your OEM ones?
[MENTION=72341]NJshadow93[/MENTION], so you've decided to not use aftermarket LCA's and rebuild your OEM ones?
Do you have an update on what you ended up doing for your LCAs?
Aftermarket UCA will only provide you with additional caster.Curious also. I have frozen bolts also. Does replacing the bushing increase the chance of squeaking? Still trying to decide if i want to get LR UCA to add additional adjustment and leave the bottom ones alone. What do yall recommend?
Aftermarket UCA will only provide you with additional caster.
Over two years later, I'm back to this thread, now with 160k miles because both lower ball joints are leaking. Still haven't replaced them yet so it's definitely something to do soon. I would like to just replace the bushings and ball joints but I don't have a press so I'd need to bring them somewhere to have the ball joints pressed out/in.
Wow that's a crazy price. Hope they hold up. I might consider that but I'm not confident in the quality until I do some more research.
Good price for OEM
Haven't decided anything for sure yet. I don't have a press so I'd need to take them somewhere to have the press work done. The ball joints are $25 each for greasable Moog ones, then I'd also need new bushings and cam bolts. So I don't think I'd be saving any money. I'm just not sure I trust the quality of the cheaper units.
You could go borrow/rent a bearing press kit from an auto store it lots cheaper than paying someone else and pretty easy to do yourself. I just replaced my bushings on my LCA when I lifted my 4R. For the bushings I just used the bottle Jack and a little heat to finesse the bushings out. Once out they dropped right in and finish out with a lite tap to seat them. I used Moog bushings. That was about 5K ago now.
What was your total costHow to use a bottle jack for that? I also bought some LCA bushings and cam bolts. And I got some LR UCA. Now deciding whether to do it myself or shop it.
I guess you inherently gain the more camber adjustment because you have more caster to play with. Unless were talking about adjustable BJ UCAs?Actually, caster and camber.
This was referring to a few posts back when str3tlaw was writing about the LR UCA's. They have full adjustability of camber and caster.I guess you inherently gain the more camber adjustment because you have more caster to play with. Unless were talking about adjustable BJ UCAs?
Ah right, so adjustable ball joints. So if you want uniball, you get no adjustment.This was referring to a few posts back when str3tlaw was writing about the LR UCA's. They have full adjustability of camber and caster.
But with any other UCA's, you're right that they only add caster that is lost in the lifts.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Do you have an update on what you ended up doing for your LCAs?
What was your total cost
Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
No idea what NJShadow did , but I'll tell you what I did. I replaced my worn out OEM LCAs with the ones from 1A auto for the following reasons.
1. They're a fraction of the cost of OEM's (I think I paid 180 for the PAIR)
2. I can replace them at least 2 times over for the cost of what OEM LCA's are going for currently.
3. They're cheap enough to justify also purchasing replacement bushings/ball joints so that my worn out OEM LCA's can be rebuilt for use as spares, should the 1A Auto LCAs ever crap out. So I end up with minimal down-time changing them out, and a set of spares for the same cost, (probably less actually) than what it'd cost to buy replacement OEM.
Frankly, with the look and feel of the 1A auto LCA's I'll be surprised if I ever even need the spares.
Did they actually feel solid? I just about pulled the trigger on these a couple weeks ago.